Best Steel Finish

[rockshaft]

I've never been all that impressed with various methods/products I've used to protect steel equipment. Would *love* to hear what has given good results for anyone else.

Products I've used:
Rustoleum
Zinc Sel
Rusty metal primer
Clean metal primer
Industrial
Hammerite

Seems like the best case scenario for me has been applying numerous thin coats of both primer and topcoat (on a nicely prepared surface)- but even then, after about 1 year outside, I usually start seeing rust staining coming through (flaking to sure to follow)

Its almost enough to drive me to use more aluminum- but I love the ease and cost of using steel.

I realize powder coating is nice- but rarely is it practical or friendly to the pocketbook.

Is this refinishing on a 1-2year cycle the best I can expect?

 

[Baby Grand]

Best steel treatment I know of is a barn that's built on a dry spot with good air movement. In this environment I've seen steel form a thin surface oxidation and then stop. It's like a mummy.

I'm wondering if you're doing adequate surface prep before priming and waiting 'til coats have dried sufficienly before applying more paint.

 

[rockshaft]

Best steel treatment I know of is a barn that's built on a dry spot with good air movement. In this environment I've seen steel form a thin surface oxidation and then stop. It's like a mummy.

I'm wondering if you're doing adequate surface prep before priming and waiting 'til coats have dried sufficienly before applying more paint.

I usually clean steel with a detergent (even windex) then wipe it down with paint thinner. I only paint in the right weather conditions.

Steel with light rust looks ok, but if you don't keep it dry it will eventually get a lot worse.

I'm welding together a new brushbar for my truck- I'm hoping someone has a new suggestion for me to keep this looking sharp for longer than 1-2years

 

[crash325]

Expensive but it works. Zinc Chromate is as good as it gets. 2 Coats before painting and it is good for years. Don't expect good protection from a Rattle Can.

Bare metal & wood wiped down with linseed oil holds up pretty well. Wipe things down a couple times a year. Quick & Easy. Farmers used this stuff for many years. It cooks off to a fairly hard finish and if kept out of the rain will really last.

If you own a gun chances are it has a linseed oil finish. I refinished a rifle stock almost 60 years ago and it is still good.

 

[rockshaft]

Expensive but it works. Zinc Chromate is as good as it gets. 2 Coats before painting and it is good for years. Don't expect good protection from a Rattle Can.

Bare metal & wood wiped down with linseed oil holds up pretty well. Wipe things down a couple times a year. Quick & Easy. Farmers used this stuff for many years. It cooks off to a fairly hard finish and if kept out of the rain will really last.

If you own a gun chances are it has a linseed oil finish. I refinished a rifle stock almost 60 years ago and it is still good.

Yeah, a dude at the local steel yard recently recommended I try that Zn paint as a primer. But I've used Rustoleum Zinc Sele before (same thing I believe) and I remember reading on the can it said not for topcoating. Worth a try anyway.

IME I've had slightly better results with a rattle can than with paint from a regular can. I always attributed this to the thinner coats I could apply with the rattle can.

 

[strum456]

Two words: Epoxy Primer

 

[rockshaft]

Two words: Epoxy Primer

Are you recommending a two-part kit? I've worked with a fair amount of fiberglass and resin in my time. I haven't seen any epoxy primer outside the boat stores, though I suppose what you are recommending might be available at Napa or other similar auto-parts store?

I tend to think of the "epoxy" rattle can paints as a marketing gimmick- I don't see how they can be equivalent to a resin/hardener product which chemically cures.

 

[strum456]

Epoxy primer is a two part kit, as you mentioned. It is available at any automotive paint store. Like anything else, you get what you pay for.

I use Southern Polyurethanes epoxy. IMO, it is the best at ANY price, and it is cheaper than most! If intrested, you can get more information at www.southernpoylurethanes.com. I use it all the time and I can assure you that you will not be disappointed (provided you follow the tech. sheet for application procedures and surface prep).

 

[rockshaft]

Thanks. I'm going to look and see what I can find. I wonder how it compares to cost of powder coating?

 

[strum456]

It is about $160 for two gallons (one gallon activatior and one gallon primer). You can get it in quarts too (half gallon total).

This stuff is as bullet proof as anything I have ever seen. When cured, it sands great too. Most restorers I know use it exclusively on any bare metal that they are going to paint.