BX1860 and 54"MMM Install Q's

[CHDinCT]

This past weekend, I installed my 54" MMM for the first time this season (did first few mows with the wheel horse). I have issues with the deck clearing the frame when trying to roll it under the tractor, so I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong. First off, I backed the tractor's rear wheels onto a 2x6 board to gain an extra 1.5 then used the FEL to raise the front wheels a few inches. When I go to roll the deck under the tractor, the screw down height adjustment bolt won't clear the bottom of the tractor frame (this is the bolt that adjusts how high the rear draft links lift or drop the deck). It looks like if I could roll the deck forward, it would clear where the frame depth is a little less, but I can't roll it forward since the mid deck roller hits the front tire. The MMM manual simply states to roll the deck under the tractor with the gauge wheels turned 90* from their normal position - no mention of any special procedure and no mention of raising the tractor using boards/FEL, etc.

I did notice there are two holes on the gauge wheel spindles at the 90* orientation and I was using the top holes, so I think ah ha!, just use the lower holes and I'd gain one or two inches of clearance. Wrong, when I drop the deck to the lower holes, it won't roll because the front fixed roller hits the garage floor. This makes no sense since this setting would seem useless, at least for the 54 MMM.

Eventually, I removed the left side height adjustment bolt entirely and rolled it under the tractor, then had to reinstall the bolt and readjust the deck side to side for level. I'm thinking this shouldn't be this hard especially with the extra clearance from the FEL and 2x6 board. I know the BX1860 has 24 tires vs. 26 of the BX2360/BX25, but still, according to the manual you should be able to just roll the deck right under the tractor. What am I missing? And what is the use of those lower gauge wheel holes? (The only other thought I had was today and that is to turn the front wheels one way or the other and maybe the deck can move forward enough to clear the frame, but moving it towards the front/back of the tractor is hard with the gauge wheels turned 90*.)

 

[kevinj]

This past weekend, I installed my 54" MMM for the first time this season (did first few mows with the wheel horse). I have issues with the deck clearing the frame when trying to roll it under the tractor, so I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong. First off, I backed the tractor's rear wheels onto a 2x6 board to gain an extra 1.5 then used the FEL to raise the front wheels a few inches. When I go to roll the deck under the tractor, the screw down height adjustment bolt won't clear the bottom of the tractor frame (this is the bolt that adjusts how high the rear draft links lift or drop the deck). It looks like if I could roll the deck forward, it would clear where the frame depth is a little less, but I can't roll it forward since the mid deck roller hits the front tire. The MMM manual simply states to roll the deck under the tractor with the gauge wheels turned 90* from their normal position - no mention of any special procedure and no mention of raising the tractor using boards/FEL, etc.

I did notice there are two holes on the gauge wheel spindles at the 90* orientation and I was using the top holes, so I think ah ha!, just use the lower holes and I'd gain one or two inches of clearance. Wrong, when I drop the deck to the lower holes, it won't roll because the front fixed roller hits the garage floor. This makes no sense since this setting would seem useless, at least for the 54 MMM.

Eventually, I removed the left side height adjustment bolt entirely and rolled it under the tractor, then had to reinstall the bolt and readjust the deck side to side for level. I'm thinking this shouldn't be this hard especially with the extra clearance from the FEL and 2x6 board. I know the BX1860 has 24 tires vs. 26 of the BX2360/BX25, but still, according to the manual you should be able to just roll the deck right under the tractor. What am I missing? And what is the use of those lower gauge wheel holes? (The only other thought I had was today and that is to turn the front wheels one way or the other and maybe the deck can move forward enough to clear the frame, but moving it towards the front/back of the tractor is hard with the gauge wheels turned 90*.)

I put front high and the rear low to allow them bolts to clear. When I get time I will drill new holes about 1/2" above the lower holes, same as I had done to the 1850.

 

[CHDinCT]

I put front high and the rear low to allow them bolts to clear. When I get time I will drill new holes about 1/2" above the lower holes, same as I had done to the 1850.

Kevin, thanks but I can't see how raising the rear up would reduce the clearance. And given you're drilling extra holes in the gauge wheel spindles, I guess you found the lower holes not too useful either. If Kubota moved those holes up a quarter inch, the deck would clear just fine. Guess I could use my floor jack to raise the back end some more, but it just shouldn't be this difficult.

 

[kevinj]

Kevin, thanks but I can't see how raising the rear up would reduce the clearance. And given you're drilling extra holes in the gauge wheel spindles, I guess you found the lower holes not too useful either. If Kubota moved those holes up a quarter inch, the deck would clear just fine. Guess I could use my floor jack to raise the back end some more, but it just shouldn't be this difficult.

Maybe I was not clear, the deck is low on the rear wheel spindles so that the front is high. In other words the deck is not level from front to back. So you use the low hole on the rear and the high holes on the front.

You are correct about Kubota and the holes. I sent this to Kubota 3 years back when I got the 1850 and not even a reply. My dealer was most grateful however.

 

[thavil]

Please don't take this wrong if I am way off but the only time this has happened to me was when I didn't have the 3ph in the top position. I have attempted to roll my 60" under my BX24 and would hit in the same spot if the 3ph wasn't fully raised. Also, I know on mine, I have to reposition the deck at different angles to get mine to go under the tractor. Mine can't just roll under the tractor without some jogging around unless I still have my FEL on and raise the front all the way up.

 

[CHDinCT]

Maybe I was not clear, the deck is low on the rear wheel spindles so that the front is high. In other words the deck is not level from front to back. So you use the low hole on the rear and the high holes on the front.

You are correct about Kubota and the holes. I sent this to Kubota 3 years back when I got the 1850 and not even a reply. My dealer was most grateful however.

Well duh! I get it now. Why didn't I think of that. Makes perfect sense. I thought you were talking about the tractor and not the deck. Anyway, thanks for breaking my brain cramp.

 

[CHDinCT]

Please don't take this wrong if I am way off but the only time this has happened to me was when I didn't have the 3ph in the top position. I have attempted to roll my 60" under my BX24 and would hit in the same spot if the 3ph wasn't fully raised. Also, I know on mine, I have to reposition the deck at different angles to get mine to go under the tractor. Mine can't just roll under the tractor without some jogging around unless I still have my FEL on and raise the front all the way up.

thavil, no problem. My draft links were all the way up and set at "TOP" but maybe with some adjusting they'd lift a little higher. Anyway, I think kevinj has a solution which might work for you too. See if when you use the lower holes on the rear deck wheels if it doesn't fit easier. Don't put all 4 wheels on the low hole like I did or it won't roll (at least for the 54" deck).

 

[kevinj]

Please don't take this wrong if I am way off but the only time this has happened to me was when I didn't have the 3ph in the top position. I have attempted to roll my 60" under my BX24 and would hit in the same spot if the 3ph wasn't fully raised. Also, I know on mine, I have to reposition the deck at different angles to get mine to go under the tractor. Mine can't just roll under the tractor without some jogging around unless I still have my FEL on and raise the front all the way up.

The 18 series is on shorter tires but uses the same deck, hence the problem.

 

[CHDinCT]

The 18 series is on shorter tires but uses the same deck, hence the problem.

Your probably right given no BX23xx or BX24/25 owners chimed in but driving up on a 2x6 should have equalized that difference. The 24" vs 26" wheels would account for 1" of difference in clearance. Just seems like a design flaw.

 

[kevinj]

Your probably right given no BX23xx or BX24/25 owners chimed in but driving up on a 2x6 should have equalized that difference. The 24" vs 26" wheels would account for 1" of difference in clearance. Just seems like a design flaw.

It is definatley a design flaw. I should not have to drill new holes to make it work properly. Next time I drop the deck I will make the required mods. It works OK the way I mentioned but I like the deck to be level