Grading Box blade then tiller?

[Boatnut]

Hi, been reading here a week or so now, first question... I have just purchased my first "real" tractor. 2003 BX23 TLB. I also have a 48" tiller and a 48" box blade. The project: Redo old lawn. Approx 1/4 acre.Old grass on 1"-2" of top soil over 4"-7" of pond silt.Clay below. Been there approx 15 years.( I put it there, no rocks/roots) Some small "hills and valleys" of maybe 6" off grade but basically level. What is the best procedure?
I've been told to rip it up a bit with the box blade scarifiers and then till. Also told other way around. Also told till, leave for a few days, till again then finish with box blade.
I am not looking for lowest time in the seat method particularly as I need the practice!! Will never be a show lawn, just looking to prep for reseed.
Any help really appreciated.

 

[framer]

Welcome to tbn.Tiller first will get mix vegetation in soil box blade will fill
up doesn't work as well as scraping of vegetation first with box blade.Then
tilling.Tilling makes removing soil faster if ground is hard.If not box blade
works good alone with a little practice. Good luck. Framer

 

[AMR]

I turned about a half acre of "field" into lawn on one side of my house. I took it down tight with a few passes from my brush hog, I picked up the big sticks and pieces of grass with a quick raking by hand, then I tilled it about 4 passes then I took a landscape rake to it also by hand. Worked like a charm. If what you are going over is just old grass my vote would be to get on it with a tiller and have at it. Tillers are pretty good at giving you a nice smooth grade also.

Congrats on your BX23, that was my first tractor and I loved it, maybe that is my old tractor, if so, treat her well!

 

[radioman]

Welcome to TBN!

IMHO, I would prefer to till first to loosen the soil, twice- about 12 hours apart. The first till is to quickly make the grass, weeds to breakup in smaller stuff. A boxblade would clump this stuff up. You would be able to find any roots, rocks that needs to be picked up in the meantime with your FEL. You can use the boxblade to move remove hills and fill dips better then a backblading of FEL can. Leaving 12-24 hours till the next till will let the soil dry out to produce a finer tillage. Then run the tiller again to smooth all of your work and tire tracks and produce a really nice area for planting grass seed.

Anyway, that is what I would do in your shoes with the implements you have at the moment. Have some fun seat time! I know I would

 

[fish6942]

Have you considered killing off all the vegetation first (Roundup, etc)?

It seems like all the unwanted weeds and whatnot will end up finding their way back up if you just tilled it.

 

[LBrown59]

Hi, been reading here a week or so now, first question... I have just purchased my first "real" tractor. 2003 BX23 TLB. I also have a 48" tiller and a 48" box blade. The project: Redo old lawn. Approx 1/4 acre.Old grass on 1"-2" of top soil over 4"-7" of pond silt.Clay below. Been there approx 15 years.( I put it there, no rocks/roots) Some small "hills and valleys" of maybe 6" off grade but basically level. What is the best procedure?

I have about 6/10 of an acre to re due .
Since I don't have a box blade here is how I will probably go about it.

Till it with this used BX1500.

Grade /level with the BX23 & FEL.

Do the fine grading/smoothing with the front blade of the used BX1500.

Final step,use the new BX1500 to tow this drag to level and finish smoothing out.

 

[Boatnut]

Have you considered killing off all the vegetation first (Roundup, etc)

Yeah, I know what your saying, however, we are on a surface well. I can not wrap my head around spraying something around that is death to everything green. I know it breaks down. I know you can **** near drink it. I know we also thought tobacco and alcohol didn't hurt you either!
If I didn't have a well I'd be all over it.
I think I'll go with the till, let it rest/dry, till again and then box blade to finish.
Thanks to all for advise.