building a fence, question on a tricky corner...

[rholmes69]

double posting, just trying to make sure I reach all potential answers....

I am fencing in about an acre and I have a slightly irregular shape. I have set 54in telephone poles minimum of 9inches wide 3 feet deep in each corner. Each corner has 3 poles set in standard configuration with an 8ft 4-5in brace connecting the brace poles to the corner post. I have one corner post as marked in the picture that is about 30 feet from another corner that makes a quick 8 foot jump over (that I simply is wrapping around the corner to follow the contour) and then travels about 200 feet before the next major corner. Question is on the on the circled corner. I have the standard 3 post setup. do I need to add a 4th post and 8ft brace for that short 30 ft run or will the run be short enough to not add all that much pressure on the end post? I drew a blue line to show what I was wondering if I need to make.

Second question, the longer 500ft run (give or take) do I need to put in a H-brace of telephone poles somewhere along that run in the middle? I am using 6ft t-posts (goal is 18inches deep) to support the woven wire (4x4 sheep/goat mesh, 48in high) around the perimeter.

Thanks for the insight!

 

[RedNeckRacin]

IMO, any corner should have a brace/braces if there is any tension at all on the fence. Its alot easier to do before the fence is up rather than after. If something runs into that wire, it puts alot of pressure on that post to hold things up. Plus, it makes the fence look more uniform.

 

[bcp]

If you have large animals, put in the 4th post.

I have seen posts braced like this:



The dashed line is a tension wire between post tops. Put "X" tension wire between the two posts on the long run, as they can be pulled either way.

Bruce

 

[rholmes69]

The fence will be containing lamancha goats. Below is the actual pic/landscape with my drawn in "do I need this post".

 

[bcp]

I would have done something like this (black line) instead of a corner:

 

[rholmes69]

bcp, would have been easier and preferred, but then the goats might have been tempted to climb the fence and reach over to nibble on the grape vine that is growing there. That is why we did it the way we did with an 8 foot "lane". I also need to make sure that I could get between the fence and the vine to move with the tractor.

 

[BHD]

for the 30 foot I most likely would not worry about real corners, but you all ready have one in, might as well finish the other end too, it will not hurt you much, $25 probably at the most,

a lot just depends on how tight one stretches that fence section, if you basically just hold it up most likely no need, but if your going to have a stringed instrument when done you will need corners,

 

[Western]

I would add the post, no point worrying about it if you have to really stretch the wire. Do it and be done with it. I would also most certainly add an "H" brace in the middle of the 500' run, it will strengthen the run and shorten the repair "chain" if the fence gets damaged.

 

[BukitCase]

With goats, it isn't "if" the fence gets damaged, it's "when"

When the kids were little, one had a milk allergy and we got some Alpine goats - couple does, a buck and the inevitable kids -

Only thing the goats wanted to eat was what was on the OTHER side of the fence - spent 'way too much "quality time" fixing fences - they would rub along the fence til one of the stays went "pop", then a second one, then "oh my gosh, I thought there was a fence there - guess I was wrong", and away they went

The ONLY type of fence I had any luck with was field fencing, at least 3 foot tall fabric, with three strands of hot wire - one on 6" outriggers about 8" off the ground, another 6" outrigger at or near brisket height (if you're crawling on all fours, the center of your rib cage) and a third strand above the fabric. I "tuned the fabric to about E above middle C", then put up the hotwire, and I checked the fence charger every day to make sure it wasn't shorted - Roundup every spring followed by running the weed eater under the lowest wire.

If I didn't do that, I would be fixing fence again.

Also, if you put your cross-beams for H braces on the INSIDE of the fabric, expect an escape - I never had that happen, but my fabric was on the inside and I saw them do enough other stuff that I consider almost ANYTHING "normal" for the little buggers -

Prior to that, I thought CATS were the best thing to teach you patience - not even close... Steve

 

[rholmes69]

I heard from a someone that once you build a fence for goats, you should take a 5 gallon bucket of water and throw it at the fence. If any water gets through, then the goat will get through . My job should be to make what is inside the fence more appealing than what is on the other side.... Hopefully the stand of trees with all the weedy poke berry plants, etc, cedars and other goodies will make them want to stay in. We are starting off with 2 does, no plans to get a buck. We have decided to add a hot wire about 6-8 inches above the top of the fencing. We have lots of little kids (human versions) and they will most certainly shock themselves silly if we put lower electrified lines up. We will also be hoping the 14 chickens stay inside the perimeter as well rather than moving them about in the chicken tractor..... I told my wife if this doesn't work out, we will ditch the goats and get a couple black angus. I would rather eat the beef than the goat cheese :cool2: