Building new house..should I use Dryvit exterior?

[Doug_SEIndiana]

I'm interested in hearing from anyone that is familiar with Dryvit exteriors. The house plan we have picked out is brick, but my wife and I like the look of the Dryvit or Stucco materials. How does it compare with the cost of brick or other exterior materials? Has anyone had or heard of anything bad that can happen to a Dryvit house? Does it need painted? What colors are available? Thanks in advance for all your replies!
Doug

 

[Tevi]

The only problem I've heard is that if not installed properly it can mold badly behind it.You may also consider cultered stone

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Doug,

Check with your agent and or insurance compnay. I know in some parts of the country it is a problem and many insurance companies will not write or will charge more $$. You do not want to limit who will write your insurance and charge you for coverage over the life of the home.

Here is a web site that will give you some potential problems with the product.

web page

 

[BXMMCC]

Be very careful about the NJ EIFS web site.
It's pretty obvious that the website was put up by someone with a specific agenda.
Go to the DRYVIT website for good information.
Think about it - the big deal is housewrap - would you want any type of siding on a woodframe house without housewrap?
And yes, there was even a greater problem in NC with EIFS. Even so, knowing all this, we have DRYVIT on our home, and wouldn't hesitate to do it again. Make sure the DRYVIT contractor is authorized by the DRYVIT company. Colors and texture are almost unlimited.
No painting is required; if you want to paint something else to match your color choice, most paint stores can match the DRYVIT color name/number.

 

[_RaT_]

I have seen Dryvit used over existing 3 coat stucco. When done with the traditional stucco and lath, it is a superior product. When done with the foam, it is a gamble in my opinion. As was mentioned, any moisture that gets behind the foam which seems typical around windows, bump outs etc., will not dry out causing the shear panels underneath to rot.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Go to the DRYVIT website for good information )</font>


Go to a web site for the product manufacture, you will see all the good things , for sure, but will they tell you the bad things too? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Unlikely. Guess the best thing to do is to do a search on the product and you will see what people thing good and bad and then make a call on what YOU think is good for you.

I can only give you the insurance company point of view since I work for one and see this stuff all the time. I can tell you that commcercial buildings that have it pay more for insurance then if they did not have it. It is a problem from a mold and fire point of view, i.e combustible material on a metal building.

 

[TWINKLE_TOES]

Doug, my best friend works for a company that installs "Dryvit" exterior finishes. They don't do residential structures only commercial. This is in the Northwest (think rain, 100% humidity, mold) He has personally put on thousands of buckets and now runs a crew. (muscles on his muscles). He has told me about flyby night outfits and the problems they create.. Someone already mentioned hire an outfit who is approved by "Dryvit" Check with www.bbb.com for unsettled disputes. If you like it go for it . Like most everything workmanship is the key, there are no inherit problems with the product. If you want to talk to my buddie send me a private email and I will give you his number. BTW I have lot's and lot's of empty white 5 gallon buckets with DRYVIT on the side, pretty good deal.

 

[Westonium]

I've done a little stucco myself, plus I've done a bit of research on stucco, and other masonry exteriors, and basically they had this to say:

* Always always provide an air gap for water to get back out. Water is pulled in toward the house by thermodynamics and the nature of water + sponge-like masonry materials. It should have a way to drain at the bottom (all across it).

* Wrap the house not once, but twice. in fact, if the air gap is an issue wiht stucco, the best solution is to wrap it 3! times which will ineherently give the water a place to go, besides into your framing.

* Stucco base coats need to be applied in decreasing temperatures. Its okay to apply after noon, but not in the morning in the summer. It will dry out vs. set and it will crack crack crack.

* Its a good idea to mist stucco and other masonry the day after, and even more frequently if it is hot out. A pressure washer at a good distance works great.

I found that refreshing the color of stucco is one of the easiest things I've ever encountered. A quick pressure wash to get the dirt off, and then applying a color "tea" made by mixing a few cups of the powder with water in a bucket and pouring it through old nylon socks or hosiery into a pump sprayer. Its not paint and its very easy to clean up if you don't let it set. I didn't mask anything when I re-whittened out house.

I've heard stucco has a bad name here in the pacific north-west, but I think it is mostly a lack of familiarity and expertise on the part of the contractors. It might get dirty/moss/algae quicker than paint, but its a **** of a lot easier to refresh. As long as you never paint it, additional coats of stucco or color coat will bond quite nicely to the original. Cracks are easily patched.

Hope some of that helps.