B2x20 with Woods Snowblower

[MattEffinCameron]

prior to buying my tractor a couple years ago, and the blower last year this seemed like a pretty common setup so I am hoping someone will know this off the top of their head.

Was there any shaft length modification required to use the woods [rear] snowblower (mine is a 64" if that matters) on the B? I am also using the woods quickhitch which spaces the blower out a little more. It looks like it should be a perfect fit, but I am having a **** of a time trying to get the shaft connected to the blower (cleaned all the grease and grime off and sprayed everything with WD40 to see if that would help) and when I got that end to where I think it is on all the way, I am just short on having enough space to swing the shaft in line and attach the other end to the tractor.

I feel like im answering my question as I ask it....I should just take a few inches off the shaft...cant hurt right?

Also, if anyone has this setup can you post of a pic of what the shaft<>blower connection looks like? The button you push to slide it on is only popping out like halfway which makes me wonder if it is on all the way.

 

[robertm]

Tell tale problems with shaft length would be if you can't connect it AFTER the blower is hooked up at the lower and third link. When connected in the down position, you will likely have 1" to 1-1/2" between the coupler and the end of the tractor output shaft. That said, id still check shaft length in full up and down positions. Are you sure the shaft and coupler are the same splining?

 

[MattEffinCameron]

thanks for the response. unbelievable how much time this sucked up today...the end that goes on the blower definitely fits but its just an absolute @*#&$ to get on there. Once I finally got it on it looked good, the pin popped out indicating it was locked into position and all was good.

I also studied the manual a little and based on their instructions took some measurements and I definitely need to shorten the driveline. Going to work on that this week.

One thing I was wondering, which the manual WONT say is...does it matter if you cut the shaft say and inch or two shorter than you need it? The measurements I took today on cutting shaft length put me at about 1-1/4/1-1/2" needing to come off. I am just thinking maybe I take off 2-3" since when I took my measurements the blower was resting on the ground (not the shortest shaft position, but not far from it). If I undercut the shaft by even 1/4", I am going to wind up putting pressure on the PTO or on the gearbox on the blower which would be bad....but if I over cut it by as much as say 3" (3" over not total) it has no impact since there will still be a solid 24+" of overlap between the two shaft pieces so it will run perfectly. I am thinking of this in context also of my mid pto for my mower deck...there is tons of play in that.

Only downside to cutting it extra short would be if I ever tried to use it on a much bigger tractor or on an implement that needed a much longer shaft right?

thoughts?

 

[robertm]

I just cut mine last week. Mind you I bought my blower for my last B2620, was told 3x to NOT cut it by the dealer, and on the second season on the first snow I could use it, I bent the gearbox support and messed the thing up because it WAS too long. After the dealer looked at it, they admitted mistake, and fixed it FOC. I never got enough snow in 2years to use it once. Sold the B2620, and knew I'd not take the chance with my BX2670.
I pulled off the plastic guards on the shaft, pulled them apart, and connected then to their respective shafts. I raised the blower and lowered it noting how much the shafts needed to be cut to prevent hitting the universal joint. Then I subtracted another inch. Before cutting, united that in all positions, my shafts were ALWAYS lapped at least the minimum noted in the manual, but actually 2 more inches than the minimum. I cut both shafts then cut the recommended amount off the plastic guards, and put it together. No problems except the coupler issues I have because my coupler is a bastard type with large lobes that hit the lower lift arm stabilizer bolts (posted on this site elsewhere).
I suppose you can cut the shaft all the way to the minimum lap noted in the manual, but I believe the more lap the less likely vibration will set in.

 

[JWR]

Very common dilemma. I think if you are sure there is at least 2 or 3 inches of overlap in the inner/outer driveshafts you will be fine. If there is just that much "least overlap" then you will not have to worry about inadvertent forcing them together and bending something due to motion of the implement or tractor. Also no worry they will come apart while turning (which is your worst nightmare of course.) That overlap should be checked over the full range of lowering and pick up of the 3pt. I tend to cut only one of the shafts, not both. Just less work/nuisance. You seem to already know all the main things and I'm sure you'll get it right.

 

[robertm]

Just be sure that I think Kubota says 5" lap for Cat 1 and 7 for Cat 2. I think 2" to 3" is to little in all cases. My opinion there, though.

 

[JWR]

Just be sure that I think Kubota says 5" lap for Cat 1 and 7 for Cat 2. I think 2" to 3" is to little in all cases. My opinion there, though.

You are probably right & "at least 2 to 3 inches" probably is cutting it too short. I've had cantakerous little short drive shafts on a 40" tiller for my BX2200 where the acceptable range was very narrow -- between being too long and binding/pushing the U-joints and too short that can fall off and wreak havoc. I have a 3pt boom cutter with a very short drive shaft and it has a fairly narrow range of acceptable length too. The other extreme is the 7ft bush hog with a drive shaft twice or even 3X as long as the other two examples. Much more overlap is fine, 8"to 10" and no conflict on the bush hog. The snow blower seems to be somewhere in between those extremes.