Broken Hydraulic tube

[Rowski]

Not a good tractor day today. Couldn't get my mowing job done today (actually couldn't even start it), as promised. Had front flat due to a nail /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif, tubed tire to boot /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif. Then right after I fixed the flat, I had another hydraulic leak /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif. Fixed a loose fitting last night.

Attached is a photo of the tube that is broke. It is the pipe that runs behind the the parking brake pawl. The left side (as seen in the photo) is leaking right at the point where it is welded to the "banjo" (where the bolt goes through). The other end attaches to the hydraulic block to the the right of the parking pawl. I'm lucky in that it is just a return line to the sump. What happen was last night I noticed a leak on my trailer. So I traced it to a loose return line from my loader control valve to the manifold block. So I tightened it. In doing so I also noticed that the bracket that holds the block in place was loose, tightened that too. Cleaned it all up and looked like a good fix. So I figured the vibs must cause the tube to crack. At first I thought it was the seal was bad on the banjo fitting. But it was odd because the more I tightened it the more it leaked!


So... is there a temporary fix? I would like to J-B weld it but I can't keep it dry long enough to apply it. Are there any other ideas? I WILL be ordering one right off tomorrow, but looks like a special order part. It would really be nice to use the tractor while I'm waiting.

Thanks!

 

[Rowski]

Close up of the crack. That is with the bolt snug, not tight. With it tight the crack is larger which makes it leak faster.

 

[JohnMiller3]

For a temp fix, (Only on a No pressure line) try this epoxy… you can pick up at any WalMart (different brand name) in the Marine accessories section… a tube costs about ~ $3-4 ? (all different prices…as low as 50 cents)

Wire brush the area for better surface adhesion, knead the clay like epoxy substance and mold it into place… should be able to use ~ 1 or 2 hours, but I’d give it overnight… and maybe go over the surface again with another layer or two…

Pliable epoxy

 

[Rowski]

Thanks JM3. Does it work on oils, hydraulic oil in my case. With the bolt snug it drips about a drop of oil on about a minute.

 

[JohnMiller3]

I used it on a cracked manifold on my boat (water coolant jacket) while under low pressure and it worked fine, one friend used it for a pin hole in an "injector" line... couple years ago... and I swear I think he's still using it (of course a temp fix /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif), fuel tanks, cracked manifolds, it hardens like steel... (yes, suppose to work around gas, oil, petroleum products)

Try it, Ya have nothing to lose except your time... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[JerryG]

It works real well for most things. I have used a lot of it. You can use it under water, but I don't know about using it where you can't get all the oil off. The adhesion might not be there.

 

[Skeptic]

I have used a "silicone tape" for temporary repairs. It works great. I bought it at our state fair last year.
It is called Mox-Tape ( http://www.arlonstd.com/pages/moxtape.html )
I have used it on electrical connections (permanent) and even on tool handles.
It took me a while to find the manufacturer (a lot of resellers really had jacked up the price). It seems to be made by more manufacturers now. Here is one company that makes it: http://www.tommytape.com/ You can read about the specs on this tape on the sites.
I keep some of this "tape" in my tool box for emergency repairs.
I can't say enough good about this tape and the uses that I have found for it.

 

[JerryG]

Wal-Mart has what sounds like the same thing in the plumbing dept. I also keep a roll in the tool box, it does a good job on a lot of things. It is not sticky at all, as they say when you stretch and overlap it, it then fuses to it self.

 

[Rowski]

Thanks for the help JM3. Unfortunately I couldn't find anything local (the nearest Walmart is 65 miles away). I did however order the new part. Should be at the dealer (right near the Walmart) by Teusday afternoon. Cost $60 for the pipe, $20 for priority shipping. Install should be easy, the hardest part will be catching the hydr. fluid.

 

[jinman]

Derek, if you have the part off, couldn't you get it welded/brazed for less than $80? ...just curious /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Rowski]

I could have my father braze (I'm not good at brazing /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif) it without to much trouble. But I will loose most of hyd, fluid once the pipe is removed. So I just have it new and HOPE it doen't give me any trouble. If it does the old one will be fixed up and kept as a spare. For me having the tractor down is very inconvienent. I do work with the tractor on the side. So when I have do a job at the end of a long "regular" work day the last thing I want to do is repair before moonlighting

 

[_RaT_]

Now you have me curious and I will be checking our 2120. It does look like a vibration fault in the close up photo. I am using the 2120 currently with a Ford 655 backhoe. It is a beast but uses the 4 lever control for the hoe, a configuration I don't have experience with.

 

[normde2001]

I suspect that's just a bad braze from the factory. Should be an easy fix.

 

[Rowski]

Replace the tube last night. Wasn't that tough. Lost about 2 quarts of fluid during the replacement of the tube. New Holland must have changed the tone of the blue to a darker "fuller" blue? Hope I don't break too much more stuff or I'll have a 2 tone tractor /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif.

As you all know there are a lot odd buzzing, rattling, vibration happening when you are running the tractor. Well with this pipe fixed and the bracket tight for the hdyraulic manifold block, there is a missing noise among the other vibs, buzes, and rattles. Could have been loose for a long time.

Rat, I bet you find an 'ol timer and he can run that 4 stick just as well as most people can run a 2 stick backhoe controls. I haven't forgoten the harley rake pictures. If all goes well I'll have a lawn install around a new house and repairing the the front lawn from truck ruts.

 

[_RaT_]

Derek, my limited experience with a backhoe was on the 4 control. Using the far right stick for swing is the thing that always throws me off. I am picking up the Pro 8 Harley this weekend and am considering revamping it with a carbide roller as Tags has done with his. It is about $1600 for all the parts and shipping is another $125 or so. I have been debating whether it will be worth it. Do you use the end plates to catch the material on your rake? My Pro 8 does not have that feature. I still keep the top roller which spins counter clockwise to the bottom roller. Your description and that of the video Harley sent certainly makes it appear that the carbide tooth roller is a great setup. Thanks, Rat...

 

[Rowski]

Noth'n like retrofiting something /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Sound like a fun project. I was reading about replacement procedures for my t-8 rake. You will need some sort of a lifting device as the roller weight is just under 300 lbs. Set of extra hands would help too. As far as the end plates go I use them a lot. From my limited use of my t-8 I have found that a minimum of 2 passes are required. I could get away with one pass if the topsoil has no debris in it. The first pass I keep the t-8 straight with the end plates on and set the roller to about 2" to 3" deep. I do this to level out the area. If the area is really rough then I need to make another pass at the 2" to 3" depth again but at 90 degress to the first pass. Then I get my debris into a pile by using the end plates too. The final pass is quick. I remove one end plate and angle the t-8. If possible I keep the end plate on the side that does not have the gear box (smother finish). Angle the t-8 to the end plate on the "high side". Set the roller so it just touches the ground 1/2' to 1". I use a faster speed and windrow what little debris are left to my clean up area. this final pass creates the dimple effect the Harley talks about. I does make a huge difference on seed germination and especially errosion. It will be interesting to see how a hst will be at creating the dimples. On my gear I know what gear (2 range & 2 gear) If I got one gear faster or slower the dimple is not as pronounced or not there. Also angling makes a better dimple effect than straight. It will be interesting to see how the top rollers will work. I can't find my pro series info so I'm going my memory. The pro has two roller that spin and are adjustable to allow dirt to flow through. The t series just has a rubber barrier. I think that each has it advantages and disadvantages. $2k sounds a lot better than $6K for a new one. But at any rate the carbide roller will do an awsome job of tearing things up and blending into exsisting lawn. Also your soil clots (problem I think you talked about some time ago) will no longer be an issue.

Best of luck with the project.

Fall is coming... 36F last night /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif!!

 

[_RaT_]

Thanks Derek. I look forward to your posts. I have found that using my old L48 HST and the Pro 8 with the standard bottom roller to work very well. I had all hill work. I found going straight up to be the most productive way to do it. Down hill pulled to much material and separation of rocks/debris was not as good. Sideways was either to much material piling up depending on angle of the rake while up hill really gave the roller time to not only do its job, but helped level the best. I had a giant mess after going through and ripping the sloped surface. With football size clods, it was a real nightmare to look at. With two passes of the Harley, it was like a putting green in terms of flatness. The carbide dimple roller would have helped in several ways. Those areas that needed more ripping would not have needed as much attention and the pattern may have helped in holding the seed and its germination. I look forward to getting a final decision on the carbide roller and all of its advantages. Thanks, Mark