ballast Box enough?

   / ballast Box enough? #1  

VTtractorguy

Silver Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2006
Messages
139
Location
Vermont
Tractor
Still looking...
I've decided I am NOT going to get my tires filled or add wheel weights as I want to keep the 1025r as light as possible when I go over my septic mound. Deere says in the H120 manual that you need one of the following three options:

1. Fluid filled tires and ballast box
2. Fluid filled tires and wheel weights
3. Wheel weights and ballast box

I'm sure some of this is they want to cover themselves liability wise, which I understand. I've talked to several dealers over the past month and none have recommended to have two of the three options listed above. Most recommend just fluid OR ballast box, not both. I don't agree with just fluid alone.

So if I don't weight the tires, should the ballast box w/ extension be enough to counter a fully loaded FEL? I will also have the iMatch on so that adds 50 lbs. or so

Also, if I am just transporting the machine with an empty FEL and no weight on the back (un-weighted tires and no ballast box) can the machine be tipsy? Can the FEL with no counter-weight be too much for the front axle?

Maybe I'm over thinking this.
 
   / ballast Box enough? #2  
Maybe I'm over thinking this.

I don't think you are. I believe the 1025r has an impressive FEL lift capacity and if you use all of that capability, then you'll want/need a significant counter weight aft of the rear axle to unload the vertical load on the front axle some. What is the lift capacity of your FEL and how about the 3pt hitch? If the FEL is more than the 3pt, then that might explain why Deere is recommending additional weight on the rear wheels. The wheel weight won't help reduce your front axle vertical weight loading, but it will help to keep your rear axle on the ground and making traction, which will reduce the traction load on your front axle. It's good that you're thinking about this!
 
   / ballast Box enough?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I don't think you are. I believe the 1025r has an impressive FEL lift capacity and if you use all of that capability, then you'll want/need a significant counter weight aft of the rear axle to unload the vertical load on the front axle some. What is the lift capacity of your FEL and how about the 3pt hitch? If the FEL is more than the 3pt, then that might explain why Deere is recommending additional weight on the rear wheels. The wheel weight won't help reduce your front axle vertical weight loading, but it will help to keep your rear axle on the ground and making traction, which will reduce the traction load on your front axle. It's good that you're thinking about this!

Thanks for your response. Here is one of the first things I want to do with this tractor:

Wall.jpg

These stones were displaced from a 200 year old wall when we cleared the land. I want to pick them up and rebuild the wall. We have hilly land and I can imagine that I may be on the edge of tipping. I certainly don't want to get near that point.
 
   / ballast Box enough? #4  
I run my rig with just a ballast box when moving rounds of hay or when I'm using the 4in1 bucket. I don't have filled tyres or tyre weights and I've never encountered a balance problem.

My ballast box is filled with 'house bricks' so that I can +/- as required. As long as you're not tempted to add "just one more stone" you should be right.

I'll let someone who has a 1025r advise you on the transport question.
 
   / ballast Box enough? #5  
The I-Match and the ballast box work fine on my hilly property without using wheel weights or loaded tires. Just remember to keep the load a low as possible and be straight up and down on the hill when loading or unloading your stones. The higher you have your loader the more unstable you become. Early on when we had our JD 2305 with the 200CX loader, I removed the ballast box to get a better purchase on some fence posts that we were pulling out of a hilly pasture. The result was putting the tractor on its side resulting in a flatbed trip to the dealer to clear the oil out of the cylinders. As a side note, when the tractor went over, the engine continued to run even though the ignition switch was turned off. We were lucky, the engine received no damage and my adult son ALWAYS wears the seat belt. The FEL frame also saved the tractor from much damage. I only had to replace the left rear ROP light which got smashed in the process. I am now thinking of loading the tires even after adding five suitcase weights on the front to aid steering when using the brush hog. I did not get much council or advice from the local dealer before or after the sale. That dealer is no longer my primary dealer.
 
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   / ballast Box enough? #6  
Agree with what most people are saying. A full ballast box will counter weight a full 200cx bucket on your 1025 and this is the way to go as it will off set the weight on your front axle. I would only recommend wheel weights or tires fill if you are working on a hill side for stability. Some people will fill them with windshield washer. Much cheaper.

DSCF6432.jpg DSCF6434.jpg

Henri
 
   / ballast Box enough? #7  
You won't need the extension for the ballast box, it is for the larger CUTs. I put water and antifreeze in my X495 years ago and decided the hassle wasn't worth the benefit. With the 26x12-12 tires, they would hold only 6 gallon or 50 pounds for each tire.
 

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