jbiller79
New member
What kind of sockets will I need to have. This is my first farm tractor. Is there a good list of general tools I need to pick up for maintenance that I probably don't currently have? thanks
Ultradog MN
Gold Member
It would be easier if you give us an inkling of what you already have for tools..
keony
Silver Member
I would buy an Operator's Manual. I found it invaluable.
Ultradog MN
Gold Member
I bought a cheap china made set of 3/4 drive sockets about 25 years ago that have helped me a lot on really tough stuff on my tractors. Last recourse before breaking out the Blue Wrench.
I've broke a few sockets, the ratchet and breaker bar over the years but have replaced them with good used USA made ones off ebay as needed. Look on craigslist for a set.
You will need a decent set of combination wrenches. 15/16" is commonly used.
Also a pair of 1 1/8" combination wrenches if you ever need to split the tractor - both at the front and rear end of the engine.
You will use 3/8" drive ratchets more than anything but I like to use a 1/4" drive set for reinstalling the tin, etc in tight places. Also a 3/8" swivel/u-joint and 2", and 6" extensions if you ever need to remove your starter or injector pump.
Fleeler gauges. Brake tool is nice but you can do it with a big screwdriver too.
3000 is a great tractor. Absolutely bullet proof, good new and used parts availability, easy to work on, etc.
What options did you get - gas or diesel? live pto? tranny?, power steering? differential lock?
Here is my own little sweetheart 3000. Built from parts from at least a dozen different tractors.
Some day I'll get around to repainting it.
I've broke a few sockets, the ratchet and breaker bar over the years but have replaced them with good used USA made ones off ebay as needed. Look on craigslist for a set.
You will need a decent set of combination wrenches. 15/16" is commonly used.
Also a pair of 1 1/8" combination wrenches if you ever need to split the tractor - both at the front and rear end of the engine.
You will use 3/8" drive ratchets more than anything but I like to use a 1/4" drive set for reinstalling the tin, etc in tight places. Also a 3/8" swivel/u-joint and 2", and 6" extensions if you ever need to remove your starter or injector pump.
Fleeler gauges. Brake tool is nice but you can do it with a big screwdriver too.
3000 is a great tractor. Absolutely bullet proof, good new and used parts availability, easy to work on, etc.
What options did you get - gas or diesel? live pto? tranny?, power steering? differential lock?
Here is my own little sweetheart 3000. Built from parts from at least a dozen different tractors.
Some day I'll get around to repainting it.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
don't get hung up on special tools till you need them. in some cases .. you might only need them once and can rent from the tool store.. or buy a cheap version from harbor freight.
Well I found out that it is actually a Ford 2000. I am a little disappointed but the 2000 should work fine. It has live PTO, gas, cab, which I am not sure I like yet. It will need a little work. I have had it working hard all weekend fixing roads with the box blade. It is night and day compared to the 49 8N we are used to using. We plant potatoes and other vegetables to sell at farmers markets. Next year we will bump up our potato crop to about 6,000 pounds of seed potatoes, 600 tomato plants, 5 acres of sweet corn etc etc. Should be fun now that I have a little stronger machine to help.
Ultradog MN
Gold Member
Not much difference between a 2000 and 3000.
They used the exact same 158CI engines on the gassers - just ran the 3000 about 150 rpms faster and maybe different jetting in the carb to get the 3 or 4 extra ponies.
I don't know when they made the change from round trumpets to square trumpets but other than that (no diff lock on the round trumpets) they are about the same.
By 73 or so they were so close to being identical I don't know why they continued to make both models.
It will eat an 8N's lunch for sure.
They used the exact same 158CI engines on the gassers - just ran the 3000 about 150 rpms faster and maybe different jetting in the carb to get the 3 or 4 extra ponies.
I don't know when they made the change from round trumpets to square trumpets but other than that (no diff lock on the round trumpets) they are about the same.
By 73 or so they were so close to being identical I don't know why they continued to make both models.
It will eat an 8N's lunch for sure.
wsc9tt
Silver Member
I had a '68 Ford 2000 for many years and it is a very solid tractor. A diff lock would be nice, but after a while you will be able to use the dual brakes instinctively to maintain traction.
I replaced the fuel pump when I got mine and then later the water pump when I didn't keep the antifreeze mixture right. :-(
I had problems for a couple years keeping the carb running nicely. Eventually I replaced the carb with a different model (zenith?) and that was a night and day difference. Always started, always ran strong after that.
Never needed any special tools but that kind of work, just normal wrenches and sockets.
I replaced the fuel pump when I got mine and then later the water pump when I didn't keep the antifreeze mixture right. :-(
I had problems for a couple years keeping the carb running nicely. Eventually I replaced the carb with a different model (zenith?) and that was a night and day difference. Always started, always ran strong after that.
Never needed any special tools but that kind of work, just normal wrenches and sockets.