Box Blade - existing lawn work

c-and-a · Aug 2, 2011

I have spent hours reading threads on box blades, so I apologize if this seems like an old topic...

I need to reseed an existing lawn - my plan was to use a box blade to scrape up top-layer of growth, mostly weeds/crab grass, but some existing grass as well... remove the clumps and then add about 3" to 4" of new loam. Drop piles with FEL and spread with BB...

Am I over thinking this? Will the BB "skim off" the top layer of growth?

Should I just use the FEL to scrape and back-drag to spread?

Most posts are gravel/driveway related...

All thoughts/feedback are welcomed...

jenkinsph · Aug 2, 2011

If you are intent on adding 3 to 4" of new soil I would simply add it on top, smooth it out and plant it. I would seed it heavily and plan on using a fertilizer such as "Halts crab grass preventer in the spring next year after the new grass has had a chance to get established well.

I should add that this year I have planted all of the new grass lawns with starter fertilizer and found that the time between seeding and getting a growth height of two inches is reduced dramatically. In the past I would wait until I had a stand of grass before fertilizing.

If you don't need to add top soil for other reasons I can say that I had one customer with a small lawn area that I used my small boxblade and mower to scratch it up and smooth. Then reseeded it and now after about 30 days it looks good. This was only about 700 sf and I felt it wasn't cost effective to bring in a tractor and tiller for it.

Combustix · Aug 2, 2011

after box bladeing and tossing down your seed if you have a landscape rake go over it with that. Mixes the seeds in well and gives a smoother finish

CharlieS · Aug 2, 2011

if you're in need of scraping the top layer of grass/weeds/roots off before adding topsoil and reseeding, you already have the tool for that application. simply cut the top couple inches off with the loader bucket, getting rid of the majority of the noxious roots. then add topsoil as needed, smooth with a box blade and rake or chain harrow and reseed.
If you are just trying to get rid of alot of weeds and level the area, spray it with a broadleaf week killer, such as 2-4-D, add topsoil to the areas that need leveled, then seed those areas and overseed the existing lawn.

Villengineer · Aug 3, 2011

In my area, unless the area you are trying to repair is very small, adding 3-4" of top soil would big $$$. That's a lot more soil than most people think. This is what I have done on a couple acre + areas to fields or unkept grass to get a lawn: Spray with a selective herbicide (I have used Millenium with very good results), do any leveling/filling/etc.. that needs done in specific areas, Top dress no more than 1" if necessary (allows most of the existing grass to survive), and then slit seed heavily in a criss-cross pattern. Feed & use herbicide as you would a new lawn from that point.

ttammag · Aug 3, 2011

Villengineer said:
In my area, unless the area you are trying to repair is very small, adding 3-4" of top soil would big $$$. That's a lot more soil than most people think. This is what I have done on a couple acre + areas to fields or unkept grass to get a lawn: Spray with a selective herbicide (I have used Millenium with very good results), do any leveling/filling/etc.. that needs done in specific areas, Top dress no more than 1" if necessary (allows most of the existing grass to survive), and then slit seed heavily in a criss-cross pattern. Feed & use herbicide as you would a new lawn from that point.

I'd say you're right. If I did the math correctly, 3" of top cover on half an acre of property would take about 200 cubic yards of material.

2LateIWon · Aug 3, 2011

I have a 6' BB and it has a tough time cutting through the grass specially with out the rippers. But once it's under that layer it works pretty good so you may want to use your FEL to get you started.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxuEDGSGOZA&feature=related

c-and-a · Aug 3, 2011

All great information - thank you!!

Yes - my 3-4" was a bit "over-the-top"... I spoke to a friend who did a very similar project as posted - "rejuvenation" with herbacide, top-dress, and slice seed with great results...

Thanks for all the help - still deciding what to do...so last question, to top dress about 20K ft2 with about 1" - is a box blade worth the investment? I would also plan to use the BB for snow removal as well (small parking area and driveway)

Much appreciated for all the feedback!
Curt

Villengineer · Aug 4, 2011

I do not, would not even consider, using my box blade for snow removal and you most likely get more snow than I do. I think the cutting edge would be too aggressive and it won't "cast" snow off to the side. If you only had short runs, then I guess if you get the angle of attack just right it would work ok in reverse.

As far as the lawn is concerned, unless you have large areas that need leveled or cut down, I would suggest skipping the expense of the box blade and use your fel bucket.

jenkinsph · Aug 4, 2011

c-and-a said:
All great information - thank you!!

Yes - my 3-4" was a bit "over-the-top"... I spoke to a friend who did a very similar project as posted - "rejuvenation" with herbacide, top-dress, and slice seed with great results...

Thanks for all the help - still deciding what to do...so last question, to top dress about 20K ft2 with about 1" - is a box blade worth the investment? I would also plan to use the BB for snow removal as well (small parking area and driveway)

Much appreciated for all the feedback!
Curt

I try not to make decisions based on need or investment, if I did I wouldn't have anything to play with.:laughing:

You obviously have the tractor and might as well have some implements to use with it, if you wan't.