Ball mount on pallet forks

[hogi]

I am considering drilling a hole in the pallet forks and installing a hitch ball. How far back from the tip should I drill? I don't want to drill too close because the tips are tapered and I don't want to weaken them too much, but can't go too far back or the tip of fork could catch on the trailer hitch when turning. Is there a rule of thumb of how much strength is lost when drilling holes in steel?

 

[sawdust_maker]

I am considering drilling a hole in the pallet forks and installing a hitch ball. How far back from the tip should I drill? I don't want to drill too close because the tips are tapered and I don't want to weaken them too much, but can't go too far back or the tip of fork could catch on the trailer hitch when turning. Is there a rule of thumb of how much strength is lost when drilling holes in steel?

How about making a sleeve for one of the tines of the fork? Clamp it in place with a heavy set screw, and no drilling is needed, so no weakened fork at all.

John

 

[J_J]

Here is the one on my fork.

 

[washita]

the shop I used to work in we would put the holes in with a torch or plasma cutter the fork steel was incredibly tough on drill bits and yes the safety police were always upset but in 20+ years never seen one break out usually the drivers would wear out or bend the forks first thats just my .02 cents worth I did build a snowplow blade once for a fork lift always build shear pins or some form of shock absorbing device into a plow it suvived one winter and was bent in ways unimagineable the following winter one of the other welders made a new snow blade for the forklift it was h.d.alright, bent forks-headache rack-driver with bruised ribs-broken manhole drain just be careful when modifying equipment

 

[MossRoad]

I am considering drilling a hole in the pallet forks and installing a hitch ball. How far back from the tip should I drill? I don't want to drill too close because the tips are tapered and I don't want to weaken them too much, but can't go too far back or the tip of fork could catch on the trailer hitch when turning. Is there a rule of thumb of how much strength is lost when drilling holes in steel?

I have bent the forks on our PT425 several times. They bend way back towards the quick attach, not out front by the tips. My guess is you will be fine 6-8 inches back from the tip. However, I think it would be a pain to have to unbolt that ball hitch or vice versa every time you wanted to use or not use it. I like the suggestion regarding a clamp on sleeve for one of the forks.

Personally, I just picked up a 2" receiver tube and welded it to a quick attach plate. You can make a ton of useful implements that will work in the receiver, so it is money well spent.

 

[J_J]

Here is another idea.

 

[rockinmywaypa]

just blow a hole near the tip that you can drop a drawpin into. then you can move wagons and then slide on the sleeve with the ball and drop your pin through them all to move trailers with a ball hitch. where I worked 20 yrs ago we had hooks made up that fit into the hole so we could grab a chain and lift with it. basically a grab hook welded to two links of chain then to a 3/4 in bolt. This made a fork excellent for lifting electric motors into place.

 

[LD1]

I'd say anything 1" back or more would be fine. The closer you get to the tip, the less force their is on the fork.

I'd feel better with a 1" hole at the tip than I would at the heel of the fork.

 

[J_J]

Paynes Forks Ball Clamp with Lift Ring — 2in. Stem | Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[Johndeere3720]

The hole on my forks is about 2-3" in. It works great but I should take the other fork off when moving trailers. The silver ball looks good on black forks.