Bolting Chain Hook to Tractor Frame

[Beltzington]

I only trailer my tractor two or three times a year and it seems every time I do I spend an hour trying to secure the front chains. Last time I came up with a solution I have yet to try, do you see any safety or other issues?

There are two factory 3/8" holes one on each side of the front frame of the tractor, unfortunately the metal frame is to wide just to use a clevis. My thought is to just use a hook (picture) and replace the pin with a grade 8 bolt then just attach them perpendicular to the frame. The hook would swing freely front to back and would allow me good adjustable when hooking the my two front chains to the trailer tie-down points. I tension the whole load using two rear chains and binders as the FEL is a real pain to work around.

I already own the grade 70 chains and binders just looking for a better way to attach them at the front.

 

[Rustyiron]

Could you fit a clevis in each hole or possibly drill out each hole to 1/2 or bigger for a bigger clevis? That way you could just thread a chain through them to your attachment points on the trailer. My 2nd choice would be to bolt a slip hook with an eye vs. a clevis.
Then there's the nylon eye/eye straps the you could wrap the axle with, you'll need a clevis @ each eye to run your chain through. Chain to nylon directly will damage the nylon eye.

 

[George2615]

My frame had two holes on each side. I found they were the right spacing to bolt on D-rings. Now I can drop chains through them to secure on the the trailer.

 

[TractorGuy]

I would be Leary of bolting a clevis to the frame without a link to allow it to pivot. A weld on clevis may work or just use a couple of chain links on it.

 

[Rock Crawler]

How about something like this?

 

[Beltzington]

Could you fit a clevis in each hole or possibly drill out each hole to 1/2 or bigger for a bigger clevis? That way you could just thread a chain through them to your attachment points on the trailer. My 2nd choice would be to bolt a slip hook with an eye vs. a clevis.
Then there's the nylon eye/eye straps the you could wrap the axle with, you'll need a clevis @ each eye to run your chain through. Chain to nylon directly will damage the nylon eye.

The one hole per side is actually above the center of the frame rail, so the problem is clearance from the clevis pin hole to the bottom of the clevis, I have an old 1/2" clevis and it was still 3/4" to shallow to fit. I did find a specialized 6" deep 3/8" clevis online but it was ridiculously expensive.

Your 2nd choice would work but I would need at least 3-links per side and prefer the not having the hooks bouncing into the paint and plastic hood when using the tractor.

Other folks solutions make sense I just don't see the point in drilling more holes or welding if not needed, existing holes are right where I need them just wondering if a grade 8 bolt has enough strength for the for vertical load. A picture would be helpful but I don't have a hook yet. The sequence would be:

3" bolt thru hook eye, washer, inside nut, washer, frame, washer, lock washer, nut.

Thanks

 

[Fallon]

I put clevises through some holes in the front "bumper". I had clevises through holes in the frame back between the tires & 3pt. Those were a pain to hook or pull chain through. I ended up removing the drawbar I never use & put a clevis through the 2 holes that you pun the drawbar through.

 

[bcp]

Limited to one hole, I would make this, but I would like to see a larger hole than 3/8 for the attachment bolt. I would use 3/8 x 1.5 material.

Bolt it barely tightly to the frame, put a chain clevis in the bottom hole. Load and tie your tractor, then tighten the mounting bolt at that angle.



Bruce

 

[ddbackhoe]

There are two factory 3/8" holes one on each side of the front frame of the tractor, unfortunately the metal frame is to wide just to use a clevis. My thought is to just use a hook (picture) and replace the pin with a grade 8 bolt then just attach them perpendicular to the frame.

Sure, no reason it shouldn’t work. Or just weld hooks to the frame.

Proof Load Tensil Strength For Grade 2, 5, & 8

 

[ddbackhoe]

How about something like this?

That is a good looking accessory. :thumbsup: