Baler flywheel shear bolts

/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #1  

barrybro

Bronze Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
87
Location
South West Michigan
Tractor
1964 Ford 4000
I just baled my 6 acre field yesterday. I am using a New Holland Hayliner 269 with 1964 Ford 4000. I went through a number of flywheel shear bolts while baling. The only constant was they were shearing becase of the needle guard being up. Otherwise there were no other similiatiries. It would do it in thick hay and in thin hay. My tractor was working pretty hard with some sizeable swings in the RPM's with the torque of the baler. I am relatively new to farming. Is this normal?
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #2  
The needle guard should not be coming up in normal operations as you bale. I would suspect your knotter is not timed correctly. The only time my needle guard has come up is when the knotter was triggered after the baler was stopped and then the baler was rotated some...?backwards? before restarting. Bang! Broke a shear bolt. Ours is an IH37 but it probably works the same.
larry
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I am probably not explaining the needle gaurd right. It comes up everytime the needles go up and stops the plunger from going back and breaking the needles.

If it was out of time wouldn't it do it all the time. I could go an hour and everything would be great. sometimes I would go ten minutes and shear one off.
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #4  
The "needle guards" aka plunger stops are doing their job. The primary causes of your problem are wet hay plugs, too fast a feed rate, dull plunger knives,and pto rpm too low.

I blew thru 2 shear bolts myself yesterday. I had double raked all windrows and there were a few wet globs that stalled the plunger. When I stop the tractor to reduce the feed rate, sometimes I push in the clutch too far and this removes power to the baler as well as the tractor. Oops. In very dry hay, I sometimes run a higher gear and this can choke the plunger throat area. I'm lousy at raking and turn around areas of my windrows get too big. Dull plunger knives and poor knive spacing loads up the plunger cycle excesively. And finally, balers are designed to run at rated rpm 540/1000 rpm. I see so many users who run at 1/2 speed because the tractor moves too fast, they think they are saving fuel, or the ride is too rough. Pick a gear set that gives the pto rpm and ground speed that your machine was designed for. If you are moving faster than a brisk walk with your equipment, its probably too much.
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I had a few wet globs, and I think my plunger knives are probably the equivalent of a butter knive. I will sharpen those up for the next time and see if I have better luck.

I also want to share my appreciation to you frequent responders. I have learned a great deal from your replys to other posts. It is a great service you do.

Barry
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #6  
i had a problem similar to yours on an old jd. baler i had. there is a rod that goes from the plunger stop to where the needles attach to the baler. on the end of the rod is a lever that rides on the bar where the needles attach to the baler. the lever got a groove worn in it from riding on that bar for so long. this let the plunger stop hang up in the bale chamber once in a while. for a quick fix in the field i wrapped some tape around the bar where the needles attach right under where the lever rides. never sheared another bolt. hope that makes sence.
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I will take a look at mine and see if I have a similiar situation. Thanks!
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #8  
I am probably not explaining the needle gaurd right. It comes up everytime the needles go up and stops the plunger from going back and breaking the needles.

If it was out of time wouldn't it do it all the time. I could go an hour and everything would be great. sometimes I would go ten minutes and shear one off.
Hmm. Makes sense that they come up each time for safety. If timed correctly tho they always get out of the way before the plunger come back into the chamber. If your plunger is hitting them it has to be at least a borderline timing problem. If it is NOT hitting those stops the plunger is encountering a high resistance impulse from somewhere else or the bolts are not appropriate. Is your bolt a grade 5? Ive had my ram stopped several times on the push stroke but my 5/16 gr5 never sheared from that. Compression of grass just doesnt stop it quick enuf.
larry
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #9  
Some of the probable causes are:
Needle latch linkage out of adjustment.
Knotter 'Home' position incorrect, coupled with weak knotter shaft brake adjustment or worn brake linings.
Knotter to plunger timing off just a little.

All these scenarios can be checked with the information provided in the operator's manual.

If the needle latch is causing the shearbolts to break, wet hay, feed rate and other load related factors are NOT the cause.
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #10  
My NH 273 broke a few the last 2 days also. I know there were a few wet spots in the field and the knives have never been seen by me or sharpened. :eek:

So how do you get to these knives to sharpen them? I havent completely emptied the baler since I got it and just cant see how to access the knives.:confused:

Do you get to them from the bottom after taking all the hay out? The manual shows what they look like and how to adjust them but does not show how to get at them.
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #11  
No, you can get both from the twine box side of the knotter. You'll need a 3/4" wrench. Make sure you take note of your shims and the location when you remove them. Also make sure you follow the shimming procedure in the operators manual. NH knives are strait knives and are easy to sharpen. To barry you are out of time in one place or another. Check the knotter drive chain for kinks and tightness. If it is too loose it will cause erratic shear bolt breakage. If the pludger stop is engagng the crank arm then it is doing its job to save your needles and cradle.
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Wow - Great information, I defenitley need to sharpen my knives and also go through all of these other items just to be sure.

Thanks!

Barry
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #13  
I sharpened the knives on my hesston baler a couple months ago. What a world of difference it made!

The bales are cleaner looking, I can defintly feel the difference in how bad it rocks me back adn forth too. Power requirements have gone down considerably too. If you have never sharpened yours then it is a really good idea to do so now.

It does sound like your timing is out though. Or that is at least part of the problem. I'd recommend getting the factory service manual if you don't already have it. It's got great illustrations and descriptions of exactly how to do it.
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #14  
I got the knives out, sharpened and installed.:D Took a few hours for the whole job. How often is this necessary? Not the easiest of jobs, kind of a pain actually. All the shims fell out when I pulled the bolts out :mad: so after a lot of farting around I got it back together. On the bottom where the knives first meet I have a good thumb nail of clearance which gets a little tighter as the knifes move past each other, ending with a snug thumb nail on top. By my measurements it should be a little over 1/32" at bottom and just under 1/32" at the top. Manual states 1/32 max. Seemed to work fine rebaling a few bales at idle. No loud scary noises:eek:



Cut a few acres tonight so I will get to try it out in a few days.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #15  
I have a 269 hayliner that I replaced. the clutch on the flywheel last cutting when it broke. Now when I start the pto it runs fine until I engage the knotters. then instantly shears pin. Looking at the needles they are not fully resetting and when I reset them manually it's fine again until the knotters are tripped. So I removed all hay and turned it over by hand and everything works fine. did this several times with no problems until I engage the PTO on the tractor and then the needles don't fully retract back and boom sheared pin. What is this and how to fix. Please. it did always shear a few pins before but not because of the needles not locking out. Help.
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #16  
I have a 269 hayliner that I replaced. the clutch on the flywheel last cutting when it broke. Now when I start the pto it runs fine until I engage the knotters. then instantly shears pin. Looking at the needles they are not fully resetting and when I reset them manually it's fine again until the knotters are tripped. So I removed all hay and turned it over by hand and everything works fine. did this several times with no problems until I engage the PTO on the tractor and then the needles don't fully retract back and boom sheared pin. What is this and how to fix.

The baler is protecting the needles. It should.drive the needles full cycle during the tie cycle and "park" them out of the way. There should be an adjustable friction clutch to stop their movement as soon as drive stops. ... Are you sure its not driving them far enuf - or is it letting them go/coast too far - /partly into next cycle?
larry
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #17  
The baler is protecting the needles. It should.drive the needles full cycle during the tie cycle and "park" them out of the way. There should be an adjustable friction clutch to stop their movement as soon as drive stops. ... Are you sure its not driving them far enuf - or is it letting them go/coast too far - /partly into next cycle?
larry
That matches what I have seen with our 273.

Aaron Z
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #18  
It looked as if they were not fully resetting but I took a chance and gave a couple of turns of tension to the clutch pads. after that I tried hand turning the knot cycle and it seemed to be the same as before it completed the cycle. So I then tried it under pto speed and it is now completing the cycle. Thanks. it was still shearing pins but not due the safety arm hitting the bale arm. So I cleaned out the chute again and ran it dry for a couple minutes. Hasn't sheared a pin since about 450 bales. Any Ideas what else might be causing pin shear? Sometimes it seems like it has to warm up??? It'll shear pins in the beginning every 10 bales or so then after about 30 minutes it runs like it should? I don't know I just have to be patient but if I could fix it things would move along faster. Any thoughts.
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #19  
i have a New Holland 326 square baler and today it has broken a lot of bolts the bales are not wet. Im thinking its something else maybe the needles are linked to safety latch needs to be adjusted.? How much can you adjust that latch? till you dont see it sticking out? This baler is at it last leg. I got an old 237 NH and the it had been parked for over 5 years i cleaned it up and rotated it. I hooked it to tractor and the needles went up but didnt go back? Baler kept running but needles stayed up? I thought the shear bolt on flywheel should have broken off ? Does the speed have to be up on tractor for needles to come back down after knotter grabs string?
 
/ Baler flywheel shear bolts #20  
i have a New Holland 326 square baler and today it has broken a lot of bolts the bales are not wet. Im thinking its something else maybe the needles are linked to safety latch needs to be adjusted.? How much can you adjust that latch? till you dont see it sticking out? This baler is at it last leg. I got an old 237 NH and the it had been parked for over 5 years i cleaned it up and rotated it. I hooked it to tractor and the needles went up but didnt go back? Baler kept running but needles stayed up? I thought the shear bolt on flywheel should have broken off ? Does the speed have to be up on tractor for needles to come back down after knotter grabs string?
Im not understanding. This sounds impossible. The needles go thru the bale chamber very quickly while the ram is backstroked. They must flip back down out of the way to allow the ram an unimpeded forward stroke. For preservation of the needles there is a mechanical safety that sticks up into the bale chamber while the needles are up. This stops the ram dead and shears the bolt. The flywheel continues but the baler is NOT running.

You can observe and trace the motions while turning the baler by hand. When you trigger the knot cycle will delay until ram is on its backstroke. The needles come up while the knot ties and rethread the knotter - then recede quickly as the ram comes back toward the chamber. At running speed, if the ram comes back into the chamber before they are clear they are destroyed. Trace all the drives at hand speed and youll find a loose or sticking or broken part. Then everything will be ok.
larry
 

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