best time for 2,4 D

[docjon]

I have 40 acres that used to be peanut patch and has never been replanted or worked in 20 years. My intentions are to replant in native grasses here in NE okla. I want to spray for weeds and kill my record crop of ragweed this spring but wondering best time to spray. I am intending on discing this than broadcasting the seed then packing it after this, I am also planning on using some chicken litter for fertilizer soil studies were done last year. Any other suggestions would be helpful! Overall there is approx 100 acres to spray.

 

[charlz]

24d only kills broad leaf weeds, are there no 'weed' grasses in there you want to kill as well? Most people use generic Roundup for a chemical 'burn down'. I have some stuff that neither will kill on its own so I tank mix the two together... pricey at the volume you would need.

 

[AchingBack]

docjon, here is what I would do for best results. Disc your field in the spring, after the weeds have sprouted. Then plant your seed. I wouldn't waste my money on 2,4 D, in fact, I hate the stuff. If you currently have a standing dead crop of pigweed, you could also shred that before discing. That will put more humus in the soil. Overall, at least out west, the best time to plant native grasses is in the fall when there is little to no weed growth taking place.

 

[blueriver]

Do you have Bermuda grass in this field? In Oklahoma bermuda grass is good ... Here I take a certain area, subsoil it to allow air, moisture into the ground, subsoiling will also distrube the bermuda sprigs for a better stand. Then I spray with liguid nitrogen with 1 pint to the acre of Grazon ... resulting in a real nice field of Bermuda Grass. I start the subsoiling in February and spray the end of April the first of May. I try to spray the day before a forecasted rain.

 

[Retired Iron Peddler]

Do you have Bermuda grass in this field? In Oklahoma bermuda grass is good ... Here I take a certain area, subsoil it to allow air, moisture into the ground, subsoiling will also distrube the bermuda sprigs for a better stand. Then I spray with liguid nitrogen with 1 pint to the acre of Grazon ... resulting in a real nice field of Bermuda Grass. I start the subsoiling in February and spray the end of April the first of May. I try to spray the day before a forecasted rain.

My pasture had been abused for many years by the previous absentee owner and renters. It was a real weed patch until I started cleaning it up.

I agree, Grazon is much better than using 2,4,D. Not only will Grazon eliminate the weeds growing, the picloram in Grazon will help control weeds that sprout after spraying the pasture. If you have woody sprouts like persimmon, and/or tough weeds like silver leaf nightshade, add some Remedy to the tank mix according the the label. Be sure to use a surfactant which makes the herbicide more effective. I've had very good results eliminiating bull nettles, silver leaf nightshade, rag weed, pigweed, and curly dock along with persimmon sprouts from my Bermuda grass pasture.

I also agree with using liquid nitrogen on my pasture. I don't use chicken litter for fertilizer. The noxious weed seeds in the feed grain used to make chicken feed will pass through the chicken's digestive system and out in your pasture... more weed problems.

Bill

 

[Farmwithjunk]

First I'll try to answer the question as opposed to making other suggestions. 2-4D works BEST when applied to an actively growing, post germination plant. It does have some residual value once in the soil, giving it SOME (very limited) pre-emergent value, but that requires quite heavy application rates to be effective. As mentioned, it is a treatment for BROADLEAF weeds only. It won't touch grasses unless you over-apply. Then it can (and will) burn grass. It's HIGHLY recommended that you NEVER over-apply ANY pesticide, deliberately or accidentally.

I've had good results applying 2-4D in early spring, just as the problem weeds begin to emerge. Ideally, you want to eliminate weeds BEFORE they have the opportunity to re-seed themselves. However, I have treated pastures with a light dose of 2-4D in the fall, then again in early spring, after last years crop of weed seed has re-emerged. It's always been my experience that 2 applications is better than one. Applying at overly high rates to get a complete kill in one application may be harmfull to any desired crop/grass you have.

Grazon was mentioned already. It's a better alternative, but is a restricted use chemical in some states, making it unavailable to those areas unless you have proper certification.

 

[skipperbrown]

Planting 100 ac of native grass in a weed field is a big, expensive project. I'd contact your local ag extension agent for recommendations. You might be better off waiting until next fall or spraying w/ roundup and no till drilling (or both). You are going to disturb a huge amount of dormant seeds if you disk.

Also, cruise over to the quality deer mgt as (QDMA) forum and ask this question over there. There are several guys in your hood that have experience w/ native grasses.

 

[sixdogs]

Doc,
I looked at your profile and it mentioned "preparing farm for cattle." So let me assume that and tell you what I did.
We lived in New England and I bought a large farm that was getting lots of alder/poplar growth and more weeds than I could identify. I was all set to embark on a spray and plow program when my neighbor suggested I put the cows (beef) in first and let them eat the brush and weeds.
Well, they ate bushes and small trees and most weeds and grass. A year later I followed up with 2-4-D and had great results with substantially less effort than anticipated.
Just my two cents and it worked for me.

 

[Retired Iron Peddler]

Grazon was mentioned already. It's a better alternative, but is a restricted use chemical in some states, making it unavailable to those areas unless you have proper certification.

I have my certification and with it I'm able to obtain legally the specialty herbicides necessary to control weeds and brush in my pasture. To get my certification, I had to attend an all day class, take and pass the examination, and pay a nominal license fee. Also it requires that I attend continuing education classes annually, which amounts to one day per year, and keep records of the herbicides used, the application rates, and the weather conditions on the day of application. For me, the benefits of having the certification out weighs the time required to attend classes and keep records.

Bill

 

[oliver28472]

If you are going to plant native grass you might check with your local NRCS to see if they have any cost share assistance.