Big Boo Boo - Broke my loader - need help

[JPVV]

Hi,

I was driving my tractor and made a big boo boo - I wanted to make sure bucket was empty, so uncurled bucket fully and then messed up and put loader down into dirt while moving forward at good clip - heard a pop and now my loader will not curl up at all. Trying to do too much too quickly!

I managed to get the bucket off, but still no curl upwards. No leaking fluid at all. Cylinder rod looks good - not obviously bent or damaged. When I try to lift up on quick attach to manually curl it back, the rod goes about 1.5" into cylinder and won't go any more. I have done a little searching and it seems like I may have a "broken piston rod end", but I don't really know much about hydraulic cylinders, so not sure where to go from here.

Tractor is L3940 and loader is L724. Any help appreciated!

 

[Gary Fowler]

Regardless of the problem with the cylinder, you have to take it apart to find out. It could have stripped the nut, or broke the rod. A good shop can fix it much cheaper than you can buy a new one by installing a new rod as long as the cylinder bore isn't scarred up.

 

[ovrszd]

I agree with Gary. Sounds like you yanked the rod out of the cylinder seal gland inside the tube. Could be just one.

Unpin the cylinders from the QA plate end (rod end). See if you can pull either rod out of the barrel. Might require a bit of twisting to get it to slide on the tube end seal gland. The broke one will pull apart. It'll be messy and will dump hyd fluid all over everything including you if you stand in the wrong spot.

 

[Dave M7040]

This is what the cylinder parts look like.

A complete cylinder is $750.

Each cylinder part of the broken cylinder is going to have to be evaluated.Hope that only one cylinder got damaged.
1, Is push rod bent.
2 Is cylinder tube distorted i.e. bulged out
3 Is gland nut distorted or cracked
4. Is piston in good condition.

While you can remove and decide which or both cylinders are damaged, the assessment and repair is best left to a professional hydraulics shop.

Dave M7040

 

[JPVV]

Thank you for all replies!

Should I just take both the cylinders off and bring to shop or is there a way to test each one while still on machine and only take off the bad one?

 

[EddieWalker]

Here where I live, there is a hydraulic cylinder repair shop that is a lot cheaper they any of the dealers. In fact, my dealer told me about them because that's who they send their cylinder rebuilds to, and then they add their time to the bill after paying the shop to do the work. A rebuild kit from my dealer includes parts for a variety of models, which never get used on that specific cylinder. On average, those kits cost just over $100. Sometimes you have to buy a new piston too, which can add another hundred bucks to the parts bill. Then there is your time to do it yourself, and I've done enough to know it's not a fun project.

They cylinder shop buys just the parts that you need and rarely spends over $5 for parts. Labor is $100 and all you do is bring in the cylinder to them, and then pick it up in a few days when it's done. They are easy to take off and install again, so that's not a big deal at all.

Ask around if you do not already know where a shop is at. For me, it's worth the time in finding a place like this.

 

[Dave M7040]

Thank you for all replies!

Should I just take both the cylinders off and bring to shop or is there a way to test each one while still on machine and only take off the bad one?

If you get caps/plugs to seal the hydraulic lines that you disconnect, the bucket will operate on one cylinder to allow you to test.

Dave M7040

 

[JPVV]

Thanks for the help! Are the caps a standard size or does anyone know what size they are? Is this something I need to go to dealer for or could I find at Tractor supply? Thanks!

 

[Dave M7040]

Thanks for the help! Are the caps a standard size or does anyone know what size they are? Is this something I need to go to dealer for or could I find at Tractor supply? Thanks!

After more thinking, I suggest your first step is to disconnect the cylinders from the bucket.

Now they will work independently and it may be more apparent if one is extending or retracting with more difficulty than the other.

As far a plugging the two lines for further tests, I suggest you go to a local hydraulics place armed with some photos.

However, the first test may make further tests unnecessary

Dave M7040

 

[Fallon]

If you leave the busted cylinder attached but capped the ports, it will mess up your testing. You'd need to remove it completely & cap the lines on the tractor.

Personally I'd just remove one or both cylinders & take them to a hydraulic shop. You know you broke something & it's not leaking externally so its VERY likely to be internal damage.

I'm very mechanically inclined & have a decent theoretical knowledge of how cylinders are put together but wouldn't tackle this myself. A hydraulic shop would have a normal rebuild sorted out in under an hour with parts on the shelf in the shop. I'd spend several hours trying to figure out what rebuild parts to order or spending way more on a kit from Kubota. That doesnt even factor in replacing things other than normal wear items. DIY when you can, but know your limits and/or the value of your time.

Most mechanics or what not charge way more to fix a basket case that you've done half way (and likely misplaced parts for) than just for something that broke.