Ballast Weight Question

[Underdog57]

I have the LS 4041H with the LL 4101 Loader. The lift capacity at full height @ pivot pins is 2638#. My rear tires (R4 17.5 L x 24) are loaded with Rim Guard, according to the chart that adds 588# per tire x 2 = 1176#. The question is I am going to build a concrete counter weight (I am in the concrete business = cheap concrete) should I make a 1500# block or should I make one 1000# or somewhere in between. I will be doing mostly FEL work with bucket or forks so I will be leaving the weight on the tractor most of the summer. If I don't have a lot of weight on the loader will it be a problem to have 1000 - 1500# hanging on the 3 pt all the time ? My 3 pt lift capacity is 2665#

 

[HillCountry]

Did you get an owner's manual that specifies how much ballast for the R4041 loader?

I'm curious about the LS's. I was looking at an R3039. The LS dealer told me that it was fine using the loader at full rated capacity without ANY ballast or loaded tires. It caught my attention and I questioned it, but he stuck by that answer... basing it on the lower center of gravity and loader structure.

 

[Underdog57]

All it says in the manual is "add rear ballast or rear weight to the tractor to compensate for the load" . I guess between the loaded tires & the counter weight I should be at FEL max lift cap. I was thinking about a 2' x 2' x 2' concrete block (approx 1200#) that would put me at 2376#. Just wondered what everybody thought.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

How does the machine handle the loader without the ballast on the 3pth?I would actually go to the higher end of your weight capacity of the hitch especially if your machine is 2wd. Remember the weight on the 3pt is trying to rotate around the rear axle and therefore takes weight off of the front axle. I made a 1700lb counterweight for my JD thinking that it would be plenty since it was approx 1/2 of the 3pth rating and I am still able to pick the rear tires off the ground if I get into some wet clay with the bucket on. I also have rimguard in the rear tires. Its not like your going to have to much weight on the hitch especially if the counterweight is compact and doesn't hang to far out back.

 

[Underdog57]

I just got this tractor late last fall so I really haven't worked it to hard yet, just pushing snow it handled good with a 630# blade on the back. Thanks for the input, I might make it bigger now.

 

[TSO]

I never used my 4047 with loaded tires, but when I had my HD 8' blade hanging off the back, I could max out the loader without lifting the rear tires. Unless I dropped the full load too fast, then it bounced the tires a bit.

Anyhow, with your tires already loaded, you might not need the full weight of that ballast box. But, I don't see any reason why more weight would hurt anything, so going with the heavier box would probably work out.

 

[California]

Just a thought if you will cast a counterweight - You might want to build the form around a trailer hitch receiver that sticks out the back of the weight and is welded to attach inside the weight to the 3-point pins at the front of the weight. Also consider some vertical plastic pipes embedded, to carry shovels, chain, etc in the counterweight. Or maybe even imbed some bolts to attach a toolbox later.

Or - make the weight flat on top with a couple of pins sticking up. So later you can detach the weight, and use your loader to set a second weight on top of it before reattaching it. There might be some way to hang a second weight off the back of it, too, where it does the most good.

There's lots of creative possibilities here beyond just plain concrete.

 

[stuckmotor]

California,
It's muddy here and I get stuck far too often with a bale of hay on the forks. I'm considering ALL of your suggestions for a much needed rear weight.

 

[Gary Fowler]

The more counter weight that you can put on the 3 PH arms, the less load you have on the front axles. 2000# hung between the lift arms (concrete block) does less than a 1200# piece of equipment mounted on the 3 PH since the lever force with it being far back amplifies the weight. If I were you and planned to lift some heavy loads (as much as the FEL will lift), I would make the counterweight at least 2/3 of the lift capacity and perhaps as much as 3/4. This will keep most of the stress off the smaller front axle and tires.
The dealer that said to not put any ballast or counter weight on is F.O.S. and likely looking for some future repair work to your tractor. Ballast also makes the tractor more stable on hills as even slight inclines can cause tipping with a full FEL load.

 

[k0ua]

The more counter weight that you can put on the 3 PH arms, the less load you have on the front axles. 2000# hung between the lift arms (concrete block) does less than a 1200# piece of equipment mounted on the 3 PH since the lever force with it being far back amplifies the weight. If I were you and planned to lift some heavy loads (as much as the FEL will lift), I would make the counterweight at least 2/3 of the lift capacity and perhaps as much as 3/4. This will keep most of the stress off the smaller front axle and tires.
The dealer that said to not put any ballast or counter weight on is F.O.S. and likely looking for some future repair work to your tractor. Ballast also makes the tractor more stable on hills as even slight inclines can cause tipping with a full FEL load.

+1 on this. That dealer must have never actually operated a tractor with a FEL full of heavy material. At least not on uneven ground. My manual for my DK35se calls for 1010 lbs on the 3pt. the slightly larger DK40se calls for 1100 on the 3pt. I believe you need at least that 1100 on the 3pt for that tractor. As noted you could get by with less weight if it sticks out, as in a heavy blade or a bush hog that sticks out 6 foot.