Barn loft: advice welcome!

[tower59]

Hi, gang. First a thanks from someone who has lurked for some time. Due to the forum's collective wisdom, I've entered the world of tractor ownership armed with a lot more knowledge than I would have otherwise---thanks!

I now have a pole barn up, 36' x 48', and I plan on building a loft for camping in and storing odds and ends, nothing too heavy. Loft will be about 9' off the ground and should have about 7'+ or so height to the roof. I've built a pallet based platform for my pallet forks on my Mahindra 5525 to lift me and equipment up to that height to work. There are square posts (poles) every 12' in the middle of the barn that form the boundaries of the loft area, and the loft will be 12' wide. I'm currently planning on using 2 x 10s nailed to the inside and outside of each support pole with 2 x 12s on top spaced every 2' to support the floor. Probably use 3/4" ply for the floor.

Here are my questions: what recommendations would you make to the choice of materials? What about the flooring? I've seen all sorts of things besides ply to use, like subfloor material? What about 1/2" ply? I'll need 16 sheets of 8 x 4 whatever, so price adds up in a hurry. Anyway, I welcome all suggestions and tips. Thanks!

 

[theonlybull]

if your spacing your floor joists 24" on center, i would really look at boarding the floor in with 7/8" boards, then 1/2" ply on top. or even chip board

 

[TedLaRue]

It would help if we knew more about how you plan to use this space. Storage is one thing (dead load), "camping in" is another (live load). And when you mention subfloor, it sounds like you're planning for a finished floor??

I don't know what kind of wood your 2x lumber is, nor what grade you're using, but for a 12' span, your plan of 2x12's @ 24" spacing with 3/4" sheeting is adequate for all but the worst lumber (I'm looking at a span table for 10 lbs/sq ft dead load and 40 lbs/sq ft live load.)

You can buy 3/4" tongue and groove plywood flooring (Sturdi-Floor is one brand) for a smoother floor.

Personally, if you're using the space for "camping" a lot, I'd go with 2x10's @ 16" spacing and 3/4" plywood, but that will probably cost a little more.

If you're using the space primarily for flooring and not much "camping", you could go with 2x8's at 16" with 5/8" plywood. That would be fine for dead load (storage) but marginal for live load. It's not going to cave in when you walk on it, but there will be more bounce in the flooring.

With the 24" spacing, I'd advise against 1/2" plywood.

Also, instead of nails, consider boring a couple of holes through the supporting 2x10's and poles and running all-thread (long threaded rods which you can cut to length, available at HomeDepot or Lowe's or most hardware stores) through them and tightening with nuts and washers.

Finally, I just have to say this: use the pallet forks for equipment and materials, but consider using a ladder to get yourself up to the height you need to work on your loft.

 

[davitk]

I would use Douglas Fir or Southern Yellow Pine for the joists, but being 2 x 12's that's probably all that you'll find anyway. As far as the flooring goes, 1/2 plywood isn't going to work being 2' on center; I would recommend tongue and groove 3/4" subfloor-type plywood, either OSB or real plywood would be fine (you want the T & G to support the edges of the sheet between the joists). Sounds like a worthwhile project, keep us posted!

 

[mikim]

davitk is right on I think ...except dav - we don't hardly ever see any doug fir or white wood here ....it's all syp ....
tower59 -- sorry to hear of your affliction ...(tractoritis)....welcome to the club.

 

[tommu56]

for those spans i would look at a microlam and trusjoists they will give you the most bang for your buck.

go to a good lumber yard and they can figure out what you would need including the "engineering"

you poobibbly should sister another colum ot the post (it was only designed to carry building not your added load and set the micro lam on the nwe post and trus joist hangers on beam and the trus joists on hangers .

I have an addition 10ft wide (microlam) by 20 ft long (trusjoist)
and its about the solidst floor I'v put down smoothe flat and 3/4 ply wood floor.

micro lam link Versatile Beam for Residential Construction - iLevel Trus Joist Microllam LVL Beam

trus joist link Quality Floor I-Joists, The Original TJI Joist from iLevel - Trus Joist

tommu

 

[Zinno87]

It doesn't seem that anyone is concerned with the strength of the double 2x10 beam that wiill be supporting the 2x12 joists. I'm pretty sure that, considering the 12' span, those won't be sufficient. I would use larger members and couple them with joist hangers so that bottom of the beams is level with the bottom of the floor. That way you wouldn't lose so much head room.