Brake job advice

[Taylortractornut]

I have a dumb question for yall. Im about to replace the pads and rotors on my wifes 02 Ford Ranger. I was told by a friend Id have to open the bleeder to push out the fluid when opening the caliper to prevent damaging the the antilock set up. I always thought back when I did my own work that it was only required when a person filled the resevoir with fluid after the pads wore down that they had to be bled.

I m wanting to do the brakes myself, as most of the shops here are doing hack jobs on alot of work. Just last week a good friend of mines 16 year old daughter was pulling into the carport and whe nshe put the brakes on the pedal hit the floor. She took out a fishing boat and a jet ski and undid someof his old Cub Cadets retoration work. Found out the mechanic when replacing the rubber lines to the front brakes they had un bolted the braket that holds the steel line to the frame. It let the rubber line wear into the tire.

THe only shop I really trust is booked for 2 weeks. I do the disc brakes and rotors on the trucks at work but they are air brakes.

 

[jbarker855]

I have never heard of having to do that. I would just put a c clamp on the caliper and compress it like usual. I haven't worked on that particular model, but I have worked on many cars with ABS and have never opened a bleeder to protect the ABS system. Let's see what others say though.
-Jay

 

[Taylortractornut]

Thanks Jay I trhink my friend that told me this is oneof these folks that likes to ix it by pouring some thing into it types lol.

 

[Hawghauler]

Anti-locks don't take well to fluid traveling in the wrong direction. I think it messes up the sensor, not sure. Just open the bleeder and then compress the piston. Some big channel locks should do the trick. Close the bleeder when compressed. It will puke some fluid out. After you have completed the job and pumped the new brakes, check your fluid resevoir and top off with the appropriate fluid. Always clean the calipers well and lube the points that slide with white lube. Should be a simple job.

 

[Jim Thompson]

It's a good idea to loosen bleeder screws when compressing the calipers. I also like to remove the old fluid from the reservoir to remove as many contaminants as possible and refill with new fluid. A vacuum bleed, while not necessary, is nice to remove residual old fluid from the lines. Fluid isn't very expensive and I think that changing it improves the life of all the "rubber" components in your brake system.

Jim

 

[Willl]

C clamp it and be done.

 

[czechsonofagun]

Remember to pump brakes before driving it; it makes a nasty surprise otherwise.

 

[jimmyj]

I just use a c clamp but go slow.

 

[OKnewguy]

I have heard this before, and if I remember right, the idea is to not allow the old crudy contaminated fluid back up into parts of the abs system that evidently are very fragile. I do bleed while compressing the piston just to be on the safe side. I have also heard that on some abs cars, you need to put a 2x4 under the pedal when bleeding, because something in the abs can get messed up if the pedal bottoms out.
Dave

 

[timswi]

I change the brakes on all kinds of ABS vehicles and never have cracked a bleeder. Just go slow with a c-clamp pushing on the old pad to keep the piston straight and prevent burying it too far.

 

[bp fick]

I have an 05 Ranger and have done the fronts. First off, the fronts are not anti-lock, only the rear.

Secondly, yes, C clamp or caliper grips, or even super large channel locks and be done.

 

[bp fick]

To bleed the front lines, which you should do as brake fluid has a life span for rust inhibitor issues you know. When you are done installing the pads, just open the bleeder. One side at a time. Let it drip into a coffee can or oil change pan. Keep the reservoir full at all times. Let bleed until old fluid is replaced by new, approximately 6-8 oz. Do the other side. Brake fluid is cheap. Replacing rusted brake lines is a pita.

This is called gravity bleeding and it is stunningly effective, especially for a one man show. Beats all the "pump it up!" "Hold it" stuff.

 

[Taylortractornut]

Thanks for the tip BP I didnt know the fronts werent abs. I think myh shop has an opening this week if not ill do them myself.

 

[CurlyDave]

I have found that some of the tire chains will do a brake job for less than I can buy the parts. And that is getting them on the internet.

Look around and ask.

 

[Wis Bang]

My technician [neighbor] has a plate w/ a threaded knob that he uses to push one of the old pads to slowly push the piston back. He uses it all the time on ABS equipped cars.

I used to put pressure w/ a big screw driver b/4 opening the bleeder & close it just b/4 the piston was all the way in so no air was drawn into the system b/4 I had access to his tools...