Bolens Iseki FEL build

badboyrcg70 · Jan 29, 2018

Thought I would post up my FEL build.
I tried for 2 years to find an original 1517 loader for this tractor but found none.
So I bought an older FEL an am modifying it for mine.
Fabrication is almost done need to modify hydraulic lines and replace dry rotted lines off the old model.
I also found an agg tire combo to replace the turf tires.

texasranger556 · Jan 29, 2018

Wow I had to study the pictures for a while to see all modifications you made. It looks like it fits well. It looks like it is bolted solid or did you manage to hide a quick attach in there somewhere?

Make sure you have a lot of ballast when you fill up that bucket!

badboyrcg70 · Feb 7, 2018

Installed hydraulic block and hoses with quick disconnects up to the control valve.
Had to replace 1 of the hoses on the control valve due to dry rotting.

Cross brace finished which is also where hard lines will sit

Next need to modify hard lines.

Looks better with the grill installed

badboyrcg70 · Feb 7, 2018

texasranger556 said:
Wow I had to study the pictures for a while to see all modifications you made. It looks like it fits well. It looks like it is bolted solid or did you manage to hide a quick attach in there somewhere?

Make sure you have a lot of ballast when you fill up that bucket!

Nope no quick disconnect there. Will have to remove 12 bolts to take it off.
I had to cut 16" off the lift arms when I modified it. Bucket has been shortened 6" per side
and now measures 51" across. Uprights were shortened and plates made to attach to tractor mount which I fabricated using templates I made from someone who had an original 1517 loader.
Rear tires are filled with washer fluid and I have wheel weights and some suitcase weights to add ballast if needed
but I really don't want to over load it so Ill stick to 6-700 lb max load.

Kernopelli · Feb 8, 2018

Nice job! I did a similar project on my Mitsubishi. I found a Freeman FEL frame at the local scrap yard. I built the bucket, uprights and subframe from drop cuts I found there and bought a Ford joystick control valve and cylinders on Ebay. I had to cut the lift arms down and narrow it since it had obviously come from a much larger tractor. To take it off, I have a small "gantry" (actually an old porch swing frame) that I drive under and support the loader arms with ratchet straps, pull the lift arm pins and 4 quick disconnects at the valve and back away. It is quick and easy. The subframe, uprights and valve stay on the tractor but it has never created any kind of issue. Has worked great for about 10 years now.

badboyrcg70 · Feb 10, 2018

Hard lines cut down and secured with weld nuts.
Now got to get the rest of the hoses.

PILOON · Feb 10, 2018

Nice work, I like successful DIY work around projects.

If no mistaken the engine is probably a Mitsubishi 3 cylinder like I have in my MT180D.
Actually the tractor could be a rebadgered Mitsu.as I know they did some for Bolens as well as some Fords.

Saitcho · Feb 12, 2018

Nice job! Make sure you look into adding a tooth-bar on that thing, I built one based on the piranha tooth bar design and its doing great. Do you plan to add ROPS in a near future? Tractor + loader = a lot more way for things to go bad in a hurry....

badboyrcg70 · Feb 12, 2018

TY

I will look into getting one. Need to build a scraper blade for the rear next.
As far as the ROPS go I am 47 on the waiting list for ROPS rebate grant funding.
I have tried to find an original but for what they want I might as well buy the Hercules fold down version.
Hopefully in the next year Ill get the call. I went from 75 to 47 in 6 months.