B7100 Front drive shaft question

[KJINTF]

Hi guys

Looking for some help regarding the function / operation of the drive shaft cover. Take a look at the picture item#10 is a metal pipe that covers the shaft held in place by a rubber boot item #20.

I heard strange noises and took a look see
The rubber boot was destroyed, the oil seal item #50 was stuck on the shaft, my guess it stuck and transfered the drive shaft rotation to the rubber boot.

Question
Is that really the way is was designed to operate - have the brass ring within the oil seal rotate on the shaft without any real bearings?
Not impressed with that design if it is indeed the case

 

[brain55]

The brass ring stays with the seal and the shaft rotates inside of the ring. Whether you are impressed or not, the design has worked relatively trouble free for decades. Rubber parts fail eventually and will need to be replaced. Make sure you use some emery cloth on the shaft where it rotates in the brass ring so it has a nice smooth surface with no rust.

Brian

 

[KJINTF]

Thanks

I should not have made such a negative comment - I love my tractor
It has worked for 19 years trouble free

I believe it was the brass ring that stuck to the shaft causing the rubber parts to fail. What the heck after many years of trouble free operation a few repairs are in order.

The only other iusse is the locking rear differential no longer being functional.

I believe the clutch inside trhe differential is defective - am I guess correctly? When I press down on the lever I hear continous clunking that never engages

 

[brain55]

On the driveshaft, what likely happened, was that when the rubber boot failed the cover rode up to where the brass ring got stuck on the rusted exposed part of the shaft.

As far as the differential lock. There is no clutch, just some steel pins that engage into some matching holes when you press the pedal down. It sounds like the pins are broken. Possibly somebody didn't have the diff lock all the way engaged and the machine got enough traction on one side to either shear what was engaged or buggered the holes so the pins can't engage, or the pedal was pushed down with one tire still spinning. It really is pretty tough to say exactly what might have happened. You can pull the 3-pt cover off and look inside to see what the problem is.

Brian

 

[KJINTF]

Thanks again
The help is greatly appreciated
Plan on taking it apart next week
I assumed it was a clutch of some sort when I saw the part description
of Item #200 "66611-15130 CLUTCH DIFF, LOCK
That somebody had to have been me
I purchased the machine new in 1993 and no one else has ever used it

Either way on the front drive shaft - been good for 19 yerars can not complain - Will pick up the parts next week

 

[brain55]

Sorry, I had the wrong model in mind. I have a hard time keeping them all straight anymore. You won't be able to see what is going on under the 3-pt cover on that model. You'll have to pull off the axle housing on the side with the diff lock. I'm not really sure what the problem may be with that style diff lock. There isn't much to go wrong there.

Brian

 

[KJINTF]

You have done way better than I can
I have a hard time trying to keep my two Kubotas models straight
Picked up a ZD326 a few months back WOW I am impressed
The 26hp engine looks the same as the B7100 18hp engine
However the preformance is vastly different