b1700
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- kubota b1700
Have you done a real good bleed?(of air):laughing:
what would be the best way to do this?
Not sure about your mechanical savy but if you installed the IP you must be alright.
Find the main fuel line from the fuel tank and follow it to the fuel filter, make sure you have fuel there and no air, next follow it to the IP and make sure you have fuel there. It should have a bleed screw or bolt, loosen it and make sure there is fuel. Next loosen the injector lines at the injectors and at this point crank the engine till you get fuel coming from the lines. Once you have that with no air tighten the lines and crank the engine again and it should start. If after all this it does not start check to see if you are getting smoke out the exhaust. No smoke, still have air, smoke you have other issues like timing or something else.
If you understand the concept that you can not have any air in the system you will be fine.:thumbsup:
Let me know how you do.
work for case& caseih dealer for 30 years
just retierd to work on my farm.
i've done all of what you posted. we bought this tractor used
so dont know much about it .smoke's and try's to start .we try a little
either and it dosent help.it's really got me puzzled.
just retierd to work on my farm.
i've done all of what you posted. we bought this tractor used
so dont know much about it .smoke's and try's to start .we try a little
either and it dosent help.it's really got me puzzled.
If it smokes then it is getting fuel. Be very careful with the ether with these little engines. Real easy to cause damage. Are you sure the glo-plugs are working. If the gp are working and it is getting fuel then the only reasons I can see it won't run is either poor compression or the timing is out. I have seen timing out by 180* after a IP reinstall. I have never done a Kubota but have done many farm tractors and it is easy to get it wrong.
i agree on what you said.
it use to run and start very good.it just got harder to startand the last2 month or so.engine has never ben tore down .the only time you do on the pump.when you remve you pump install same amount of shim's under your
pumpthat you have move from pump. pump shop man said that is how it is time.ive install this kind of pump on ford and caseih tractor.knock on wood
they all work .i must be over looking someting.i am going to find a cyl tester
and check my cyl. thank's john
it use to run and start very good.it just got harder to startand the last2 month or so.engine has never ben tore down .the only time you do on the pump.when you remve you pump install same amount of shim's under your
pumpthat you have move from pump. pump shop man said that is how it is time.ive install this kind of pump on ford and caseih tractor.knock on wood
they all work .i must be over looking someting.i am going to find a cyl tester
and check my cyl. thank's john
You are correct, my mistake. I was thinking of the pumps on the larger tractors where you remove the hole deal with the gear and everything. They are easy to get out of time.
My guess is you have poor compression but it still seems a little odd that you can't coax it to run. A compression test will tell.
I had a little Yanmar that was real hard starting and I knew the compression was down a bit but every once in a while it would fire right up. Checked the gp's and they were ok but it turned out that the gp controller was intermittent and the gp's were only working part time. I did not discover that until I wired the gp's right to the battery.
Anyhow, good luck, you seem to know what you are doing. Keeps us all up to date.
charleyfarmall
Platinum Member
The B1700 will not start unless the glow plugs are pre heated, which I am sure you know. You may have a bad glow plug or the whole circuit may not be working. Also, When I put a new pump in mine, it took a lot of cranking with the lines cracked and the compression release open to completely clear the lines. I could get smoke but still not start it then too.