Boomer 8N won't move

[spsteve]

I went out to use my 2010 Boomer 8N yesterday and found that the tractor starts right up but won't move an inch in either forward or reverse.

No error code but the 'hourglass' stays in the display ever after the tractor is started. I can't remember if it was there all of the time but I don't think so as I have seen other messages appear there like 'RP' and 'N'.

Waiting to hear back from the dealer.

 

[JC-jetro]

I'm sure glad your warranty has not expired yet. I bet ya it'll be something simple like a sensor/ interlock or such more in electronic nature.

Jc,

 

[wrenchguy]

Start your tractor and with the shifter in neutral,press the go pedal. If you don't get a "RP" code,you're likely to have a bad go-pedal. You can reboot your ADIC by removing the fuse for a minute or so then re-installing. It may help if it's some kind of computer glitch.

If you try the reboot,the tractor must be switched to "on".

 

[Soundguy]

.... reminds me of why I don't like fly by wire systems ...


soundguy

 

[tmajor]

Kind of sad that it's called an "8N". It doesn't sound like it has any resemblance. :thumbdown:

 

[Soundguy]

none whatsoever... in fact.. it's an anti-8n.

boomer 8n vs old 8n

diesel vs gas
live power, both pto and hyds vs non live
4wd vs 2wd
cvt tranny vs non synchro gear
rops vs no rops

list goes on and on.

about the only thing that is even remotely the same is there is some red / grey coloration and 2 letter in the 'name'


soundguy

 

[tmajor]

It seems, that they tried to capitalize on the fame of the "8N", which came from it's reliability, flexibility and workability. I doubt, that 9 out of 10 "8N"s sold, ever got back to the dealers for trouble or service. ... 60 years later, they are still running strong! :thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

what i doubt is that you will have the same 'surviving' percentage of boomer 8ns running around 50-70ys later as you now do have N's running around.
over 500K 8n's alone produced, and when you add in 9n and 2n production, you are pushing 3/4 of a mil...

and a HEFTY % of them still working...

soundguy

 

[spsteve]

Start your tractor and with the shifter in neutral,press the go pedal. If you don't get a "RP" code,you're likely to have a bad go-pedal. You can reboot your ADIC by removing the fuse for a minute or so then re-installing. It may help if it's some kind of computer glitch.

If you try the reboot,the tractor must be switched to "on".

Thanks for the suggestion. I disconnected the battery for a few hours and reconnected it. No change except for the clock went to zero and I probably erased the programming but it still won't move.

The engine revs when the 'go' pedal is depressed. The tractor 'knows' the shuttle lever is in forward or reverse because it does the shut down thing if I get off the seat with it out of neutral.

 

[wrenchguy]

If you tried the test I suggested with the shifter in neutral and got no warning on the cluster,your go-pedal is bad or has a connection problem. We had many bad pedals at the factory,that's what I base my theory on.

 

[spsteve]

If you tried the test I suggested with the shifter in neutral and got no warning on the cluster,your go-pedal is bad or has a connection problem. We had many bad pedals at the factory,that's what I base my theory on.

I start the tractor with the shifter in neutral and when I step on the 'go pedal' the rpm's go up but no 'RP'.

From what I remember the 'RP' would only appear if you then tried to move the shift lever into forward or reverse with the RPM's up. I tried this and no 'RP' then either. The tractor 'knows' the shift lever is being moved because it shuts down if I am not in the seat when shifting into forward or reverse.

The PTO works (the speed indicator for the PTO changes with the RPM's).

No word from the dealer yet but it's only been 24 hours.....

 

[wrenchguy]

Check the go-pedal connector to ensure it hasn't become disconnected. If it is connected,disconnect it and check both connectors for damaged wires or pins in the connectors that may have loosened and worked out of the connector bodies. Make sure the locks "snap" when you re-connect. If you don't find any problems like I just described it's very likely the pedal has gone bad.

With these units it's hard to know what the problems are so your dealer may have to use his diagnostic tool to check for any error codes that don't show up on the ADIC.

 

[Boomer3040]

I am betting on a bad pedal. I have a 3040 with the CVT. The RPMs are controlled by a physical cable on the "GO" pedal (so even if the electrical connector was completely disconnected, pressing the pedal will still change the RPMs). The movement is controlled by electronic signal.

I would definitely second the check of the connector on the pedal. I also noticed that the wires on my pedal are very exposed & easily damaged. They are a much finer wire than most of the others and are not protected by any type of wire/split loom.

Best of luck & let us know the outcome. I am sure the dealer will be able to figure it out quickly.

 

[spsteve]

I am betting on a bad pedal. I have a 3040 with the CVT. The RPMs are controlled by a physical cable on the "GO" pedal (so even if the electrical connector was completely disconnected, pressing the pedal will still change the RPMs). The movement is controlled by electronic signal.

I would definitely second the check of the connector on the pedal. I also noticed that the wires on my pedal are very exposed & easily damaged. They are a much finer wire than most of the others and are not protected by any type of wire/split loom.

Best of luck & let us know the outcome. I am sure the dealer will be able to figure it out quickly.

Thanks for the reply.

I checked the pedal connector and it looks ok. It was clean and all of the pins appear to be straight.

I checked all of the fuses as well.

Still waiting on the dealers call - now it's 48 hours ......

 

[Boomer-Sooner]

Thanks for the reply.

I checked the pedal connector and it looks ok. It was clean and all of the pins appear to be straight.

I checked all of the fuses as well.

Still waiting on the dealers call - now it's 48 hours ......

Did you have any luck determining the problem? I'm having the exact same issue on my tractor.

 

[cjvell]

Did anybody get a fix on this issue with the Boomer 8Ns. It only happens in cooler weather causing me to believe it has something to do with a hydraulic sensor. The engine starts up fine and it feels like the go pedal is engaging but tractor will only move forward and backward about 2" per minute. If I play around with it moving it back and forth for about 15 minutes it will sometimes come out of it almost like a sensor releases. The cooler weather has me leaning towards a hydraulic problem. Does anyone know if the hydraulic sensor would have anything to do with this

 

[Boomer-Sooner]

I haven't had any luck so far. New Holland Mechanic came out twice, but can't find the issue. Replaced a hydraulic pressure sensor - didn't work. Tried a new shuttle shifter and go pedal - neither fixed the issue. We are also noticing my gauges are acting oddly too.
Luckily they were able to keep the items in the packaging and didn't charge me. The go pedal is $1300 and the shuttle shifter is $350. I'm beginning to think it is the computer controller.