Bad news big repair

[LouNY]

It's possible most temperature sensor are resistance based so an ohm reading at 32F is easy to achieve,
sensor in a insulated jug of ice and water, then if desired same sensor in a pan of lightly boiling water for 212F, or 0C and 100C.

 

[Hay Dude]

It's possible most temperature sensor are resistance based so an ohm reading at 32F is easy to achieve,
sensor in a insulated jug of ice and water, then if desired same sensor in a pan of lightly boiling water for 212F, or 0C and 100C.

I thought of switching sensors between tractors, but one busted sensor or problem and were down a tractor. Not worth the risk.

 

[DieselBound]

I was thinking defective batch of sensors (Water or air)?
Its getting close to spring and the really cold pretty much in the rear view mirror

It would be the air temp sensor. The replacement you got could have been defective (test).

Another possibility is that the sensor is somehow getting warmed up, though the only way I could figure that to happen is if it's visible to the sun, or rodents have built a nest around it?

If it's readily accessible a cheesey way to get it to work might be to blast it using a can of cold air.

 

[LouNY]

My Branson uses a dedicated water temp sensor as the controlling input for the manifold heater control.
No ambient air measurement.

 

[DieselBound]

My Branson uses a dedicated water temp sensor as the controlling input for the manifold heater control.
No ambient air measurement.

Interesting, but not confusing... I need to see what my Kioti uses. My cars, TDIs, use air. Don't know what my Polaris (Yanmar diesel) or my 12v Cummins uses (I probably should know this, but don't).

 

[Hay Dude]

My Kubbys have 2 sensors. Air and water

 

[LouNY]

I wish it used ambient air, when using the block heater the manifold heat shuts off.
Not Nice when -20ºF as she won't fire and run without the heater,
have to open the hood and unplug the sensor to get the manifold heat to work.

 

[LouNY]

Just thinking about a two sensor system I would be tempted to blame the water sensor.
The reason being if it believes the water is warm it would not turn on heat unless the air temperature was quite cool
which is what you have seen.
Just my way of thinking about it.

 

[IndyJay]

I actually did it in early January. Its been working fine.

I meant you finally got good advice on how to fix it!

 

[Hay Dude]

I meant you finally got good advice on how to fix it!

Yeah the switch is so easy. I really wanted to fix it back to factory specs, but when you have work to do with these machines, they can only be down so long..

 

[Tony H]

I wish it used ambient air, when using the block heater the manifold heat shuts off.
Not Nice when -20ºF as she won't fire and run without the heater,
have to open the hood and unplug the sensor to get the manifold heat to work.

Hmm, about this issue. The sell plug in thermostats to be used as 'heat out in the house' warnings. House gets below 40f and it activates the switch. Plug anything into this t-stat switch to turn on as a warning. Can't you use one of these for you block heater?
It's nice when you can keep you tractor functioning as per factory but when too many sensors and computers are used for simple tasks, it's time to go old school and rely on yourself, not a sensor

 

[dodge man]

I think in earlier posts Hay Dude says no electricity available so no block heater normally used.

 

[arrow]

The ECU reads the air and water temp sensors and they are both part of the glow plug wiring circuit and it has been stated that if the relays are bypassed, the tractor derates itself.
So how do you bypass all that and “simply install a switch”?

Does the tractor possess a derate bypass itself like on a Cummins engine downstream of the other sensors?
Did they hook up a code reader by any chance?