Oil & Fuel Attn Dave's Tractor: Changing Fuel Filter - 3510i

[Lunk]

I know this has probably been covered, but the Search fuction is not working for me today...

I've completed the 100 hr service, and am ready to replace the fuel filter element, but have a couple questions. The owner's manual was pretty vague on this (surprise!), and I want to do it right.

It appears that I have to shut off the fuel valve, and unscrew the plastic filter housing from the filter assembly (lefty loosy, I hope...), and then replace the element and screw the filter housing back on.

The questions I have relate to purging air from the fuel system. According to the manual, you simply give it full throttle, and crank it for 10 seconds or so, and voila! All air is purged. Is this the correct procedure?

I normally start my tractor in cold weather with the throttle set to 1500 RPM. I do not want to harm anything using full throttle.

Thanks for any / all assistance offered,

Lunk

 

[ToadHill]

I found the easiest way is to shut off the fuel valve, unscrew the plastic housing and replace the filter.

Next put the housing back on but very loosley and open the valve letting the fuel fill the bowl. Then tighten the bowl back up while the fuel is overflowing. It's a bit messey but it keeps air from getting into the system.

 

[Reg]

What Toad Hill said (-:

I might as well admit it, I don't bother.
There always seems to be enough fuel left beyond the filter for it to start and whatever air is in there gets out somewhere/somehow.
I find it hard to believe that running the injector pump "dry" for a few revs would actually hurt anything.
Heck if there is no fuel going through it then it won't fire up anyway - but it does, so I think all is well.

 

[DavesTractor]

I know this has probably been covered, but the Search fuction is not working for me today...

I've completed the 100 hr service, and am ready to replace the fuel filter element, but have a couple questions. The owner's manual was pretty vague on this (surprise!), and I want to do it right.

It appears that I have to shut off the fuel valve, and unscrew the plastic filter housing from the filter assembly (lefty loosy, I hope...), and then replace the element and screw the filter housing back on.

The questions I have relate to purging air from the fuel system. According to the manual, you simply give it full throttle, and crank it for 10 seconds or so, and voila! All air is purged. Is this the correct procedure?

I normally start my tractor in cold weather with the throttle set to 1500 RPM. I do not want to harm anything using full throttle.

Thanks for any / all assistance offered,

Lunk

There are two phillips head screws to allow for purging the air after the new filter is installed, they are right above the ring you unscrew to take out the filter. Sometimes the ring is really tight the first time it is removed and a big pair of channel lock pliers is handy. Then just reinstall it hand tight and purge. Many tractor manuals suggest starting tractors at full throttle, but I never do that, doesn't make sense to me.

It is true that you can sometimes crank the engine enough to purge the air (on some tractors), but who wants to crank on the starter when a little 30 second bleed job is so easy. Leaving the ring loose as mentioned to purge also works fine, but I use the purge screws, just the way I learned.

By the way, the inlet and outlet fittings (where the hoses attach) on these filter assemblies are just pressed in, later ones have epoxy. If you happen to loosen the fitting by horsing around with a really tight ring nut, just epoxy it back in and you are as good as new, or better perhaps.

 

[Lunk]

Thanks for the replies fellas.

I'm feeling better about this now.

I'll let you know how it goes when I'm done. I hope I can get the darn ring nut off without any issues...If it's anything like removing the oil filter on a car the first time - Yikes!

Twice I've had to destroy the oil filter when doing the first oil change (my crown vic, and son's Jetta). Both times the filters were tightened way beyond normal specs. Same thing for drain plugs. I swear that if I tried to tighten a drain plug as tight as I've found them from the factory - I'd strip them out every time! You should not have to use a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen a drain plug!

What's up with that?

Thanks again - Rant over.

Lunk

 

[Reg]

Thanks for the replies fellas.

I'm feeling better about this now.

I'll let you know how it goes when I'm done. I hope I can get the darn ring nut off without any issues...If it's anything like removing the oil filter on a car the first time - Yikes!

Twice I've had to destroy the oil filter when doing the first oil change (my crown vic, and son's Jetta). Both times the filters were tightened way beyond normal specs. Same thing for drain plugs. I swear that if I tried to tighten a drain plug as tight as I've found them from the factory - I'd strip them out every time! You should not have to use a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen a drain plug!

What's up with that?

Thanks again - Rant over.

Lunk

I hesitate to say this, but it MIGHT be worth taking the loader off first, just for the first time.

If you get into it with the loader still on and can't quite get those slip joint pliers in there quite right the potential disaster is that they will slip at some point and you could find a fuel fitting separated from the filter head - lost knuckle skin too, but that is par or bogey anyway.
COULD happen, not saying it is even likely to happen, just that it would be easier to get a good and straight grip on it the first time without the loader in the way.
After that, a little oil or grease on the threads and firm hand tightening only, you probably won't need the slip joint guys again for it.

I don't think they're overtightened at the factory as much as they are assembled dry, or maybe damp and there is a bit of surface corrosion that has to be broken.
Hence the SUDDEN movement that can lead to broken bits and lost knuckle skin if you don't have a good grip and good position to stop the movement as soon as it starts to give.

 

[Lunk]

I hesitate to say this, but it MIGHT be worth taking the loader off first, just for the first time.

If you get into it with the loader still on and can't quite get those slip joint pliers in there quite right the potential disaster is that they will slip at some point and you could find a fuel fitting separated from the filter head - lost knuckle skin too, but that is par or bogey anyway.
COULD happen, not saying it is even likely to happen, just that it would be easier to get a good and straight grip on it the first time without the loader in the way.
After that, a little oil or grease on the threads and firm hand tightening only, you probably won't need the slip joint guys again for it.

I don't think they're overtightened at the factory as much as they are assembled dry, or maybe damp and there is a bit of surface corrosion that has to be broken.
Hence the SUDDEN movement that can lead to broken bits and lost knuckle skin if you don't have a good grip and good position to stop the movement as soon as it starts to give.

Thanks for the heads-up.

I'll have to see how everything fits, and if the loader needs to come off - So be it.

I truly appreciate all the help, which is why I posted here, rather in parts/repairs, or a more general forum. It seems that there's always a Dealer, or an owner of Brand X that feels the need to chime in with a "if you'd bought a quality Brand X unit, it'd be easy as pie - no questions needed" type comment.

I don't even know if Dave's Tractor sells Branson anymore, because his posts tend to focus on helping answer the question, rather than pitching what he's selling... I like that.

My .02

Lunk

 

[DavesTractor]

I truly appreciate all the help, which is why I posted here, rather in parts/repairs, or a more general forum. It seems that there's always a Dealer, or an owner of Brand X that feels the need to chime in with a "if you'd bought a quality Brand X unit, it'd be easy as pie - no questions needed" type comment.

I don't even know if Dave's Tractor sells Branson anymore, because his posts tend to focus on helping answer the question, rather than pitching what he's selling... I like that.

My .02

Lunk

We are still a Branson dealer, and Mahindra as well. I feel that as a member of TBN, I need to contribute to and learn from others as my focus, not on pitching a brand....although I'm not above trying to sell something every once in a while!

I so agree with you regarding the Brand X issue. All it takes is something like "I ran over a nail with my Branson" and someone will say "should have bought a John Deere, had one for 40 years and never had a flat." Dumb stuff like that. I will say that this is the best moderated board I have seen and there are only a few guys with personal agendas and they soon make it clear enough to diminish their credibility.

 

[52wej]

Dave I want to say thanks for all of your support for folks all these years. I know I have been reading your posts for at least 6 years and they helped my decision to buy a 2535 Century 5 years ago. I agree for the first time removing the loader would help. I actually had to remove the whole filter assembly the first time on mine beacuse it was so tight. But that was only one bolts and two fuel lines. The bleed screws do work well. Good Luck Willie Jones

 

[Lunk]

Success!

It came off with no trouble at all - I used a wide mouth vise grip and had no trouble with the loader being in the way either.

Thanks for all the assistance!

Lunk