Box scraper question eMax25

[jeepndd]

I have a gravel access road about 300 feet in length with no more than a 10 degree grade at any point under 1000 ft. above sea level in need of work. I also have brush I want to clear and turn into field. Everything I've read says my tractor should handle a 5 foot box blade without issue. Is that practical or should I really be looking at a 4 foot box blade? Here in NH box blades even used seem to come at a premium in cost so I want to get the right size for the job the first time.

 

[RNeumann]

Typically just a few inches wider than the machine. Too wide and you run out of traction plus it limits your ability to maneuver. Too narrow and your tires are wider than the blade- that makes working an edge less than ideal.

Their are a few exceptions to this “rule”- but most would suggest this.

 

[/pine]

I have a 17 HP B series that is just about the same weight as your tractor...I pull the 60" version of the box blade seen below with very satisfactory results...
The rule of thumb when it comes to box blades is "the heavier the better" but in my opinion it is more important to buy attachments that are sized correctly for a particular class of tractor...

Bush Hog(R) CBX Compact Rear Blades

Good Luck

 

[Mattt2778]

I've been using a tractor supply 60" box blade with my emax for several years. It's been a great implement. The lighter duty tractor supply version seems to be a good fit for the emax. I regularly maintain a 800 foot shared gravel driveway without issue. It's also a great ballast for loader work.

 

[jeff9366]

The Three Point Hitch provides no Down Pressure.

The pressure which determines how well a Box Blade will cut is determined by gravity, therefore WEIGHT PER UNIT OF WIDTH is the best indicator of how well a Box Blade will cut.
To me, 80 pounds per foot of operating width is the minimum. Others will disagree. I do not like to fool around drawing a Box Blade repeatedly over the same soil. I like to get the work done.

Buy the heaviest Box Blade you can afford, as wide as your rear tires are spaced, or 6" to 8" wider.

 

[jeff9366]

I have a gravel access road about 300 feet in length with no more than a 10 degree grade at any point in need of work. I also have brush I want to clear and turn into field.

On light tractors I prefer a Ratchet Rake bucket attachment for grading and transporting soil short distances, relative to a Box Blade. For tearing out brush Ratchet Rake is far superior to a Box Blade. You can order a Ratchet Rake through TSC but their inventory is spotty. I recommend ordering direct from the factory.

Ratchet Rake, LLC - All Terrain Rake, Snow Edge, Tractor attachment, Bucket attachment, Loader, Skid loader, Kubota, Skid steer, Landscape rake, Brush remover, York Rake, Harley Rake, Rock Rake, Tractor rake attachment, Construction attachment, New Holland, Bobcat, Fire safety, Home fire safety, Fire prevention, John Deere, skid steer attachment, tractor implement

VIDEO: RATCHET RAKE GRADING - YouTube

6/09/2016​

This post concerns Ratchet Rakes Vs. light Box Blades, such as the 60" Land Pride BB1260/346 pounds/69 pounds per foot.

I searched for the weight of Kubota L3301 bucket but could not find a number. I presume L3301 bucket weighs approximately 240 pounds, extrapolating from other kubota specs. 68" Ratchet Rake weighs 88 pounds. Adding 240 + 88 = 328 pounds, pretty close to 346 pounds of BB1260 Box Blade.

In addition, the (operator controlled) weight of the FEL frame bears on the Ratchet Rake. Likewise, weight of the Three Point Hitch bears on the Box Blade. FEL frames weigh much more than ( 3X? 4X?) Three Point Hitch components. So, including some FEL weight, I guesstimate that ground contact pressure on Ratchet Rake and BB1260 would be at least equal, perhaps greater pressure on the Ratchet Rake.

Further in Ratchet Rake's favor you have articulation of bucket/RR combination in two planes from the operator's station and 1-1/2" serrated teeth on the Ratchet Rake.

Box Blade can be raised and lowered hydraulically from the operator's station. Box Blade angle of attack is adjustable via the Three Point Hitch Top Link, but not from the operator's station. Standard Box Blade does not have rippers, standard is a smooth cutting edge.

Ratchet Rake is capable of tearing up sod with its serrated teeth, the initial operation in much grading. The Ratchet Rake will not pull as large a load as a Box Blade but it may pull 35% of capacity of BB1260 per pass, with faster cycles. Ratchet Rake is more intuitive in operation than a Box Blade, which requires considerable experience to operate efficiently.

This is why I feel the Ratchet Rake is superior to light Box Blades for LIGHT grading.

I own both a Ratchet Rake and a Rollover Box Blade.

When I have heavy grading to do, I mount my 60"/625 pound (125 pounds per foot) Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade on the tractor's Three Point Hitch AND the Ratchet Rake on my FEL bucket.

 

[/pine]

The Three Point Hitch provides no Down Pressure.

The pressure which determines how well a Box Blade will cut is determined by gravity, therefore WEIGHT PER UNIT OF WIDTH is the best indicator of how well a Box Blade will cut.
To me, 80 pounds per foot of operating width is the minimum. Others will disagree. I do not like to fool around drawing a Box Blade repeatedly over the same soil. I like to get the work done.

Buy the heaviest Box Blade you can afford, as wide as your rear tires are spaced, or 6" to 8" wider.

IMO Advising someone (especially a new operator) to buy an attachment that is not properly configured for a particular range of tractor size/classes etc. is bad advice...

With a little experience it is just as easy to fill a lighter weight (properly sized) box blade than a much heavier one of the same width...with a lighter blade the scarifiers make the difference...learning to use them in hard terrain is the equalizer...!

Learning to use the scarifiers to make up for extra weight of a heavier blade is very rewarding and not having to deal with a drag behind implement that you can't even nudge a tad when hooking up doesn't happen...

IMO without a hydraulic top link it is another story...normally once a bb has a full payload you quit cutting then rotate the blade to a neutral position and move the material to where it is desired then drop the load or roll the blade back to distribute and smooth the material...doing this without a HTL is a chore...

 

[jeff9366]

IMO Advising someone (especially a new operator) to buy an attachment that is not properly configured for a particular range of tractor size/classes etc. is bad advice...

Just a glance at RR's web site would inform you RRs are made in multiple widths and varying thicknesses of steel, appropriate for all subcompact and compact tractors, Category 1 and Category 2.

The pictures I posted show my first RR on the bucket of a B3300SU, 2,600 pounds, including the FEL, which is the only way the B3300SU Tractor/Loader was sold. If the OP has a Loader on his eMax 25, the operating weights will be close.

As I posted: "Ratchet Rake is more intuitive in operation than a Box Blade, which requires considerable experience to operate efficiently."


Summary: I have plenty of BB experience. I have plenty of RR experience, including RR experience on a tractor very similar to OP's.

RR is easier to use, shorter learning curve, cheaper, requires less storage space. RR is a primo attachment for tearing our brush.


Hmmmm..... How wide and how deep is YOUR Ratchet Rake experience?

 

[Sidnsam]

I had a 60 inch boxblade on my emax25 hst cab and it dragged it for fun with lots left to give if needed. I pulled rocks over 400 lbs out of the ground. Dont worry about that machine having enough power it just lacks weight, I believe it's only around 1500 lbs.

 

[Scrambler82]

Jeepndd,

I have the Max28, 55" wide and I use a 60" Box Blade/Gannon but I find sometimes it loads up more than this little girl can pull reasonably.
I don't like to over work my tools but I don't think a narrower Box Blade is the correct decision either.
What I do it raise the Box, drop the load, and back it out of the way using the rear of the Blade, then go back and us ether FEL to get it done.
Is this the best way, don't know but it works for me and the full load doesn't happen all the time, so... from a Novice's point of view, either an HD or a lighter weight unit, as long as it is a little wider than the Tractor will work.

Your Tractor is 47" wide, ???? my rule of thumb, the tool should be a few inches wider that the Tractor... is there a 54" Box Blade or Land Plane !

BUT... (funny how there is always a BUT... or should I say BUTT) I like even better for Road Work, the Land Plane/Grader-Scraper, this tool was designed for Road Work and has never loaded to a point the little Max28 has a problem with it. If you don't know what the Land Plane is, it is a double angle bladed box blade with no rear panel to collect the material. As you get a loaded Land Plane it actually works the best filling in the low spots and the double angled blades cut a little better than the single rear blade on the Box Blade when doing Road Work.

Let me expand on "me" a little bit, I am relatively new to Tractors, six years or so, I have learned my stuff by using the tool not being taught by an experienced operator, good or bad... !?! Please take any info I post with "a grain of salt", it isn't always the best info but it is info that worked for me.

Good Luck on which ever way and size you go !