Broke my JD H180 FEL

[Jsandy]

I have an H180 on a JD 4066R open station. 3 years old. My bucket and grapple are attached with factory installed Universal Quick Attach. I was traveling through tall grass with the grapple fully rolled back and hit a stump with the steel bar that runs between the mast to alleviate twisting. JD calls it a "pin". The pin is secured in a bushing at either end with an aluminum pin. The steel bar sheared off on both ends where it is drilled to accept the aluminum pins. The ends remain in the bushing in the masts. These bushings are on the inside of the masts. Here is a link to loader diagram John Deere Parts Catalog The steel bar (Part number 7 in the diagram AW32737) does not run all the way through the bushing. There is another pin (Part number 10 in the diagram AW35952) entering the bushing from the outside of each mast. My dealership's service department suggested that the ends of the pins can be driven out. This would have to be done from the inside of the mast because Part #10 has a head on it. (I ordered Part 7 and both Part 10s figuring that I'd damage the 10s in the process. Parts will be in next week) Before I go whaling away with a heavy hammer and punch does any one have any ideas for removing Part 10 so that I don't have to drive the broken piece all the way through the bushing (and pushing Part 10 out at the same time)? Thanks for any advice.

 

[Zebrafive]

I assume there is a cross pin (one each side) at the inside of the carrier mount that retains the bushing 10 and also the rod 7

Remove those pins and bushing 10 should slide out

 

[Jsandy]

Thanks for the reply. My carrier is different than the diagram that you posted. The bushing that the "pins" go into is a solid cylinder similar to the upper hole in the carrier diagram. Part #7 (the steel rod) was pinned in the bushing but it was where the rod was drilled to accept the pins that the rod sheared leaving the two ends in the bushing. Likewise, I can see no pins in the bushing to hold the Part 10 pins. What I am afraid of is that the Part 10s are a press fit that will require more than a hammer and punch especially because there is no way (that I can see) to access the back side of Part 10 to drive it our without trying to drive the broken piece through the bushing at the same time. I'm afraid I'm not explaining myself very well (I obviously do nothing with tractors for a living...retired lawyer...which is how I got into this mess)

 

[jthibodeau89]

Perhaps you can drill and tap into the broken face of the cross bar stub you need to remove. Install a bolt and pull the stub out. Alternatively install a piece of all thread and use a nut and spacer to pull the stub out. Depending on your skills and tools, you may be able to weld the rod to the stub to pull it out. Basically pull the stub out from the same side it was installed, not drive it through.

 

[Zebrafive]

OK, when you said universal carrier, I thought SS (skid steer). So I am guessing you have the standard JD carrier.
Pins 10 have a grease fitting that makes me think they are not press fit.
As long as the cross pins are key 4 are removed. pins 10 should not be hard to remove.

You have been greasing the loader?

 

[Jsandy]

Thanks again for the response. It is indeed a skid steer carrier. Upon closer inspection the bushing is inside the bottom of the mast. The long steel rod (pin) that sheared off is held in place by pins through the bushing. For the life of me I can not see what holds Part 10 in place. The only pictures of that specific part that I can find is from an ebay sale JOHN DEERE H18 FRONT LOADER PIN PART # AW35952 | eBay (there are several pictures in the body of the ad). I like the idea of trying to drill and tap the broken stubs and pulling them out. I sincerely doubt that they can be driven all the way through the bushing.

I just looked at the pictures again. Could the grease zerks be removed from Part 10, tap that hole and pull that pin out? That would give me access to the backside of the broken stubs where they could be driven out?

 

[Zebrafive]

Ok, I think you are misreading the parts catalog. Pin 7 does not go into pin 10. Pin 10 is used on the links (not keyed in the drawing where the pins are shown)

Pin 7 is what holds the carrier on the boom at the bottom and what the carrier pivots on. You should be able to drive the broken part of rod 7 though in either direction, outside in, or inside out, as long as pin 4 ( the aluminum retaining pin) (I am surprised it's aluminum?) not holding it.


If you have your new pin 7 the length should show that it is what goes through the bottom boom bushings. You will need to make sure there is not any pressure on the carrier (raise it off the ground, no implement on it) and the remains of pin 7 should drive out. It would not hurt to grease it's fittings and dump and curl the carrier a few times first.

 

[Jsandy]

I'll try to post some photos that show what I'm talking about.
These show the broken stubs from part 7 inserted into a bushing inside the bottom of the mast. They also show, what I believe to be part 7 inserted into the same bushing from the outside of the mast. I've also attached a picture looking into the bottom of the mast where the solid cylindrical bushing can be seen. Thanks for the time you've spent helping me on this.

 

[jthibodeau89]

Rod #7 goes all the way through the mast on both sides. Simply remove the cross pin and drive out the stub from the broken side. I.E. drive a punch on the broken face of the rod. As stated, the implement must be removed before driving the stub out. The ends of the rod have a recess to protect the grease zert.

 

[Jsandy]

Thanks. Looks like no rain tomorrow. I'll have time to work on it.