Belt driven Hydraulic Pump, manufacturer and specs needed.

[aczlan]

Have a hydraulic pump that I picked up this summer (came with a Truxcavator backhoe: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/427123-backhoe-3-point-trailer.html ), hoping to find out a little more about it.
Pictures:






The owners manual says not to run it over 1500RPM continuously, or 1700RPM intermittently.
Trying to figure out if that is due to RPM limits of the pump, or because they reduced the ports on the pump down to so much.

Anyone have any suggestions on where to look? Should be 1970s or 1980s vintage from the dates in the manual (was intended for a Ford pickup when they still ran V belts).

Thanks

Aaron Z

 

[user.69169]

Cheap & dirty PTO pump for short run time applications like tow truck or winch truck. Dem pumps made 1 ton tow trucks lot cheaper comin from manufacturer. Not instant delivery when clutched in, different from snow plow pump. Mihght have electric clutch so not design for goin down road pumping.

First job you got is make sure it pumps and make pressure against restriction.

Don't pull ports till you sure pump don't have internal relief. Disassemble inside big plastic bag to maybe catch flying parts.

Pump like dat needs good size oil tank wid filter between tank & suction. Depending on work decent oil cooler before tank inlet good idea too.

 

[aczlan]

You mean I should use a tank bigger than the 8"x8"x8" cube that came with it?
Stage one will be the pump running off of a motor using a 2ish gallon tank that I have on hand.
If that's not big enough, I have a boat tank that could be used.
As for a cooler, if I end up needing one, all aluminum radiators speced for a Civic are pretty cheap on eBay, some even come with electric fan and screw in ports. Would probably need an alternator if going that route though as I don't think that the 10 amp starter generator that I have would be able to run a cooling fan for too long.

1500PSI relief valve is in the control valve, not the pump per the manual.
The tank I have as a electric solenoid valve on it with a pressure switch. Might hook that up to control the relay that engages the clutch so that if the pressure spikes it disengages the clutch, we'll see might not use the solenoid valve for this project, might just use the double acting spool valve that I have on the shelf.

Aaron Z

 

[wdchyd]

https://www.parker.com/Literature/Gear Pump/P16_Catalog.pdf

Parker/Dana gear pump.

Still in production

 

[wdchyd]

https://www.parker.com/Literature/Pump & Motor Division/Service Manuals/PDFs/P16_ServiceManuals.pdf

 

[wdchyd]

.878 cid......max 3600 rpm

 

[aczlan]

Excellent, thanks for that information.
That will make the tolerances for pulley sizes easier.
Am I correct in thinking that if I want to run it at higher RPMs I will need larger hoses than the 1/2" ID suction and 3/8" pressure lines?

Thanks

Aaron Z

 

[wdchyd]

Yes, you are correct

 

[aczlan]

Looking at the control valve, should it be good for just the 6GPM listed in the manual, or could it go to 7 or 8GPM?
It has a 3/8 line feeding it and a 1/2 line going out to the filter:








Aaron Z

 

[the old grind]

Is it just me, or does that tank size shout 'not for continuous use'?

Depending on number of cyls to supply I'd hope to have room for a bigger reservoir.