Basement Dehumidifier Advice

[N80]

Need advice on a basement dehumidifier. It is a mostly unfinished basement, 85 year old house, probably 900-1000 sq ft, concrete floors. It leaks. Water oozes in from the foundation walls but only with heavy rains. No sump at this time because there is not a single low spot to accommodate one. Only the front and sides are below grade so no seepage on the back side. Solving the problem is going to require digging all around front and sides of house and coating foundation walls. Do not have the money for that right now. After heavy rains I probably remove 20 gallons of water off the floor with the shop vac. Usually less.

So, I will make some stop gap changes to help control seepage but it is still too damp down there. My tools get a skim of rust on them, etc. However, no mold or dampness on floor joists. Anyway, I think a heavy duty dehumidifier might be in order. It will need to have a condensate pump or accommodations to fit one. I know these things can be pricey and I hear the ones from the big box stores don't last very long. So I'm looking for recommendations and any experience you guys may have with these. Thanks.

 

[k0ua]

I can't help much with the de-humidifier but I can tell you that hydraulic cement works for cracks in the basement cement walls, and that UGL works for coating the walls to prevent seepage. It really stinks to apply, but it does work.

UGL 1 gal. White Drylok Extreme Waterproofer-209100 - The Home Depot

Mortar, Cement & Concrete Mix - Concrete, Cement & Masonry -  The Home Depot

 

[mecan]

It does stink and is thick, but works

 

[KennyG]

I don't think a dehumidifier is going to solve the problem as long as you have water in leakage. Once the walls are sealed and the problem is only condensation, a combination of ventilation and dehumidification will work.

 

[4570Man]

I don't think a dehumidifier will work. You need to get the leakage stopped or install a sump pump. After that problem is fixed a dehumidifier may be needed.

 

[N80]

I agree that the dehumidifier will not work alone. But, I am going to make some stop gap changes. First, hydraulic cement over main leaks. Doubtful that it is going to work. But, there are two main leaks that account for 90% of the water. At the base of each one I am going to make a catch basin out of hydraulic cement and then put a shallow sump pump in each of those. So I should be getting most of the leaked in water pumped out. Ventilation is already adequate. (And in truth, the HVAC ductwork, both return and exit, is so old and leaky that the HVAC probably does a fair amount of air drying already.

I've looked at the UGL stuff but I assume it needs to go on the outside? This water is being pushed through very thick concrete walls 3 feet below grade so I think any coating I put on the inside is either going to get pushed off or the pressure is just going to push it somewhere else.

 

[k0ua]

I agree that the dehumidifier will not work alone. But, I am going to make some stop gap changes. First, hydraulic cement over main leaks. Doubtful that it is going to work. But, there are two main leaks that account for 90% of the water. At the base of each one I am going to make a catch basin out of hydraulic cement and then put a shallow sump pump in each of those. So I should be getting most of the leaked in water pumped out. Ventilation is already adequate. (And in truth, the HVAC ductwork, both return and exit, is so old and leaky that the HVAC probably does a fair amount of air drying already.

I've looked at the UGL stuff but I assume it needs to go on the outside? This water is being pushed through very thick concrete walls 3 feet below grade so I think any coating I put on the inside is either going to get pushed off or the pressure is just going to push it somewhere else.

Nope, the UGL goes on the inside.. It does not push off. It works. nasty stuff to apply, wear a respirator and ventilate well for a day or so. It will stop your seeps. of course cracks need hydraulic cement, then you can UGL over it. Yes the water gets thru 3 foot of concrete and is stopped dead by the coating of UGL. hard to believe, but it is true. It is not exactly a paint, it soaks in and swells up somehow.

 

[N80]

Nope, the UGL goes on the inside.. It does not push off. It works. nasty stuff to apply, wear a respirator and ventilate well for a day or so. It will stop your seeps. of course cracks need hydraulic cement, then you can UGL over it. Yes the water gets thru 3 foot of concrete and is stopped dead by the coating of UGL. hard to believe, but it is true. It is not exactly a paint, it soaks in and swells up somehow.

Wow. I will definitely be doing some more research. Most of my leaks are in a fairly small area across the front so this might be worth it.

 

[k0ua]

Wow. I will definitely be doing some more research. Most of my leaks are in a fairly small area across the front so this might be worth it.

I sealed several concrete walls in a bermed house with it that were always damp before. . The stuff really stinks by my thinking. it is thick almost like a paste. When it is fully dry, you can paint over it.

We had a leak in the basement here after road construction and all the blasting and ground shaking caused the crack. i sealed it with hydraulic cement, and UGL's over that for an area to each side.. never have seen another drop. Check it out.

 

[jmc]

Anything outside you can do to keep water away from the walls- clogged/leaking gutters, too short of downspout extensions, steeper grade away from the house, varmint tunnels....?