B3000 loader hydraulic fittings will not attach?

[TheWeis]

Have never had this problem on a kubota.

When trying to reinstall my FEL today (loader has sat for about 2 months on its stands) white and yellow QD fittings will not install. I think white/yellow are main pistons, blue/red are bucket tilt. Tilt works fine when tractor is running, grapple also fine.

Tractor side "bayonets" retract properly, the FEL side "bayonets" will not budge. I don't want to get out the punch and hammer unless that's something you guys recommend... They are clean and not corroded. Tractor and FEL are about 5 months old.

I have released all the pressure in the tractor as per normal by moving the FEL lever around etc. I don't think that's the issue because the problem is on the FEL QD side.

I have looked all over to find some sort of pressure relief others lines, but there is nothing but hard fittings and these two QDs. There is minimal pressure on these pistons, just the normal weight of the upper FEL arms.

Any advice appreciated, I need to move some downed trees and I'm running out of daylight! I have to get these lines attached, but before I force the bayonets, I am hoping for any quick hints or tips...if the pressure in there is high enough to force these so tight, that could blow out if I tap them out with a punch or something.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[UWAdventurer]

I just had a problem with the male couplers on my back hoe and I had to take a hammer and tap the ends of the male fittings to loosen then. Don't hit them too hard, just enough to get them to operate. I put some spray lube on my female couplers to help them function, but they were not stuck anyway. Made mine work thanks to the guys on here. Good luck.

 

[Ductape]

If you are going to tap on the centers with a hammer, I recommend using a wooden dowel or block so you can't damage the fitting.

 

[UWAdventurer]

Yes, I forgot to mention, I put a thick rag over mine and tapped them. Thanks Ductape.

 

[TheWeis]

Ok, will go try that, and report back!

 

[J_J]

Whenever the temp increases, the pressure builds in that closed circuit, and has to be released somehow.

Quickest way is to push the male QD with a rag around it against a hard object like the frame or whatever.

Another way is to take a brass rod or something similar and put a rag around the rod and tap it with a hammer.

Last resort is to loosen or remove the QD.

Use safety glasses, you never know which way the fluid will go.

If the temp decreases, the circuit will probably suck in air to replace the fluid that has decreased.

The sealing ball in the QD is designed to push out by spring pressure, and seal the circuit, and when the fluid temp increases, the pressure increases.

 

[like2wheel]

Whenever the temp increases, the pressure builds in that closed circuit, and has to be released somehow.

Quickest way is to push the male QD with a rag around it against a hard object like the frame or whatever.

Another way is to take a brass rod or something similar and put a rag around the rod and tap it with a hammer.

Last resort is to loosen or remove the QD.

Use safety glasses, you never know which way the fluid will go.

If the temp decreases, the circuit will probably suck in air to replace the fluid that has decreased.

The sealing ball in the QD is designed to push out by spring pressure, and seal the circuit, and when the fluid temp increases, the pressure increases.

This, except I suspect he has the female QD's on the fel side. You need to relieve the pressure in the females by knocking off the seats inside. Need a rag here too, and a punch with a tap from a hammer. A smooth punch works best, I once used a bolt, & the threads damaged the o-ring inside the QD.

 

[TheWeis]

It worked, thanks guys.
It took a good three or four smart taps on one of the fittings and each time a bunch of fluid sprayed out under obvious pressure.

definitely good advice to use a rag!

 

[archerynut]

I had to do the same thing on a Massey Ferguson BH and FEL. I learned about the rag after the first time.