I need some design ideas on building a small foot bridge over a creek. We are having a wedding in a remote spot near a waterfall and there is a small creek in our way. Can't get my tractor down there either, so I have to be able to haul this myself from the road. The creek is only about 1 foot deep, but it's pretty swift, and it's about 15 feet wide with high 2 feet banks on either side. I need this to be done as quickly and simply as possible, but we want it to be safe as all of our guests will be walking across it. It also needs to be able to be taken down fairly easy. I though of using tires, long pipe, lanscape timbers, giant styrofoam blocks, etc. Perhaps a 'floating' bridge chained to a tree on each side for stability could work. Open to ideas and advice please. Thanks.
Building a temporary foot bridge over a small creek.
- Thread starter TTThomas
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Have you seen this:
http://www.ilo.org/public/english/employment/recon/eiip/download/ratp/ratp11.pdf
Good luck, only other thing I can think of is renting and rigging up / straping down scaffolding with walkways.
http://www.ilo.org/public/english/employment/recon/eiip/download/ratp/ratp11.pdf
Good luck, only other thing I can think of is renting and rigging up / straping down scaffolding with walkways.
BobRip
Elite Member
Can you post a picture? I think that would help get better answers.
beppington
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Deere Dude
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If it has to be quick, I would put some 20' 2x10s with maybe 4-6' cross pieces to walk on.
forgeblast
Elite Member
I was thinking the 2x10's and ply on top. But make sure you put a rug or better yet pre paint with the anti-skid (sand added) paint. If it gets wet people in dress shoes will go flying.
You could even paint it white to match the day.
I would then use 4x4's on the sides and 2x4 on top for a rail.
If bolted it could all be premade and taken apart easily.
You could even paint it white to match the day.
I would then use 4x4's on the sides and 2x4 on top for a rail.
If bolted it could all be premade and taken apart easily.
Dutch445
Elite Member
i have a swampy area next to my yard that goes over to
property i bought next to me, and i was in the process of
taking out some cedar trees that were either already down or
laying over, and i trimmed them and layed 4 of them side by side,
probably 20' long, and then screwed pallets down, and found some
old flooring planks to run down the middle about 24" wide, makes
a nice little bridge, and everybody seemed ok on it, even the dog. (which
was the reason for the planking, he'd get stuck between the
pallet boards without it! )
property i bought next to me, and i was in the process of
taking out some cedar trees that were either already down or
laying over, and i trimmed them and layed 4 of them side by side,
probably 20' long, and then screwed pallets down, and found some
old flooring planks to run down the middle about 24" wide, makes
a nice little bridge, and everybody seemed ok on it, even the dog. (which
was the reason for the planking, he'd get stuck between the
pallet boards without it! )
dstig1
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15' wide is not a small span... Your best bet may be with some scaffold staging. Anything wood that will span it safely will be quite heavy to move.
Like these:
Stages
Lash a couple together and maybe cobble up a hand rail or something anchored to the ground on each side. You will still need to be careful how many people are on it at a time. Assembly will need to happen on site, in any case.
Like these:
Stages
Lash a couple together and maybe cobble up a hand rail or something anchored to the ground on each side. You will still need to be careful how many people are on it at a time. Assembly will need to happen on site, in any case.
PILOON
Super Star Member
This might help.
My lakeside dock is 20" long with ends resting on RR tie at shore end and steel 'saw horse' in the water.
My structure is 5 2X10's (outers paired with a single in the center)
The decking is 1 1/4 X 6 treated decking boards spaced 1/4" the all nailed with 3" galvanised nails.
Essentially one long ramp.
Being on the lakeside all was easily hand carried to the site.
That was built 20 yrs ago and we have had literally as many as 30 folks on it at one time.
All that to suggest that 2 railroad ties for shore bases and 5ea 2 x 10's (outers paired for load and center to lessen bounce or springiness) along with standard deck planking would be more than adequate.
For faster and easier simply use 2 ea 3/4" plywood to cover (deck) your bridge and U should be good to go.
Perhaps add, maybe one hand rail for those that are a bit queezy (simply bolt the posts (maybe every 4') to the side planks and cap with 2 x 4,s (maybe bolted to the posts)
If you want any permanency, use all treated wood and galvanized hardware.
At 16' long what I suggest is almost up to housing code so you should be good to go.
Precut all your deck planks so that hammer and nails is about all you'll need.
Note that if wet, plywood can get slippery and won't dry all that fast so deck planking while more labor is preferred (and nicer looking)
My lakeside dock is 20" long with ends resting on RR tie at shore end and steel 'saw horse' in the water.
My structure is 5 2X10's (outers paired with a single in the center)
The decking is 1 1/4 X 6 treated decking boards spaced 1/4" the all nailed with 3" galvanised nails.
Essentially one long ramp.
Being on the lakeside all was easily hand carried to the site.
That was built 20 yrs ago and we have had literally as many as 30 folks on it at one time.
All that to suggest that 2 railroad ties for shore bases and 5ea 2 x 10's (outers paired for load and center to lessen bounce or springiness) along with standard deck planking would be more than adequate.
For faster and easier simply use 2 ea 3/4" plywood to cover (deck) your bridge and U should be good to go.
Perhaps add, maybe one hand rail for those that are a bit queezy (simply bolt the posts (maybe every 4') to the side planks and cap with 2 x 4,s (maybe bolted to the posts)
If you want any permanency, use all treated wood and galvanized hardware.
At 16' long what I suggest is almost up to housing code so you should be good to go.
Precut all your deck planks so that hammer and nails is about all you'll need.
Note that if wet, plywood can get slippery and won't dry all that fast so deck planking while more labor is preferred (and nicer looking)