base for gravel

[Zockel]

I would like to convert 250 ft of dirt driveway into gravel. This area is rarely driven on, but turns to impassable mud after heavy rains. It is presently in compact clay and I am wondering whether I need a base (crusher run?) below the driveway gravel.
Thanks in advance.
Pete

 

[JRobyn]

Our whole 1/2 mile road was mud when we bought the place. A good thick skim, maybe 2-3" of "river rock" (blend of everything from sand up to about 3" pieces) was layed down and run in over several months until it all started to compact nicely. You could probably speed this up a lot with a roller or vibratory compactor. Then a thin skim (1" or less) of crusher run as top dressing did it. Granted, our mud was typically only 6-12" deep with solid rock underneath. The main trick was getting at least a thin surface that was well compacted and making sure that no water would be left standing on it. We did have a few potholes where tree roots were left and slowly decaying. These need a bit of filling once a year or so.

-Jay

 

[Zockel]

Thanks Jay, I live in Northern Missouri - at least six feet of clay with no rocks - I haven't dug any deeper yet. However, the area in question is a gentle slope, so drainage won't be a problem. But it sounds as if I need a base of river rock rather than just the 1" gravel that goes on top of the existing driveway once in a while.

 

[/pine]

Around here...a base of #4's and a topping of crusher run is the standard...

for a top coating you need "fines" so it packs down...if you put down crusher run first and loose gravel (no fines) on top...it would not last 6 months (around here)...loose gravel will migrate and you would end up with track ruts down the the crusher run...

 

[Dr_Zinj]

Plain subsoil will work for fines, although you might get more grass growth in the driveway. Don't use topsoil because that's organic and rots leaving a mean black mud in the northeast.

 

[rswyan]

Woven geotextile covered with no. 1's and 2's and then topped with crusher run.

 

[vtsnowedin]

With clay underneath you want to be sure to get your select material thick enough so it can hold the load in the spring without getting pounded down into and mixing with the clay. I haven't checked prices lately but geotextiles used to cost about as much per square yard as digging out an extra foot of clay and replacing it with clean sand. Both the foot of sand or the geotextile will do the same job. What you top that with depends on what is available locally. Being an ex state road builder I like at least eight inches of 3 inch minus crushed ledge capped with six inches of 3/4" crushed gravel.

 

[s219]

We use #3 gravel for a base here, with crusher run on top. Also put down fabric below the #3 in really soft muddy spots.

I agree with the earlier post not to put loose gravel on top. Use crusher run as the top layer. It's easy to grade and groom when first spread. Over time, it will lock together and harden like concrete.

 

[Jstpssng]

Woven geotextile covered with no. 1's and 2's and then topped with crusher run.

Like this Geotextile Applications - Haul Road Fabric. We sometimes use it when having roads built through wet areas. I wish that I had used it when putting in my driveway, which is slowly sinking into the mud.

 

[bcjmmac]

My lane (500' to house, another 1500 to back pond) has a base of ~2' sandstone topped with crushed gravel. Sandstone is common here (~$50/load). Was dumped & leveled by dozer to break up the large chunks then covered with the gravel. No issues so far (4 years).