Back Blade

[SkywagonRanch]

Recently bought a Kubota L3940 with 72" FEL. I have been moving snow with this but think I'd like a back blade to move it a bit easier. I think this is a cat I 3 point which might limit my choices, but I'd like an 8 foot blade with 2 way angle so I can drag the snow into a windrow as otherwise I will drift my driveway. Any tips as to whether this is realistic? Would an 8 foot blade be too big for this tractor? Would a 6 foot blade work ok? My driveway is about 1/2 mile long gravel.

Thanks.

 

[Birdhunter1]

An 8' blade will be too much for that tractor, it will not only be underpowered but the pull of the blade may also cause it to push the tractor around. A 6' blade will be a much better fit to your machine, the heavier weight wise on the blade the better. A heavier blade will not ride on top of packed snow as easy as a lightweight one.

 

[RoyJackson]

I think an 84" blade would work OK as long as you're not trying to plow more then 8" (maybe a little less if it's a wet, heavy snow) and you've got it rotated about 20 to 30 degrees.
I wouldn'd want to drive a half mile in reverse though, if you're planning to push the snow. I'd be driving foward and leave that blade about a 1/2" or so above the surface. The weight of the snow will push the tractor to the side, but with a little practice, you can work around that (using your steering brakes).

If you get that much snow, I'd consider a front blade...or even a plow for a pickup and just use the tractor for clean up work. A 1/2 mile drive is pretty long to be out in the cold, IMHO.

BTW, I use a 72" blade on a tractor that is considerably lighter then that Kubota...but I'm only clearing off a 120' drive (and my neighbor's 150' drive occasionally).

 

[Farmwithjunk]

From experience, you want a blade that is wider than the tractor even with the blade angled. My vote is for a 7'er. For many years, that's all I've used to move snow. Works just fine.

 

[bigdad]

I couldn't justify the $$ for a front blade setup so.....

I have a reasonably small tractor and use a 6 foot RB for snow. My dealer suggested it. Angled, it still covers the wheelbase. I would imagine that I am at the limit of my tractor's HP with it. Like Birdhunter1 stated, blade weight helps.

I don't do any drives that are as long as yours, but I do several and I DON'T like backing up. With Gauge wheels set so the moldboard is 1/4 inch off of the surface, I angle the blade all the way and let 'er fly. I get the momentum going and that 6 footer just rolls that snow out and away. On uneven surfaces I go a little deeper than the wheels normally would allow, but at only six feet wide and angled, gouging is negligible. Touch up with the FEL.

Snow removal equipment and technique is like winter clothes. Everyone has their own combination and types that works for them.

 

[Squeak n Itch]

With a Kubota L-3130 and 7' backblade (slightly bent but $$free$$) it is relatively easy to keep the 300' gravel drive clear of snow. Always lose some gravel but there are other threads that propose solutions to that particular problem. The windrow effect is just a byproduct of using a blade. There is, as mentioned by others, some side push to the tractor but that is not a huge problem. Just be certain to get the snow back away from the drive far enough that the drift doesn't bridge the two windrows. At that point I, through esperience, have had to use my Gravely snowblower. Not fun but got the job done (two hours later).
Plow on!!

 

[ToadHill]

Give some thought to a setup like this. The old truck blade (free) inserted into the FEL. The back blade is for weight as well as some cleanup work.

 

[SkywagonRanch]

Oy, that blade on the bucket looks complicated. I have the skid steer type bucket. Sounds like I just go buy a front blade, but even that wouldn't allow me to angle the blade. Might be a better deal to get my F-250 setup with a plow.

 

[ToadHill]

It's an old truck plow with a manual angle attachment. All I did was cut 2 holes in the back of the bucket that the plow horns go thru and are pinned in the back of the bucket. A chain attaches from the plow to the bucket hook to keep it from falling forward. It can attach in less than 5 minutes.

When I'm done for the season I take it off and use 4 pieces of steel with a 5/8" bolt thru the middle and sandwich the hole between the 2 pieces of steel.

 

[SkywagonRanch]

Its funny, I'm sitting here watching 10 more inches pile up wishing I had a blade. Looks like I'll be using the FEL on this storm.