Brush Cutter Repair

   / Brush Cutter Repair #1  

SnowRidge

Elite Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2003
Messages
2,818
Location
East Tennessee
Tractor
Power Trac PT-425 / Branson 3520
A few days ago, while unloading my brush cutter from my equipment trailer, I noticed a vertical crack on the left front corner at the point that the skirt reduces in height. There was also a companion crack on the right side. My brush cutter has about 100 hours on it, with the vast majority of that being grass and tall weed cutting. Very little of the time has been woody plants, although the last use was literally brush cutting, the job it is supposed to be designed for. Needless to say, I wasn't too happy to have yet another PT repair to do. :mad:

The first thing I did was to search TBN, where I found a thread by Kaon99 on the same subject, http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/26481-rotary-cutter-deck-cracking.html It contains an excellent analysis of why these decks may be cracking. Fortunately, I caught my cracks before the damage was as severe as what Kaon99 experienced. I decided to use essentially the same techniques for my own repair. I couldn't quite tell from the photos if his weldor had bent the corner braces around the corner or cut and welded them. I thought he might have cut them, and I felt that it would be stronger if they were a single pieces bent around the corners, so I decided to go that route. Like Kaon99, I found my deck was somewhat bowed when I laid a straight edge across it.

Here is the procedure I used to do the repair, in case anyone wants details.

I used 3/8 x 1 1/2 inch angle stock for the corner braces and 3/8 x 2 inch angle stock for the deck braces. My neighbor generously offered me the run of his scrap steel supply, which is how I came to use these specific sizes. They were free and beefy enough to do the job.

I set the brush cutter up on jack stands to get the weight off of the wheels, and to make it easier to work on. Once the weight was off of the wheels, the cracks closed and the deck bowing disappeared, which made my repair a whole lot easier. I ground out the cracks with an angle grinder, then welded them up with 7018 rod, followed by grinding them smooth.

I cut the angle braces and notched the top using a band saw. I used a vise and a rebar bender to bend them to match the deck angle. I then clamped them in place and welded the tops and ends with 7018 rod. I left the bottoms for later. I hate welding upside down. I am not good at it, and I have found it tends to be painful. :eek:

I cut the deck braces, also using a bandsaw, and welded them to the deck using 7018. I used the attachment plate's vertical 'arms' to locate the position of the front to rear braces, but I did not weld the deck braces to the arms, as did Kaon99's weldor. Once the braces were tacked in place, I removed the attachment plate assembly entirely, using the forks to lift it off. I finished welding the front to rear braces and added side to side braces. I felt that although they probably weren't absolutely needed, they would further strengthen the deck.

Next, I flipped the deck over and welded the bottom of the corner braces with 7018. I also welded the inside of the cracked corners, but I used 6011 rod, since I couldn't get the area clean enough for 7018.

I left the motor and hydraulic hoses in place while welding. I just covered them with an old beach towel soaked in water. My wife now wants me to throw out the perfectly good towel. All it needs is to be run through the washer, but for some reason, she won't agree. :rolleyes:
 

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   / Brush Cutter Repair
  • Thread Starter
#2  
After flipping the deck back over and reattaching the attachment assembly, I painted the bare metal using a couple of cans of Walmart 99 cent spray paint.

Now it's ready to battle brush again, without further cracking, I hope.
 

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   / Brush Cutter Repair #3  
Snow, I just checked my brush cutter and found the same cracks. They are just hairline, but definately need repair. Thanks for posting this and saving me more work. I am leaning towards a piece from the center vertical support to the square wheel tubing (suggestd by someone). Also I would repair the existing welds and weld an angle iron along the side. Does anyone see an issue with this. It seems it would weight less. Guess I need to go to the local scrap yard. I also should have fixed the jump out of float problem sooner.
I do have situations where I have to put lift on it and sometimes the whole front of the PT is lifted by the cutter.
 
   / Brush Cutter Repair #4  
I found some 1/4 inch flat steel, 3.5 inches wide. I was thinking about brazing this to the mower deck in the same location that SnowRidge had it done. Then I would braze some short pieces of angle iron to that and the deck in about 4 places. Brazing is a lot easier to do with a torch since you don't have to get it as hot.
 
   / Brush Cutter Repair #5  
I had the same cracks appear in mine, too. I welded them up with no additional bracing, but suspect they will return in time. I only put about 10 hours a year on it so far.
 
   / Brush Cutter Repair
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Gee, it looks more like an epidemic than the isolated occurrence or two that I thought was the case. PT really needs to rethink their design.
 
   / Brush Cutter Repair #7  
SnowRidge said:
Gee, it looks more like an epidemic than the isolated occurrence or two that I thought was the case. PT really needs to rethink their design.

I have seven years and maybe 70 hours. The design should be better.
 
   / Brush Cutter Repair #8  
Had to make the same repair on the 60" brush cutter. I used some old angle iron that was hanging around. I don't weld so went with bolts, nuts and big fender washers. Not as professional as you guys but I think it will hold. While I was at it, I did a mod I've been meaning to get to for some time. I moved the deck forward away from the front wheels of the tractor. That allows me to raise the rear of the deck while mowing, saving a ton of horse power. In my opinion the brush hog cuts way to close to the ground for field mowing, even with the rear wheels in the bottom holes. I mowed a field this morning with the new mod and cut it it about 25% quicker. The engine never bogged down, engine temp never went over 205 deg. and hydraulic oil was only warm to the touch. I would like to take credit for this idea but I remember someone on here did the same a while back.
 

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   / Brush Cutter Repair #9  
Nice re-inforcing job. Did you think about connecting the brace to the front and rear wheels?

On a separate note, doesn't lifting the back fling more debris at you?

What's the little shield you have at the back?

All the best,

Peter

RegL said:
Had to make the same repair on the 60" brush cutter. I used some old angle iron that was hanging around. I don't weld so went with bolts, nuts and big fender washers. Not as professional as you guys but I think it will hold. While I was at it, I did a mod I've been meaning to get to for some time. I moved the deck forward away from the front wheels of the tractor. That allows me to raise the rear of the deck while mowing, saving a ton of horse power. In my opinion the brush hog cuts way to close to the ground for field mowing, even with the rear wheels in the bottom holes. I mowed a field this morning with the new mod and cut it it about 25% quicker. The engine never bogged down, engine temp never went over 205 deg. and hydraulic oil was only warm to the touch. I would like to take credit for this idea but I remember someone on here did the same a while back.
 
   / Brush Cutter Repair #10  
Reg,

If you're looking for more cutting height, it looks like you might enough clearance on the back to go to about a 3" taller wheel. That would raise the cutting height 1.5"

Similarly, it looks like you could put a slightly taller wheel on the front if you needed to...

I don't know where PT gets these front wheel yokes -- but they're not the same size as my Howse landscaping rake, nor will the wheels/tire interchange... So, trying to find different aftermarket yokes might be a challenge.
 

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