B3200 Hydraulic adjustment?

[kuboman]

Has anyone adjusted the loader relief on these tractors or any B for that matter. I cannot find any reference as to what the pressure change is per shim.
Does anyone know or have experience with this adjustment?

 

[Ductape]

Have you put a guage on it yet? You won't want to mess with it if it's set properly from the factory.

 

[kuboman]

Have you put a guage on it yet? You won't want to mess with it if it's set properly from the factory.

I am in the process of putting together a pressure gauge. I wanted to gather some info first. I have read on TBN of adjustments to L series but nothing about B series. The service manual is not real helpful so hopefully someone has done a modern B that can give me a guide line.

 

[jnyost]

Can't wait to hear the feedback on this. I'm disappointed at the weight I can pick up with my FEL.

 

[kuboman]

Can't wait to hear the feedback on this. I'm disappointed at the weight I can pick up with my FEL.

What loader do you have?
I did my test and the tractor is putting out right at the top end of spec(darn)
I am going to add a shim and try it. I should be alright up to 2500 psi which is 300 over. If I can't notice any improvement I will put it back to factory specs.

 

[JJZ 109]

What loader do you have?
I did my test and the tractor is putting out right at the top end of spec(darn)
I am going to add a shim and try it. I should be alright up to 2500 psi which is 300 over. If I can't notice any improvement I will put it back to factory specs. I have read on TBN of adjustments to L series but nothing about B series. The service manual is not real helpful so hopefully someone has done a modern B that can give me a guide line.

I had some questions on this and posted on another thread awhile back. My B3030/LA403 showed me 2500 on the gauge, which was well over the 2204 - 2306 psi relief valve settings shown in my shop manual.
This reading was with an untampered relief valve. The tractor came to me brand new in Feb. 2009 that way. So I decided not to mess with it.
If you do get yourself a gauge, keep in mind that fluid temperature and engine speed come into play. My book says 50º C (122º F) for oil temp and engine running at rated speed to check the pressure.
If your B is like my B3030, there is a large hex fitting (manual calls it a plug) just ahead of the right side lift arm. All of the relief valve guts (shims, valve seat, poppet, spring, etc.) are in there.
Hope that helps you out a little.

 

[kuboman]

Well I did get my gauge set up and checked the pressure. With 80*F oil it was at 2200 psi which is right at spec. So I bumped 200 psi and there was a noticeable increase in lift so I put it up to 2500 psi and noticed some more loader lift. I will leave it there for a while.
I will go on the assumption that if I had 120* oil that the pressure would be less because of less viscosity. I will check again if I can work it hard enough to get the oil warmed up to what Kubota recommends to check it at.

 

[bstrom]

I was wondering if you could show a picture of your gauge and even the plug, shims, etc. No big deal, if you are done and don't want to bother but I was interested in this procedure at one point to try and get just a bit more lift out of my 364 loader.

 

[kuboman]

I was wondering if you could show a picture of your gauge and even the plug, shims, etc. No big deal, if you are done and don't want to bother but I was interested in this procedure at one point to try and get just a bit more lift out of my 364 loader.

I will post a pic of the gauge. As for the shims I used them all. All you get from Kubota is a thin shim that would be about 16-17mm in diameter. I used three of them. Each one is .4mm thick. A washer of the same dimensions would work just fine. The plug is behind the hydraulic filter on the loader control valve. When you are sitting on the seat it is below your right arm just ahead of the axle and just behind the H filter. It points down and back. It takes a 22 mm socket. There is a rubber hose you need to push out of the way to get the socket on. Just unscrew it until it is loose. You will lose about 1/3 cup of oil. Carefully pull the assembly out. Once you have it all out place on a clean bench and you can take it all apart. Very simple just memorize how it goes. The shims are under the plug end. You may need a magnet to pull them all out. Mine had several washers plus about 2 shims. Just add them there and put back together the way it came apart.
I will go and take some pictures now and try and post.

In the first picture is the gauge. Just a 0-3500psi gauge screwed into the back of a quick coupler. Make sure the coupler you get will fit your loader ports.
The second picture is taken from the back. You can just see the white filter. The loader valve is directly behind the filter tilted ahead at the top.
Third is taken from behind and below. The plug is hidden behind the rubber hose the bends around just at the top of the filter.
You can either take the tire off and it is real easy to access or run the rear wheels up on car ramps and roll under to get at it. Once you get under it will be obvious as to where the plug is. Having the filter there makes it more difficult so if you are planning an oil and filter change then that would be the time, but it is not difficult the way it is.
Good luck, let us know how it goes. Be cautious as to how much you boost the pressure.

 

[bstrom]

Hey, thanks so much for that information. I'd like to just get a couple hundred more lbso lift to move some rocks I can almost pickup now. With my loaded tires and weight box on I never pick up a rear tire anymore so I'm thinking I can do it safely with just a little more oomph. Seems fairly straight forward, thanks again.