Backhoe Bucket Grader Scraper Blade Build

[SkunkWerX]

This is the Bucket Scraper Blade, built for fellow TBN member Ktmpat for his BX24.

It isn't made for any rough use, more for scraping up loose dirt or pulling loose fill back into a trench from the opposite side when it's not convenient to cross the trench. Also for raking up loose rocks and scruff after backfilling.

Requirements were that it needed to be easy/quick to attach and remove. Takes a 3/4" wrench / Socket.

Method: Remove middle tooth, using existing bolts for middle tooth, attach the Scraper Blade.

Dimensions:
Moldboard: 34" x 4" x 1/4"
cutting edge: 3/16" x 2" (mild steel, not a carbon edge)
Backing/rigidity strap: 1/2" x 1/2" bar stock

Not much else to say about it, pretty simplistic.

 

[dnafziger]

that is a great idea.

 

[3RRL]

Yeah, pretty cool idea.
Has he hit anything with the edge to cause it to tweak sideways? I imagine the outer teeth gives it stability? The one tooth attachment is very clever and simple Skunk.

 

[RedDirt]

Quite nice. I had just been thinking of something very similar the other day. Now I wish my bucket teeth were bolt-ons, not welded.

 

[SkunkWerX]

Yeah, pretty cool idea.
Has he hit anything with the edge to cause it to tweak sideways? I imagine the outer teeth gives it stability? The one tooth attachment is very clever and simple Skunk.

Thanks Rob.

This one is purely experimental. Just out of the shop, hasn't done any extensive work, yet.

The 2 outer teeth do provide the stability and back support. Best description is that it is "wedged" , with the teeth touching the back spine (the 1/2" x 1/2" barstock).

I too, thought about the torque and stress at the outer edges, hit a big embedded rock , and pull hard enough, and yes, I think the edge will deflect, then bend. For the smaller BX24, it should really be about 24", not 34" , it was just that was the length of the plate I had, so, what the heck? Can always make it shorter once it's used and assessed.

The key is that it is intended for moving loose dirt, loose gravel, sand, but not for digging in virgin soil.

We will report back, once it's been played with ... I mean... umm....used for serious work.
.

 

[LBrown59]

Quite nice. I had just been thinking of something very similar the other day. Now I wish my bucket teeth were bolt-ons, not welded.

This one just clamps on no tooth bolts needed .
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1401948-post1.html

 

[LBrown59]

For the smaller BX24, it should really be about 24", not 34"

I Made this out of a piece of treated 5/4.
It's 40'' wide and 4.5 inches high.
The 40 inches is just right = not to wide and not to narrow.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1401948-post1.html

 

[ray66v]

Make one long one, and also I use a short 12" one a lot to dress swails, and work in tight spots. Just a piece of angle on the back of the teeth, and some bolts through the angle and the scraper between the teeth, will work fine. It does not have to be fancy.

 

[LBrown59]

will report back, once it's been played with ... I mean... umm....used for serious work.
.

Here's mine in use.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/122625-back-hoe-bucket-scraper-blade.html

 

[Willl]

No bolts at all.

And installation is a snap, uninstalling is even quicker.

 

[Willl]

Changing size is also a breeze.

I think I'll add root rake teeth to this one.

 

[SkunkWerX]

We did a test and the scraper did a respectable job. It smoothed the area very flat. The smoothing effect worked very well with the bottom of the blade tipped back, like iciing a cake.

We also took a "cut" into undisturbed ground, with the cutting edge angled forward, and it had no problem scraping up a layer. No sign of deformation when cutting undisturbed earth, no bending.

 

[RedDirt]

This one just clamps on no tooth bolts needed .
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1401948-post1.html

Very quick and easy has its advantage. In use does it stay on? It seems since the teeth are tapered the bolt force would loosen in use and the bar would just slide off. This would be especially true if there was more force on one side of the blade that the other. Or is it bolted/clamped through drilled holes in the cutting edge (or bucket bottom)?

 

[SkunkWerX]

Red dirt,

Mine is bolted through the bucket cutting edge, just like the teeth.
The 1/2" x 1/2" barstock that is welded to the back of the 4" wide blade actually is wedged against the teeth, in contact with them.

There are two flanges welded on either side of the piece that bolts to the bucket, which keeps it from tipping side to side. (To 3RRL's point which I missed first time around, sorry Rob.)

So it is butted up against the bucket's cutting edge, bolted, and is in contact with the teeth, which provide a solid surface for it to wedge against.

Put it this way, with the bucket about 1 foot off the ground, you can stand on one side of it and it won't tip.

Being able to angle the attack of the blade with the bucket curl control really helps, acting as an adjustable angle cutter/scraper.

 

[RedDirt]

Red dirt,

A) Mine is bolted through the bucket cutting edge, just like the teeth.

B) There are two flanges welded on either side of the piece that bolts to the bucket, which keeps it from tipping side to side.

Skunk,
A) So "yours" a bit different than the one you built Ktmpat? Bolting to the bucket cutting edge instead of using the center tooth mount? I'd suspect two 1/2" dia bolts, horizontally, on each side of the outer teeth would do the job. Is that what you did?

B) With two horiz bolt attachments it seems you would not need the "stop plates. And if the "blade" was 6" wide instead of 4" and ran up to the bucket sides twisting force would be further resisted.

What do you think?

 

[Bedlam]

No bolts at all.

And installation is a snap, uninstalling is even quicker.

I was just going to post this idea you had, I saw a full size excavator use a huge I beam like that once in a site. Good idea

 

[SkunkWerX]

Skunk,
A) So "yours" a bit different than the one you built Ktmpat? Bolting to the bucket cutting edge instead of using the center tooth mount? I'd suspect two 1/2" dia bolts, horizontally, on each side of the outer teeth would do the job. Is that what you did?

B) With two horiz bolt attachments it seems you would not need the "stop plates. And if the "blade" was 6" wide instead of 4" and ran up to the bucket sides twisting force would be further resisted.

What do you think?

RedDirt,
Sorry for the confusion, "Mine" , I was referring to KtmPats.
Was distinguishing between this one and the wooden one that was posted.

The teeth are bolted in the cutting edge of the bucket on the BX.
So it is bolted to into some thick metal, not the sheet steel of the bucket itself, but the beefier cutting edge.

I agree with you, if someone wanted to take all 3 teeth off (Six bolts) they could fabricate something stronger, spanning the entire cutting edge.
This one, for ktmpat, was designed for quick change-over and light-work.

 

[LBrown59]

Very quick and easy has its advantage. In use does it stay on? It seems since the teeth are tapered the bolt force would loosen in use and the bar would just slide off. This would be especially true if there was more force on one side of the blade that the other. Or is it bolted/clamped through drilled holes in the cutting edge (or bucket bottom)?

The short board has 3 holes in it that slip over the 3 top nuts of the 3 teeth.
his keeps the blade from sliding off .