Flail Mower Bush hog or flail mower for field grass?

[Dustin]

We have been mowing about 10 acres of field grass (Timothy, Rye, vetch, garbage weeds, etc) for years. We have the opportunity to purchase an 88" Ford flail mower for $600-$700.

Compared to an 88" bush hog, is the same cutting width flail mower going to be able to handle 3-4' tall grass and weeds at the same speed? Will we have to go slower for the flail mower? Is the flail mower going to be able to handle the tall grass or are the belts just going to slip on it and everything get wrapped around the shaft?

We have some rocks that bang the heck out of the bush hog, so that's why we are considering changing what we cut it with.

Mowing with a 55HP, Kubota M5700 today.

 

[beenthere]

No good answer given the variables that you present. For some, the brush hog will work better and for others, the flail will work better. Depends on how low you want to mow (i.e. the rocks you mention), how often you mow (i.e. the length of the tall grass), and the time element. Plus some others to consider.

There will likely be much more maintenance with the flail, but there are variables there as well. Consider it expensive to keep 10 acres mowed, and I'm thinking a $700 mower won't go very far or last very long. Just a thought.

 

[LD1]

For 3-4' grass, I'd stick with the bushhog. I am no expert with a flail, but with my limited use, anything much above 20" and the bushhog can maintain a faster ground speed and leave a cleaner cut.

If there are any rental places near you, you may want to check into renting one for a day just to see if you will like it before you drop that kinda cash on one.

 

[greg_g]

It also depends upon what kind of knives are on the flail - and what kind of grass you're cutting. Some flails are set up for finish mowing, some for rough cut, and the extreme heavy duty have hammers instead of knives. I've got some patches of tall crabgrass that even bog down the bushhog (behind a 45hp tractor) to the point where I have to gear down and make 3-4 passes before it's all cut. Tall fescue ain't no joy either. Rocks ain't such a big deal, you might have to replace a flail knife once in a while. On my 74" Ford 917 flail, replacing a rough cut knife costs me about a buck and a half and 10 minutes labor.

I've got experience with both RCs and flails. So if you give a better description of what you're considering buying - and specifically what you're intending to mow with it - I can perhaps come up with a more definitive answer.

//greg//

 

[Dustin]

It's about 3-4 foot tall Timothy and Rye grass with some vetch (which will bog down the bush hog) and other weeds.

The flail I'm considering is a Ford 917 offset, though I couldn't say which flail knives it has. For the time and cost, I could replace them though.

When I catch a rock with the bush hog, the blades get banged up into the top of the mower deck. Eventually,they will cut through. That's why I've been considering the flail.

But the flail is only an option if I can mow at the same speed as the bush hog.

Does that info help any?

 

[LD1]

It's about 3-4 foot tall Timothy and Rye grass with some vetch (which will bog down the bush hog) and other weeds.

The flail I'm considering is a Ford 917 offset, though I couldn't say which flail knives it has. For the time and cost, I could replace them though.

When I catch a rock with the bush hog, the blades get banged up into the top of the mower deck. Eventually,they will cut through. That's why I've been considering the flail.

But the flail is only an option if I can mow at the same speed as the bush hog.

Does that info help any?

It sounds to me like something in the bushhog is worn out.

The blades shouldnt slap the deck if everything is good and tight.

I'd be looking at reparing or replacing the existing bushhog for 3-4' tall stuff.

 

[beenthere]

Don't understand why the blades should be getting up into the top of the mower deck. Are they loose on worn bolts?
What brand is the hog?

 

[greg_g]

It's about 3-4 foot tall Timothy and Rye grass with some vetch (which will bog down the bush hog) and other weeds.

The flail I'm considering is a Ford 917 offset, though I couldn't say which flail knives it has. For the time and cost, I could replace them though.

Yeah, your bush hog blades and/or pins are shot. When the holes and/or the pins get worn (egged-out) the blades can't stay on the horizontal anymore when they hit something solid.

As you've read, I have a 917 too, specifically the 74" 917H (heavy duty). I put the T-knives on mine for rough cutting (the single blades doubled on a hangar are for fine cut/finish mowing). My flail is as good as either of my rotary cutters, provided that I don't let the grass/weeds get out of control. But I still have to double or triple cut the few patches of crab grass that are left. That's stubborn stuff.

If your 3-4' grasses are thin, and you have the rough cut knives, you should be able to go through it. If not, get it bush hogged down once, then in the future try to get at it with the flail before it gets that long again. I usually try to tackle mine at about the 2' mark (or roughly knee high). Some of the thinner patches I can let go to the 3-4' mark.

//greg//

 

[dieselscout80]

Yeah, your bush hog blades and/or pins are shot. When the holes and/or the pins get worn (egged-out) the blades can't stay on the horizontal anymore when they hit something solid.

As you've read, I have a 917 too, specifically the 74" 917H (heavy duty). I put the T-knives on mine for rough cutting (the single blades doubled on a hangar are for fine cut/finish mowing). My flail is as good as either of my rotary cutters, provided that I don't let the grass/weeds get out of control. But I still have to double or triple cut the few patches of crab grass that are left. That's stubborn stuff.

If your 3-4' grasses are thin, and you have the rough cut knives, you should be able to go through it. If not, get it bush hogged down once, then in the future try to get at it with the flail before it gets that long again. I usually try to tackle mine at about the 2' mark (or roughly knee high). Some of the thinner patches I can let go to the 3-4' mark.

//greg//

Greg, are these the knifes that you are refering to for rough cutting?

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/118882-lets-talk-flail-mowers-98.html#post2070762

 

[leonz]

Greetings and salutations,

You have a scoop or shovel
type flail knive in the photo.

As long as you have sharp knives and
good bearings and belts you will not have
any issues with the Ford 917 flail mower
and parts are available.

As for power needs my father used a
John Deere 7 foot finish mower behind
behind a Ford Jubilee and it handled it fine
right to the sod.

About the rocks its only an issue with the
knife or knives that may come into contact with
the rock.

A rock that big should not be left for bait
anyway as broken rock is just as deadly as a
brush mower blade that may escape the mower
housing(there are plenty of stories on the forum
describing the damage and injuries that they
can cause.

And as mentioned by the previous esteemed members
you have major issues with that rotary cutter and need
to either repair it or replace it if you intend on keeping
a rotary cutter as you have worn bolts and or cutter
blades that have been left to long and should have
been replaced.


BUT once you see how nice the sod is after you go over
the ground at the lowest setting you will not go back to
a rotary cutter and the invasives will be much less of a
problem and the flail knives will destroy them very
effectively and keep them down.

The flail knives will effectively shred the brush it mows
and it it will shred it further if a second pass is desired
as the airfoil created sucks up the cuttings and slices
them again to very small clippings that compost quickly.


:thumbsup: