Buying Advice Best small tractor or garden tractor for slopes

[Appleguy]

Hey everyone, I just purchased a few acres that has a small orchard on it and plan to expand the number of trees also terrace some of the property to have a productive garden. I want to make the most of this property.
I'm looking for a small tractor or garden tractor that can handle the slopes it will need to mow up and down a hilly sloped terrain around trees and open field, also have a pto for other accessories as I find I need probably a tiller, pull a wagon for compost and supplies, possibly and end loader.
Any suggestions? I'm open to everyones ideas.
Thanks

 

[jeff9366]

I just purchased a few acres ~~HOW MANY ACRES?~~ that has a small orchard ~~WHAT SIZE ORCHARD, NOW/FUTURE?~~ I plan to expand the number of trees also terrace some of the property to have a productive garden. ~~WHAT SIZE TERRACE, WHAT SIZE GARDEN?~~ DO YOU DESIRE TO CREATE TERRACE YOURSELF OR HIRE TERRACING OUT? ~~
I'm looking for a small tractor or garden tractor that can handle the slopes it will need to mow up and down a hilly sloped terrain around trees and open field, ~~WHAT IS YOUR TRACTOR BUDGET?~~WILL YOU PERFORM YOUR OWN TRACTOR SERVICE AND REPAIRS?~~

Without question, plan for a Front End Loader. (FEL)


Tractors with small front wheels and large rear wheels are inherently unstable.

Perhaps you should consider U.S. tractors with equal size wheels all around. Brands: Ventrac, Steiner, Power Trac. These are relatively low production, higher cost machines BUT STABLE.

MORE: Google

 

[Texasmark]

Hey everyone, I just purchased a few acres that has a small orchard on it and plan to expand the number of trees also terrace some of the property to have a productive garden. I want to make the most of this property.
I'm looking for a small tractor or garden tractor that can handle the slopes it will need to mow up and down a hilly sloped terrain around trees and open field, also have a pto for other accessories as I find I need probably a tiller, pull a wagon for compost and supplies, possibly and end loader.
Any suggestions? I'm open to everyones ideas.
Thanks

I spent the last 38 years trying to answer that question and I may have finally done it. I use a Husqvarna 46" hydro, big box store machine with a 20 hp BS V twin. I put studded snow tires on the front and rear for traction in drive and traction in steering uphill.....turfs can't grab and just slide down hill but snow studs will hold and steer very well. The hood is removed for weight reduction.

On the straight away, you ride just like any other mower and mow like any other mower. On the hills I just slide over to the "upper" half of the seat....centering "myself" over the up hill corner and the machine is at a 30 degree angle while I am sitting vertical. Steering and pedal control are a no brainer.

The 20 hp and the Tough Torque transaxle provide plenty of power to walk you up the banks, perfect control down the banks and a no brainer going parallel to them.

Just noticed that SLE equipment is having a closeout on that particular mower right now with no tax and no shipping for $1700. Go to an ATV site and get you some studded snow tires for about #300, take the front cowling off, and you have yourself a mowing machine for not all that much money.

Doubt you'll be sorry.

 

[AxleHub]

Hey everyone, I just purchased a few acres that has a small orchard on it and plan to expand the number of trees also terrace some of the property to have a productive garden. I want to make the most of this property.
I'm looking for a small tractor or garden tractor that can handle the slopes it will need to mow up and down a hilly sloped terrain around trees and open field, also have a pto for other accessories as I find I need probably a tiller, pull a wagon for compost and supplies, possibly and end loader.
Any suggestions? I'm open to everyones ideas.
Thanks

Appleguy. There are so many variables you aren't including that will make a difference in decisions but here is a summary of my opinion:

If you want to cut with a riding mower and you have hills - I personally would not use the traditional zero turn RIDER because most of them have no controls or braking on the front wheels and create scary moments - you will pop wheelies ever so often or runaway issues. There are exceptional unique mowers like one particular model of Dixie Chopper that looks more like an ATV than a mower - but then you're talking serious money. Instead after years of researching, I chose a Cub Cadet 1050I zero turn TRACTOR (I didn't say rider). You'll need to find one used - but they were a premium lawn/garden tractor designed to be for hills. Not 4wd - they have 2 rear differentials - one for each rear wheel. Its weight balance is superior for hills because it was designed for lawns with hills. Engine braking with the hydro is excellent and the 1050I will not tear up lawn but it will climb it or descend it with good engine braking and good sidehill traction too. 2 differentials give you a traction just not even close to possible with a normal single differential. 25 hp kohler motor for power etc.. (also were made with 18 hp and 20 hp kohler engines). If you want more info - I have threads on the Cub Cadet forum that detail things. And they are affordable now ($4,000 when new) - but used I got my 2011 with 50 hrs on it for less than $2500. Last year of production was late 2011/early 2012. Zero turn but its a tractor - not a rider - and that is a big definition and appearance difference.

But you stated also you want a Front End Loader. That makes perfect sense for an orchard use. I assume because of the hills and size of typical orchard trees - you would want a sub-compact. You might consider a Kubota BX18 series sub compact because it is the smallest sub compact tractor size I'm familiar with but has a proven engine, FEL and 3 PT hitch (for spraying purposes and weight balancing). The BX1870 or BX2670 was my original plan - until I direct compare/tested the Massey GC1705/1715 series sub compact tractors to the Kubota BX units on hills and sidehills. I found the Massey GC had a turning radius only a couple inches different than the BX1870 but I felt more stable on inclines with the Massey GC1715 than I did on the Kubota BX products. In addition the fel on the Massey has a considerably higher weight lifting capability (DL95 model). And turf tires will climb the hills easily yet not tear up the lawns or create erosion issues (a big deal in orchards). One last thought - the GC1705 or GC1715 has a lower rops for your tree issues. Of course if you need a backhoe - then you have to have the higher rops height.

You can find many articles in the Massey forums that talk about the details of these products I've mentioned as well as Kubota BX discussions in the Kubota forums.


This is just a summary of two types of units I chose for my lawns with hills and my many varied needs for winter snows. Why did I get both? Long story and this is just a summary LOL.

 

[Appleguy]

Hi Jeff9366,
This is going to be my early retirement life
I'm working towards. I'm rehabbing the house right now and has about 3 open acres to work with, about 20+/- fruit trees. The gardens going to be about an acre for now and I'll pay someone to terrace the hills, I'm still figuring that one out. My budget is around 5K and I plan on doing any maintenance myself I'm pretty mechanically inclined so I feel confident with that.

 

[Appleguy]

Hi AxleHub,
Have you any knowledge of the Husqvarna R322T AWD 41" Combi 103 Deck Articulating Riding Mower, its in my price range, less expensive that a Stein. How about a UTV? I saw one that Lowes sold but do not carry anymore, the reviews were awful, UTV with belly mower, gas/electric combo.

 

[Appleguy]

Anyone have any knowledge or experience of the Husqvarna R322T AWD 41" Combi 103 Deck Articulating Riding Mower, its in my price range, less expensive that a Stein. How about a UTV? I saw one that Lowes sold but do not carry anymore, the reviews were awful, UTV with belly mower. The grass is growing fast. Yikes!

 

[Texasmark]

Going to be hard pressed to beat a $2k deal. Besides the deck is 4" high, stamped steel with all edges smooth. There are only 2 blades. Even on wet, thick grass you are hard pressed to clog the deck and have to wash it out. That's another reason I like it....I can mow in the mornings when it's cool. The welded decks, especially the 3 blade, just get bogged down with goo. You said your money is elsewhere now so waiting till later may be in your best interest to drop serious coins and you will have this experience under your belt and that will help you when you upgrade. Who knows, by then you may have worn it out. Good luck.

 

[Tractorable]

I researched the Husqvarna R322T articulating riding mower before purchasing my JD X590. I think in your situation mowing an orchard it would be a really good choice for you.

With the mower deck out front and the near zero turning radius you'll be able to get under and around the trees without getting knocked off by branches. The AWD will be good for for your hills.

I'm not sure what kind of transmission it has in it, but if it's an HST make sure it's a strong one.

Of course, the R322T would only be for mowing so if you want a loader you're going to need a second machine.

 

[AxleHub]

Because I've never driven a 322T I looked up the product. Here is the link

Husqvarna Riders R 322T AWD

In looking at the information, I am confused why this would be a good unit in orchards for the following reasons:

1. The unit certainly is unique - but a bit misleading. It says its all wheel drive - but only 4 of the 6 wheels are powered from what I can see while the front wheels are fixed caster wheels . In addition - only 4 of the 6 wheels have tread or some surface that can provide traction. It would seem a problem on sidehills which every orchard I've ever walked or been in, has.

2. Its maximum cutting height is 3 inches and its minimum cutting height is 1 inch. These are golf course and "park" type machines. On hills, cutting grass takes torque because the engine is both cutting grass and simultaneously clawing its way upward against gravity; but if you are trying to cut normal growth grasses which easily are going to be much taller than 3 inches - you will have considerably greater drag on the engine if the grass is 5 or 6 inches tall and cutting it down to 3 inches or lower.

3. This unit claims it works well in wet or on slopes. Yet the front of the unit appears to be designed for smooth ground - again like golf courses or parks would offer.

4. "All Wheel drive" = 4 wheel drive in this unit. However the 4 wheels are very close together being all positioned in the back of the unit. I can imagine on a flat terrain that the 4 wheels driving in a straight line would have very good traction. However in non-level terrain with wheels so close together - needed turning activities under those conditions could have some unique handling issues because all the traction (tires and wheels) and drive efforts and steering efforts are located in a relatively small wheelbase area.

This unit might be just dandy - but I see no grab handles, no rops, and no sense of sidehill handling or being able to "pull straight" - only "push straight". Like I say, it would be a neat unit to test drive on my flat lawn areas or even hesitatingly test going straight up and down one of my hills. But personally, I'd not feel confident on 1/3rd to 1/2 of my normal cutting areas.

just my humble opinion