Ball valve vs. Needle Valve

   / Ball valve vs. Needle Valve #1  

LittleBlueTractor

Gold Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
426
Location
Houston
Tractor
LS S3010
Been reading in this forum about hydraulic flow control and considering adding some needle valves in various circuits. I'm not sure why they are so pricey, but I came across this in my research:

Hydraulic Ball Valve 2 way 3/8" NPT 7250 PSI FREE SHIPPING

Seems to me like it would have the same basic effect as a needle valve, but probably with less fine of control. Having that big handle sticking out might not be a good thing either, but would it be OK to use one in place of needle valve to serve the same function? I apologize ahead of time if the answer is obvious, but didn't find anything in a TBN search about it.
 
   / Ball valve vs. Needle Valve #2  
Been reading in this forum about hydraulic flow control and considering adding some needle valves in various circuits. I'm not sure why they are so pricey, but I came across this in my research:

Hydraulic Ball Valve 2 way 3/8" NPT 7250 PSI FREE SHIPPING

Seems to me like it would have the same basic effect as a needle valve, but probably with less fine of control. Having that big handle sticking out might not be a good thing either, but would it be OK to use one in place of needle valve to serve the same function? I apologize ahead of time if the answer is obvious, but didn't find anything in a TBN search about it.
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Ball valves aren't a good choice for throttling. They need to be fully open or fully closed.
 
   / Ball valve vs. Needle Valve
  • Thread Starter
#4  
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Ball valves aren't a good choice for throttling. They need to be fully open or fully closed.

Yeah, I figured it might be something like this -- not designed for throttling. Is there any uses for it on a tractor?
 
   / Ball valve vs. Needle Valve
  • Thread Starter
#5  
   / Ball valve vs. Needle Valve #6  
Saw that one but thought I should go with a 3/8 version (which they don't have.) I suppose it might not make much of a difference as we're talking about reducing the flow on that circuit anyway huh?

Is this for top and tilt? If it is you will find that you want the needle valve about as closed as you can get it and still have some flow. I would not worry about 1/4" being to small.
 
   / Ball valve vs. Needle Valve #7  
Yeah, I figured it might be something like this -- not designed for throttling. Is there any uses for it on a tractor?
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If I were to put one on a tractor the handle would be removed to avoid accidentally opening or closing.

I learned my lesson while working between to large compressor cylinders. Open ended ball valve (no plug) and the handle caught in the side opening of my bib overalls. End result was scalded ribs from hot jacket water. Just lucky it wasn't 210 degree engine water but 150F compressor water.
 
   / Ball valve vs. Needle Valve #8  
If you want to isolate a line or a circuit,ball valves would be the choice. For control,it really should be a needle valve.:)

Greg
 
   / Ball valve vs. Needle Valve
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Is this for top and tilt? If it is you will find that you want the needle valve about as closed as you can get it and still have some flow. I would not worry about 1/4" being to small.

Only have the hydraulic top link at the moment. Will do the side link later. My next project is a electric diverter for a grapple and that's where I was thinking I'll need one. But to be honest I was considering installing them before the diverter to slow down the all the FEL controls. All the hydraulics seem to be a bit too fast for me except maybe dropping the 3 point, which I can control with a knob under the seat. Probably just an experience thing with learning how to feather the controls, but it would be nice if I could slow things down a bit.
 
   / Ball valve vs. Needle Valve #10  
Only have the hydraulic top link at the moment. Will do the side link later. My next project is a electric diverter for a grapple and that's where I was thinking I'll need one. But to be honest I was considering installing them before the diverter to slow down the all the FEL controls. All the hydraulics seem to be a bit too fast for me except maybe dropping the 3 point, which I can control with a knob under the seat. Probably just an experience thing with learning how to feather the controls, but it would be nice if I could slow things down a bit.

Do NOT put any of these valves on the IN, OUT or PB ports on the valve. They only belong between the valve and the cylinder you want to slow down, not in the "main flow".

Use 1/4" hose to feed your grapple, it's cheaper and easier to route-3/8" is a waste of money.

Slow the RPM's on the engine a little to slow things down if you feel they are moving to fast for you.
 

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