Bush hog blade sharpener device.

[Thomas]

Co- worker has ask if there was such device out there...I used TBN search and came up empty. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

I told him to use hand grinder and keep sharpening until he got the nack,but in return I got a /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Sooo,has anyone heard of such device or jig of some sort??

Thank you.

 

[Bird]

I've never heard of such a jig, Thomas, but that's not to say that such doesn't exist. Everyone I ever knew either used an angle grinder or a bench grinder, although I've also heard some say you should never sharpen them; only replace them when they need sharpening.

 

[BB_TX]

I have heard the same as Bird. But having said that, I do sharpen mine at least once a year and sometimes twice using an angle grinder. Been doing that on the rotary cutter I have for six years. I don't take off a lot of metal and it does not vibrate any more now than when new, so I don't think there is any problem with sharpening that way. I don't crawl under mine though. I stand it up on one side, lean it back against my FEL secured with a chain, and have at it. Much easier and cleaner than trying to reach under.

 

[Soundguy]

My ford 95X, Howse HD series, and KK ( red series ) manuals all state to inspect and sharpen blades when cut quality declines. And to replace bent or excessively chipped or nicked blades.

Soundguy

 

[redalrt]

Mine weighs 400 lbs. What machinery do you use to get it up on one side for cleaning and maintenance?

 

[em14]

I just lift it with chains attached to either the wheel (s) support or the three point hitch and the other end of the chain attached to the FEL. Cut a couple of saplings and plce them so they they safety the mower in case the FEL decides to drop.
Leo

 

[BB_TX]

My FEL. I pull my tractor up to one side with the FEL extending over the cutter and lower the FEL to just touching the cutter. I attach a chain very securely to the frame on the opposite side and to the hooks on my bucket. I hook one end of the chain to the rear wheel frame, run the chain up and hook it to the hook at one end of the bucket, then the other end, then back down and hook to the 3ph framework. Then I slowly lift the FEL raising the opposite side of the cutter until it is standing on its side on the ground. Then I back up just enough that the cutter is leaning back against the FEL bucket with the chains holding tight. There is very little danger of it falling and I can access the entire bottom with very little danger.

 

[Indydirtfarmer]

I have to grind bush hog blades every few days on the ones we keep running full-time. I have never used anything exept a 4-1/2" angle grinder. It takes some practice, but anyone can get the hang of it sooner or later. Bush hogs aren't as sensitive to "balance" as you might think. (Good, heavy duty ones anyway) Keep the blades close in size/weight, but they don't need to be exact. After repeated sharpenings, it's best to just replace. I keep 2 or 3 extra sets on hand. You absolutely DO NOT want to harden them beyond what the manufacturer has already done. In fact, I've found "softer" blades actually last longer. I'd MUCH rather grind out a big nick, that shatter one and send it flying....

 

[skipmarcy]

I agree with Indydirtfarmer, I just had to sharpen my blades today after a heavy 5 hours cutting. I've used my 4 1/2" angle grinder for years, the key to sharpening is not too get too shallow of an angle - keep the angle high, you're not sharpening a knife. With a higher angle, the blade will hold it's edge longer, less susceptible to deep dings etc. too. I've resharpened blades many, many times before replacing and I also agree that you will seldom throw a bushog out of balance by sharpening, not like a lawn mower. I shorten my toplink which will raise the rear of the cutter higher and use an automotive jackstand for a safety, then clamp a pair of visegrips to the end of the blade I'm working on and let it catch against the side of the bushog to hold the blade steady for me. Always use safety glasses too!!! I always look for any damages to the blades, especially cracks starting - like Indydirtfarmer says, they will shatter.

 

[thatguy]

One easy way to get to the blades is to put the tractor (w/ mounted rough mower) on a trailer. Then back up enough that the mower still rests on the trailer, but leave yourself enough overhang on the rear to reach the blades..

 

[Slamfire]

I just tip the cutter up on the end that is closest to the tractor. It is necessary to pull the end of the pto shaft out of the stub though. I set it down next to a sheet of plywood, tilted just slightly forward, and pull it up on the 3 point hitch frame with a 6' loggin' chain. Thread it through the uprights were the tip link hooks up, and hook it to the tail wheel. A little tug with the tractor and it comes right up. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[TonyV]

Thanks for some great advice Bill. I used my FEL today to set my 5' bush hog on its side and sharpened the blades using a 4 1/2 inch grinder. What an easy job that turned out to be. I knew the blades needed sharpening after spending 2 days out in a heavily overgrown field with it. Thanks again. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

...Tony

 

[poncho99]

I have an old bush hog that I tried too use for the first time and it just vibrated like crazy. I looked underneath to find that the 2 blades which are held in by 1 bolt each are loose. Are they supposed to be loose? I don't think they have been sharpened in 15 year as the cutting edge is round. Any help would be extreamly appreciated /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[BB_TX]

When you say loose, if you mean that they swivel on the bolt that is correct. Actually the bolt should be tight, but the blade allowed to swivel. They swivel so that if you hit a stump, large rock, or other heavy object, the blade will swing back instead of destroying itself or the cutter. Sometimes they will "freeze" up over time with rust, twine, grass, etc. and need to be cleaned up and freed up. But the bolt should not be worn to the point of possibly coming loose or breaking.
Is your gearbox tight? If so, you may have to remove the blades and check them for bends or compare them to see that they are close to each other in weight.

 

[John_Mc]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What machinery do you use to get it up on one side for cleaning and maintenance? )</font>

Lift up my 3 pt hitch all the way, then shorten my toplink (since I have a hydraulic top link, this takes all of a second or two). Prop a 4x4 or log underneath as a safety in case the hydraulics leak down, then have at it.

BTW... it's best not to sharpen them to a sharp edge, unless you know you're mowing a "clean" area... just grass or weeds, no rocks or stumps. A knife-edge makes a good cut for a while, but is more prone to chipping when mowing in rough conditions.

John Mc

 

[Phred]

Mine weighs more than 1000 lbs.
I tried several approaches, including turning it over with a chain and my loader.
I did not like any of the ways I tried out.....
So what I found was simply leave it mounted on the tractor with the 3-point raised all the way up. Disconnect the pto and cutoff the tractor. Place four jack stand underneath each corner.

You can now get up under on a crawler and change the blades easily. Almost zero risk. If the tractor 3-point fails it would take all four stands to fail for you to get hurt.

An impact wrench is worth every penny for this task.