Bought a Used TC35 shuttle I think its a 2003

[jjbath]

A week ago I purchased a TC35 with a 16LA loader and1100 hours for 11k. It didn't have the quick attach bucket but another tractor on the lot did and the dealer switched if for me for no charge. I'm not sure exactly what year it is though. It looks like the engine was made mid 2003.

Do you think that is a good price? I can't find anything even close to this price in this shape. The loader looks like it was barely used and the 3pt still has most of the paint.
Everything works as expected but the front tires are pretty worn. I'd say 30-40% left at most. Also, the hood latch was missing but I ordered a new one for $20 and now it works fine.

Is there enything I should look for that may bite me later? I know about the radiator corrosion from the battery acid and mine looks pretty good.

Thanks for any information.

So far I have put 20 hours on it and all is well. I really like this tractor alot. My only complaint is the back is really light when the bucket is loaded. I will probably add weights or fill the tires when I replace them.

Thanks.

 

[BigE_]

Sounds like you got an excellent deal.

I bought my 2001 TC33D with 1100 hours or so on the clock (later found out it was turned backwards) with the 7308 loader for about $10k about 18 months ago. This one is a size down from yours. It didn't come with a QA bucket, either.

You definitely need to get the tires loaded. It made a world of difference for me. I also carry around my box blade on the back for added stability.

Check to make sure all the bulbs work, and make sure the low oil pressure line is connected. On mine, I had low oil pressure, so they removed the bulb before they sold it to me.

I purchased from a private party.

Enjoy your purchase!

Regards,
-Steve

 

[jjbath]

How could you tell it was turned back?

The low oil pressure light comes on when I start it and then goes out like the manual says.

Today I fixed the taillights. Neither was working and when I took them apart they had fallen apart. I guess from vibration. The metal bracket that holds the bulbs was just laying inside the housing. I put it back together and used some epoxy to hold it permanently.

I have a york rake, grader blade, rotary mower etc. that I put on to add weight. I was also thinking of making a counterweight using an old 55gal drum and some concrete.

 

[BigE_]

The way I could tell mine was turned back is that a.) it was disconnected, and b.) I could see the scratch marks on the numbers where they had used a knife or screwdriver to turn it back.

Yeah, you could do the 55 gallon weight - that would add a lot of stability. It was only $150 to get my tires filled though. Technically, I probably need new tires on mine, but the tread is good enough for what I do, so I'll just run it until the tires are gone.

-Steve

 

[jinman]

I have a york rake, grader blade, rotary mower etc. that I put on to add weight. I was also thinking of making a counterweight using an old 55gal drum and some concrete.

Congratulations on your purchase. I think you did fine.

I would sure suggest loading the rear tires. I ran my tractor for many years without loading the tires and after loading them, it made a world of difference. In my opinion, the problem with a ballast box is that it takes up space and does nothing else except put wear and tear on your 3PH. I'd put a boxblade or your grader blade on. With a loader, having a blade on the rear is a good choice because it is istantly available for use.

BTW: Any ballast you put on the 3PH not only puts stress on the 3PH, but it is also stress on the rear axle to carry that weight. Ballast in tires does not put any stress on the rear axle because it is weight being carried by the tire. The only thing the axle feels is resistance to lifting, which is exactly what you are wanting from ballast.

 

[jjbath]

I would definitely prefer not to add the weight to the 3pt. I don't want to fill the tires now only to replace them next year. On the other hand I've had the rear wheels off the ground a few times and that is a scary feeling. For now I just put on my york rake as I've been using it quite a bit.

I forgot to ask and I can't find any definitive info searching the forums either. How do I tell what year the tractor is? I assume its in the serial number but I can't tell where. The dealer said it was a 2004 but the date on the engine is 2003.

 

[jinman]

If you post the serial number here, somebody with the info may be able to tell you. Without that number for lookup, I don't think you can tell. I don't believe the date is in the number. I believe the tractors are just numbered serially, but I could be wrong.

What style of lights do you have? Are they the newer lights rather than the older, more square version?

If your tractor is a 2004, it is very likely the engine was manufactured in 2003. That does make sense. The engine was built by Shibaura in Japan and then shipped to Georgia for assembly in the Boomer assembly plant. All that takes time.

 

[jjbath]

I don't have the serial number at the moment but I do have the separate square headlights.

I'll post the Serial # a little later.

 

[jjbath]

I found 4 numbers on the plate.

Tractor number: G524836
Engine: 10102
Transmission: 3M37533

And another but I couldn't read what it was for because it was worn off.
3H28D

 

[jinman]

I found 4 numbers on the plate.

Tractor number: G524836
Engine: 10102
Transmission: 3M37533

And another but I couldn't read what it was for because it was worn off.
3H28D

My tractor's serial number is G502881. It was purchased in Feb. 2001, but was surely manufactured in 2000. I never consider the date of a tractor being significant, but rather style and major changes to models. When the TCs added the "A" designation, that is worthy of noting. Beyond that, the date doesn't mean much except when you consider whether the tractor is still under warranty or not. With your serial number, maybe someone here with the full info will give you the year of manufacture.