Michelle K linnane
Gold Member
Hi Guys
I am getting into duck hunting on my property this year and was thinking of building a ground blind that is mainly for duck hunting but could be moved with the folks of tractor for turkey or deer in the back. I found some plans and like them. Please do not tell me to go to walmart and buy a tent it will not do for this purpose. For duck hunting we will need to have at least 4 hunters in the blind for duck and goose. It will be a lot cheaper to move it with tractor then build on a wagon, as I will not take off my property.
So when you give me your comments remember
It can not fully enclosed
Do not suggest a tent
Do not tell me to build on a wagon
I am going to help hide mass around ponds with hay bales so I do not
want high it must sit on ground.
Here are the plans I found but would like some suggests about how
to build better and how by changing something out I can use for deer or
turkey build. IT would be nice to get out of wind here in during deer season.
Found this on web site
SPECS
Materials: 1/2" CCA plywood; 2x4 CCA boards; 3" galvanized screws. Start by building a 6' x 8' braced frame and attach plywood for floor. Build the 2x4 upright fame on 2 foot centers. Cut and fasten plywood walls and roof. Cut and frame door and fasten hinges on outside with latch hook on inside. Mount plywood for shelf as shown. For hinged flapper to cover the shooting slot, use a piece of light wire cattle panel 18" high and long as the blind. Fasten bottom of panel to front of blind with eye bolts for hinges.
FINISHING TOUCHES
To make this fine blind even better, brush or spray the wood with a tinted stain. Herrman Lumber Company in Clinton has "Everhart Duck Blind Stain" in their computer, a unique marsh grass color.
I cover the outside of my blinds with military camo-leaf netting using a staple gun and zip-ties to attach it to the wire flapper. Add field fence (rusty is best, no shine) with a hammer and steeples to the sides and roof, just loose enough to allow room for weaving in oak limbs and marsh grass.
Visible areas inside the blind can be camouflaged with OD green and flat black spray paint applied in vertical lines. The angle of the flapper can be adjusted by a couple of 2x4 blocks.
SPECIAL FEATURES
The low profile (54" total height) is less obvious to the ducks.
When you stand up in the slot you can see and shoot in all directions. No more surprises from the rear. The seat, at 17", is lower than normal, but still comfortable and leaves plenty of head room. It can also be boxed in and top hinged to make extra storage. The shelf is a great place for shells, food, etc. and is sheltered from the weather. The slanted front, when equipped with propane heaters (I use "Mr. Heater") directs the heat to the hunter's face. A 20lb propane tank can be set outside the blind and a hose run to the heaters.
With the shooting slot near the center, floating blinds are more stable when the hunters are standing. The six foot depth of the blind allows plenty of room for shelter from bad weather. I have both 8 ft and 12 ft blinds. A 16 ft would also work in this design. These blinds are very comfortable and can be built for about $200 and will last for many years. I realize that not all of you waterfowl hunters lease or own property, but I'll bet that if you are a dedicated hunter ... you will someday, and will be in need of a good blind.
And that's all I have to say about that. Remember ... never take more than you need, bring a friend, have fun, pack a camera and improve your blinds a little each year.
Found interesting thing on youtube thought you guys might enjoy.
Duck Blind-How to Assemble - YouTube
I am getting into duck hunting on my property this year and was thinking of building a ground blind that is mainly for duck hunting but could be moved with the folks of tractor for turkey or deer in the back. I found some plans and like them. Please do not tell me to go to walmart and buy a tent it will not do for this purpose. For duck hunting we will need to have at least 4 hunters in the blind for duck and goose. It will be a lot cheaper to move it with tractor then build on a wagon, as I will not take off my property.
So when you give me your comments remember
It can not fully enclosed
Do not suggest a tent
Do not tell me to build on a wagon
I am going to help hide mass around ponds with hay bales so I do not
want high it must sit on ground.
Here are the plans I found but would like some suggests about how
to build better and how by changing something out I can use for deer or
turkey build. IT would be nice to get out of wind here in during deer season.
Found this on web site
SPECS
Materials: 1/2" CCA plywood; 2x4 CCA boards; 3" galvanized screws. Start by building a 6' x 8' braced frame and attach plywood for floor. Build the 2x4 upright fame on 2 foot centers. Cut and fasten plywood walls and roof. Cut and frame door and fasten hinges on outside with latch hook on inside. Mount plywood for shelf as shown. For hinged flapper to cover the shooting slot, use a piece of light wire cattle panel 18" high and long as the blind. Fasten bottom of panel to front of blind with eye bolts for hinges.
FINISHING TOUCHES
To make this fine blind even better, brush or spray the wood with a tinted stain. Herrman Lumber Company in Clinton has "Everhart Duck Blind Stain" in their computer, a unique marsh grass color.
I cover the outside of my blinds with military camo-leaf netting using a staple gun and zip-ties to attach it to the wire flapper. Add field fence (rusty is best, no shine) with a hammer and steeples to the sides and roof, just loose enough to allow room for weaving in oak limbs and marsh grass.
Visible areas inside the blind can be camouflaged with OD green and flat black spray paint applied in vertical lines. The angle of the flapper can be adjusted by a couple of 2x4 blocks.
SPECIAL FEATURES
The low profile (54" total height) is less obvious to the ducks.
When you stand up in the slot you can see and shoot in all directions. No more surprises from the rear. The seat, at 17", is lower than normal, but still comfortable and leaves plenty of head room. It can also be boxed in and top hinged to make extra storage. The shelf is a great place for shells, food, etc. and is sheltered from the weather. The slanted front, when equipped with propane heaters (I use "Mr. Heater") directs the heat to the hunter's face. A 20lb propane tank can be set outside the blind and a hose run to the heaters.
With the shooting slot near the center, floating blinds are more stable when the hunters are standing. The six foot depth of the blind allows plenty of room for shelter from bad weather. I have both 8 ft and 12 ft blinds. A 16 ft would also work in this design. These blinds are very comfortable and can be built for about $200 and will last for many years. I realize that not all of you waterfowl hunters lease or own property, but I'll bet that if you are a dedicated hunter ... you will someday, and will be in need of a good blind.
And that's all I have to say about that. Remember ... never take more than you need, bring a friend, have fun, pack a camera and improve your blinds a little each year.
Found interesting thing on youtube thought you guys might enjoy.
Duck Blind-How to Assemble - YouTube