Black Locust fence posts

   / Black Locust fence posts #1  

feedjake

Bronze Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
55
Location
Central Ohio
Tractor
John Deere LA120
Howdy everyone, I'm trying to figure out with the Black Locust tree's I'm planning on cutting down for fence posts... when I put them in the ground, should I leave the bark on them, or strip the bark off before setting them? By the way the trees are about 6-10 inches in diameter if that matters.
 
   / Black Locust fence posts #2  
less work to just leave the bark on them. I don't think it would make any difference longevity wise but I'm unaware of any formal studies. I've seen many that are well over 20 years old and still sturdy. Don't recall ever knocking/shaving off the bark.
 
   / Black Locust fence posts #3  
Take the bark off - fewer bugs. My buddy has been felling and sawing locust for the last few years. Swears they make the best posts and will last 75-100 years...
 
   / Black Locust fence posts
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thank you for the replies! Another question I have, is if I take the bark off. is it better to wait until it's cured naturally, then scrape off the bark, or does it help the curing if I remove the bark right after I take it down? I was planning on taking them down in the next month, and letting them "cure" for about six months before installing in the ground. Thank again guys!
 
   / Black Locust fence posts #5  
Take the bark off right after you cut them. Then you can peel the bark off in strips. Most of the time the bark peels off easy.
 
   / Black Locust fence posts #6  
Thank you for the replies! Another question I have, is if I take the bark off. is it better to wait until it's cured naturally, then scrape off the bark, or does it help the curing if I remove the bark right after I take it down? I was planning on taking them down in the next month, and letting them "cure" for about six months before installing in the ground. Thank again guys!

Yes. If you let them cure they will last longer. Also, "they" say if you char(burn in a fire and quench) the ends if will further help against fungi and rot. It's an early form of creosote and the reference is from an 1880 farm manual I have.

Good luck...
 
   / Black Locust fence posts #7  
Agree, definitely remove the bark. Previous owner did not remove bark and we have some posts that are in poor shape.

Ken
 
   / Black Locust fence posts
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Excellent! Again thanks to all who cared enough to comment! My neighbor thinks I'm doing too much work for posts that might rot in a year or two. I hope to be able to say 'look at these solid posts' in about 10 years from now. It is sounding like (and making sense) that if I strip the bark off quickly, it might allow for quicker drying? Which the more reading I do the more I am learning that curing, (drying) is really the key when it comes to natural wooden fence posts. Thanks again all! God Bless!
 
   / Black Locust fence posts #9  
Dad used peeled locust post for years, never did really last long considering the time required to build all that fence. I suggest, bit the bullet and buy round pressure treated post and be done with it.

mark
 
   / Black Locust fence posts #10  
Dad used peeled locust post for years, never did really last long considering the time required to build all that fence. I suggest, bit the bullet and buy round pressure treated post and be done with it.

mark

Black locust, or HONEY locust? There is quite a difference in the two.

The USFS lists the following species as being the most rot resistent, even in the top category:

Highly resistant:
Black locust
red mulberry
Osage Orange
Pacific Yew.

Honey locust is in the moderate resistance category.

See:
www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplrn/fplrn153.pdf

BTW, it does mention that rot resistance ONLY applies to the heartwood of all species, not to the sapwood.

Ken
 

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