Box Scraper Box blade weight

   / Box blade weight #1  

brianMO

Silver Member
Joined
May 4, 2004
Messages
154
Location
Missouri
Tractor
TYM T330 w/ lt300 loader
Need weigh ideas for a box blade. Anybody added extra weight. I am also interested in adding hydralic draft for my top link. Has anybody done that?
 
   / Box blade weight #2  
A railroad tie might work
 
   / Box blade weight #3  
I have a 6" PVC filled with concrete. Works great for a drag also.
 
   / Box blade weight #4  
Need weigh ideas for a box blade. Anybody added extra weight. I am also interested in adding hydralic draft for my top link. Has anybody done that?

I have a toothbar that I rarely use because it doesn't do much in the granite where I live and I need to remove the cutting edge to put it on. I have tied it to the back of my box blade and it makes a remarkable difference. Here is a picture of it on the bucket, I don't have one of it on the BB. I don't know how much it weights but it is all I can lift.
 

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   / Box blade weight #5  
Have a 54 inch box blade. Added a 54 inch long piece of I-beam. Drilled two holes in the top, drilled matching holes in the top rear frame of the BB, hung the I-beam on it and dropped two bolts through the holes. Don't know for sure how much the I-beam weighs. I'm guessing 150 lbs or so since the wife and I can pick it up and move it around with some difficulty. I have tried the BB both with and without the added weight. Works much better with the weight, but I have to be careful lowing the 3pt. With the added weight, it drops real fast if I'm not careful.

GS
 
   / Box blade weight #6  
I have some old elevator weights that have been laying around for years and now have a use for them. about 275# I saw what I thought was another great idea on another post, on here somewhere. They used weight from a weight set. If you can find someones old cast iron weights at a garage sale and stack them on your BB
 

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   / Box blade weight #7  
The suitcase weights for the front of my tractor fit on the braces for the box blade.
 
   / Box blade weight #8  
Since no one else has responded about the hydraulic top link, I'll put my $0.02 in for what it is worth. You will use the top link to control the scarifiers and the aggressiveness of the blade, and the side link to crown or shape a ditch with the box blade. Hydraulic top 'n tilt allows you to make both adjustments on the fly, which sure beats having to stop, adjust, stop and adjust again, etc., etc. At least I've been learning that from the forum. Top takes one scv, tilt takes another, so if you get both, you need to have two scvs on your tractor.
 
   / Box blade weight
  • Thread Starter
#9  
How difficult would it be to add, and how much for the hydralic top link? On the fly ajustments would be awesome.

Yesterday I welded a 3/4" bolt to the top of the box blade. I then added weights that I used to work out with to the top. I figured they were just collecting dust. I added about 120lb. Made a big difference. I have room to add more because this bolt is about 15 inches long. I am still trying to master the BB. It keeps getting packed with dirt and sod and will not spread to the low places like I want it to. I have played with the draft ajustments several times.
 
   / Box blade weight #10  
How difficult would it be to add, and how much for the hydralic top link? On the fly ajustments would be awesome.

Yesterday I welded a 3/4" bolt to the top of the box blade. I then added weights that I used to work out with to the top. I figured they were just collecting dust. I added about 120lb. Made a big difference. I have room to add more because this bolt is about 15 inches long. I am still trying to master the BB. It keeps getting packed with dirt and sod and will not spread to the low places like I want it to. I have played with the draft ajustments several times.

Difficulty depends on how you go about it. You can usually buy an OEM kit from your dealer that bolts on in a 1/2 day if you go slow, careful and stop for beer. The price of them varies from sort of high to astonishingly absurd.

The cylinders are between 100 and $600 depending on the size of cylinder, style, options, and where you get them. Surplus center (a vendor here) may have them and there is a vendor that sells them with lock valve (best option). The control valves are in the $200-1000 range with the dealer being the only one bold enough to charge the most. Then the hoses and other stuff can easily add a couple hundred to 3x that.

Guys that do it themselves from various parts have been in the 5-800 range. Having the dealer do it is in the $1-2000 range with the high end being more common! That's why not many people have them. Long time vendor, Carver equipment has a good write up on them as it relates to Kubota tractors. Other models are similar. Oddly, price leader Deere has generally lower prices.

Top and Tilt -- Remote valves
 
 

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