Brakes for a Ram2500

[RobertN]

My right front brakes went on my '01 Ram2500 4x4. The inboard disk pad is shot; it is totally worn away and grinding in to the rotor. This is particularily annoying, as this happened before... The brake pads wore down with no indication of being low. All the vehicles I have had before would squeak or chatter a bit when they were wearing down. Yesterday, coming home from the mountians, I noticed a low metal/metal sound. Pulled the wheels tonite and found the right side inner pad worn to nothing, grinding the rotor. The outboard pad still has lots of material.

The drivers front is worn too, but not worn out. The inner pad has about 1/8", the outer much more.

I was on a trip at about 45k miles when the right front went before. Got it home, but ate a rotor. This time I hope the rotor is ok; I shut it down as soon as possible.

Anyone have any leads on good pads? good rotors? I am not impressed with these pads. The rotors seem ok, although I am afraid I might have to replace the right side again. I'm at 89k miles...

I really really like this truck. But I am not impressed with how the front brakes last, nor give an indication of wear. The brakes themselves have always worked very well.

I'm going to tear it down tomorrow eve. I just am not sure what brand parts to look for... My Dad has worked Mopar parts for 40 years; he can get any factory parts. But I'm not impressed with these pads...

 

[Egon]

On advice from a NAPA representative who took me back into the warehouse and spent almost an hour showing and talking about brake systems. [ On one of our vehicles the problems he described did happen just as he stated ]

I have Napa extreme service pads and cheap rotors. I am impressed with the pads. Real difference over the regular pads. The cheap rotors were recomended as the expensive ones warp as easy as do the cheap ones.

My biggest problem was pulling the rotors. Tried it myself and after 10 minutes took the truck to a tire dealership. They could not pull the rotors either. Ended up at a large truck garage that had proper pullers.

Note: my truck usually has a camper on it and is pulling a cargo trailer.

Egon

 

[livincountry]

I had the same thing happen except it was the inside pad of the passenger rear that ate the rotor. I think the problem is that the caliper won't slide freely. The little stainless steel sheet metal that the caliper is supposed to slide on seems pretty junkie. I have a 2002 Ram 2500 and it just seems to be falling apart. It has 81K and had to replace most of the steering linkage and was told at 100K the steering box will need replacement.

 

[LarryRB]

I too, have an 01 HO diesel. Brake pads twice and getting ready for a third round. I buy them from Geno's Garage

 

[jinman]

Robert, the brakes on our trucks are terrible, but I still have the original rotors at 338k miles. They really NEED to be replaced. I've checked with AutoZone and they have rotors for less than $100 each. That's the way I'll go next time. They also carry about three quality grades of pads. My inside pads always wear at twice the rate of the outside pads. The pads I use from AutoZone have a little "telltale" finger that extends to screech when the pads get worn. Just be sure to put it on the inside instead of the outside.

I also believe our rotors are "unitized" with the bearings. I don't believe changing rotors is a shade tree job. As Egon mentioned, I think you are best to seek qualified help when replacing the rotors. As such, you'll probably get the rotors the shop wants to use and you'll not have much choice.

I've been through lots of pads in 338k miles. The ones from AutoZone seem to last at least 40k miles under normal driving conditions.

 

[Michael_E_Tx]

I have a'97, same deal. I agree with Livincountry that the problem is primarily one of sticking calipers. I knew for some time (and did nothing about it) that my right front caliper was dragging.

Jim, the "unitized" in relation to these assemblies refers to the wheel bearings, not the rotor/wheel bearing assembly. Unlike many applications, there is no separate inner and outer wheel bearing. To replace a wheel bearing, one presses out the old from the hub and presses in a new.

To remove/replace a rotor only involves pressing the studs out with a shop press and pressing them back in with the new rotor in place. I've only done this once, but I was able to pull the hub assembly (with rotor attached) with a puller from HF.

Mike

 

[RobertN]

I am very happy with the rest of the truck. Everything else has been great. I haul with it, commute, towed Bobcats, Boy Scout patrol trailer, been rearended. It's just these brakes...

 

[jinman]

Jim, the "unitized" in relation to these assemblies refers to the wheel bearings, not the rotor/wheel bearing assembly. Unlike many applications, there is no separate inner and outer wheel bearing. To replace a wheel bearing, one presses out the old from the hub and presses in a new.

To remove/replace a rotor only involves pressing the studs out with a shop press and pressing them back in with the new rotor in place. I've only done this once, but I was able to pull the hub assembly (with rotor attached) with a puller from HF.

Mike

Thanks for the info, Mike. What I want to avoid is trying to do this and ending up over my head with the front end all torn apart. I think I have a couple of shops locally that can handle the job for me and the prudent solution would be for me to let someone do the rotors who knows what they are doing. Even at 338k miles, I'd still like to keep and drive this truck. It's like an old and comfortable pair of shoes.

 

[Michael_E_Tx]

I know what you mean Jim, about not wanting to get into a job and not be able to finish it. Glad you have a couple shops to do the job. I'm so gull darned committed to doing everything myself, I just never have the occasion to find out if a shop is competent or not. Sure would be handy sometimes though.

By my reckoning, you've only got another another 110,000 to 140,000 miles to go and you're probably gonna have to do some engine work. I've only got 175,000 on mine, barely broke in, but I can really relate to the comfortable old shoes idea.

 

[Egon]

I'm not sure but I think some people go for the Midas lifetime guarantee brake jobs and just keep going back.

To get the rotors off is mainly a proper puller. One that is larger than most tire shops servicing mostly cars have.

I doubt that Robert will have any trouble doing the work himself.

 

[RobertN]

I can do the work. I am looking for parts My Dad has 40+ years of Mopar parts expierience; I never researched this stuff. Based on two sets of factory brakes going kapute, I think I want somethingelse.. Now my truck is on jackstands, and I'm without a primary ride, so I need to get on this.

 

[George2615]

I do quite a few brake jobs for co workers and family. Been a mechanic for almost 35 yrs. Most rotors I've been buying at auto parts stores today are made in china. It's stamped on the rotor. The owners of most of the vehicles do not want to spend more for American made so I can't tell you if the rotors would last any longer. I usually buy Bendix pads and I don't buy the cheaper pads. For my own vehicles I get lifetime warranty parts. The caliper sliders need to be cleaned and lubed in order to work properly. If they aren't then the inside pad wears out twice as fast as the outer.

 

[RobertN]

If they aren't then the inside pad wears out twice as fast as the outer.

That is what happened. There was no indicator, ie squeaker. It was just working fine, and then grinding.

 

[RobertN]

Appears I can get Powerstop rotors for $250 from Summit, or EBC for $200. Heavy duty pads are $75-90.

Have not checked NAPA yet. I'm guessing more standard Brembo or equivilant parts are cheaper. The above is for drilled and slotted rotors. Hey, that Turbo Cummins is fast

 

[ScottAR]

Wagner (morse) premium pads would run about $50-$70 an end. I'm not sure on the dodges, On the ford 4x4s the rotors just slip on. The uneven wear is stuck calipers as others have stated.

If you need a new hub assembly, The dodges used both a Dana 44 and a Dana 60.
The Dana 44 mounts with 3 bolts and the Dana 60 mounts with 4 bolts to the knuckle. I hope the hubs are ok as they are $$$.

 

[Dargo]

Dang! I made it to 105K before I changed any pads on my '96 1 ton 4X4 diesel dually. No kidding. I changed the rear drums while I was at it and used the NAPA GM rear wheel cylinder (bolts right on and is larger) and now the rears work much better. Heck, I'm pulling about 16k behind my truck most of the time as well. I guess I have my trailer brakes adjusted up plenty...love that Prodigy controller.

 

[RobertN]

I pulled it apart last night. Rotor is trash; it is below minimum. I limped it home about 25 miles, but it is finished.

My other rotor shows a lot of wear. In the middle of the rotor, it is barely meeting min thickness. If it is surfaced to clean it up, it would take it below min. With 88k miles.

I am looking at aftermarket rotors and pads. Even though my Dad can get a break on pricing, the factory stuff is just as expensive as high grade aftermarket.

There are some rotors and pafds that are less expensive. But, I haul stuff every couple of weeks, either the tractor or the Troop trailer. I don't want to be hauling our Troop trailer and have a bunch of Scouts in the truck and have a brake failure...

 

[RobertN]

Here's an update...

My parts came in yesterday. Last night I installed EBC slotted rotors and matching heavy use pads. Made sure the sliders were clean, lightly lubed, and working smoothly.

It all went together very easily. A 4 mile drive seemed to go smooth, brakes felt good during breakin stops as recomended by the papers for the pads/rotors.

We'll see today; I have to run across Sacramento for some Boy Scout leader training in a few minutes.