Building Tree Saw from Rotary Mower

DDT · Jul 14, 2013

I have a light duty 6' mower I want to use a 1/4" or 5/16" plate 3 or 4' dia plate and bolt it to blade bar, I cut dish pan off. Blade bar is 18" long. I need to find cheap weld on carbide teeth to my a back saving dream come reality. Trees are in my pasture and will vary from saplings to 6", these are all hedge. I want a clean cut at ground level since I run livestock year around.
Any thoughts on teeth? I am thinking about a tooth every 8" or so.

MarkM2x2 · Jul 14, 2013

DDT,
We have a 653G John Deere Feller Buncher, the teeth are 2 1/2 square the disk that holds the teeth is about 2" thick. This machine will cut a 20" tree. I'm not trying to pee in your corn flakes, I log for a living. After operating this machine I don't think you are going to back into and cut a 6" diam tree with a light duty mower with a 5/16" plate and some teeth welded to it. The weight of that 6" diameter tree is going to bend the crap out of the disk. You also have to worry about where that tree is going to go, hopefully not back on you and your tractor. You might be able to cut saplings, but they will be going every where. This is not our machine, but same. John deere 653 felling ash - YouTube You need to grab the trees our they just go every where. Look on You Tube and watch feller bunchers work, I know they are cutting big trees but same principle.
Good Luck if build it, just be careful when you use it.
Mark

swick1 · Jul 14, 2013

A safer approach may be to make a hydraulic shear. It would be much more controllable. Used with a bush hog you could quickly deforest a lot of land quickly without risking a big flying disc with teeth letting go or trying to pry it out of a tree.

BHD · Jul 15, 2013

stumpster TreeHog 40 - YouTube

http://stumpster.com/Treehog40.htm

using some stump grinder teeth most likely would work.

Bailey's - Stump Grinders & Accessories

Bailey's - Mechanical Harvesting

Arc weld · Jul 15, 2013

You would need some serious engineering for what you're planning to build. You want to turn a light duty mower into an extreme duty tree shear? Don't even attempt a project like that unless you have a death wish. There is an attachment you can buy for a skid steer that is basically a big saw blade that cuts tree's by moving back and forth with the skid steer. This would be a much safer alternative.

Rustyiron · Jul 15, 2013

Aside from some of the other problems pointed out, usually the gearbox is one of the first things to crap out (using as a mower), the saw/carbides would be even harder on it. If your determined, boost up your plate to as much thickness as you can afford. I would'nt waste any time with anything less than 1/2", and if you bring the dia. down to 24" or less, it would help. Look at Baileys at the stump grinder parts. http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?catID=212
Be sure to give us some photos of your build!

Larro Darro · Jul 15, 2013

When I was a kid [1960's] my granddaddy had an eight horse B&S push mower that had a saw blade you could put on it. The front 9 or 10 inches of the deck came off and you could use it to cut small trees. There was a bigger one that ran off the tractor PTO and hooked to the TPH. Both of them were real old, but still in use at the time. I haven't thought of them in years. Now I need to plunder through all the old scrap equipment and see if I can find them.

DDT · Jul 15, 2013

Thanks for the links.
Tractor Mounted Tree Saw. This type of tree saw is more common and safer than some of you know if run correctly. Turbo saw does have 2 3 point models, the other has cylinder with a clam to push the tree away from machine which I plan on building as well. FYI: I am keeping SAFTEY in mind. A hydraulic shear will not leave a clean cut, leaving a long bur on the back side. This is a big NO NO for cattle, they step in them wedging into there hoof which causes a infection. So a shear is not a option. The majority of my trees are 3 to 3 1/2 at ground level. The few big ones I have will fall with a chain saw. A Marshall saw Marshall Tree Saw | Tree Removal uses about 5/16 plate, I found one in town, will stop look it over. very nice unit but skid steer only. If I could afford one I would buy a Turbo Saw and use it for my use only. I am not doing custom work. I have seen several that guys will use buz saw blades on...but they will need resharpened often. I would prefer carbide or a harder steel for teeth.
So Back to my question, Teeth. the turbo saw is 20 to 120 pto hp, it uses 3/4 plate. with average 3" trees the less kerf you take the easier it cuts, gear box concern, but I do have a hydro tranny. Planning on cutting very slow so no burrs left, this will take longer....but I don't care, quality of cut is important. A local machine shop has build several this style. He thought 1/4 or 5/16 would be thick enough for my small trees. Using stump grinder teeth will be to wide of kerf. The tooth width will determine plate thickness depending on what I find. Can a harder square stock beveled on three sides work? This could be toughed up easy with sander pad.

Tractor Seabee · Jul 15, 2013

Check the DR web site, they make a circular blade with chainsaw teeth that you mount on their brush cutter. Might be in the range of the light duty rig you seem to be contemplating. I agree with others, DO NOT TRY TO CUT STUFF LARGER THAN 2" in the manner you desire. Even those will present a control problem to keep of your head. I have a brand new one I'll sell you for $50 if you pay the shipping. My brush cutter was stolen and I did not replace. There are some small shaft parts you may need.

Ron

Ron