Are there kits to raise 3-point lift arm connection points?

[bobmart]

I have a L3800 Kubota and wish to purchase a used rigid shank cultivator, Model 13-1 made by Dearborn for Ford tractors. However, the holes for the pins for the lift arms are 24 inches above ground, and my highest "up" position on the Kubota 3-point hitch is 27.5 inches above ground. The Chisel points would only be 3.5 inches above ground, not enough clearance to go up the ramp on my 16-foot bobtail car hauler trailer or my PJ dump trailer. Does someone make a riser attachment for the linkage on 3-point hitches, or is there another solution? I love that old cultivator, but can't buy it if I can't get the tractor on and off the trailers. I've only got 100 hours experience but have gotten good feedback from recent custom tractor work clients.

 

[Catchad81]

I have a L3800 Kubota and wish to purchase a used rigid shank cultivator, Model 13-1 made by Dearborn for Ford tractors. However, the holes for the pins for the lift arms are 24 inches above ground, and my highest "up" position on the Kubota 3-point hitch is 27.5 inches above ground. The Chisel points would only be 3.5 inches above ground, not enough clearance to go up the ramp on by 16-foot bobtail car hauler trailer or my PJ dump trailer. Does someone make a riser attachment for the linkage on 3-point hitches, or is there another solution? I love that old cultivator, but can't buy it if I can't get the tractor on and off the trailers. I've only got 100 hours experience but have gotten good feedback from recent custom tractor work clients.

I had similar problems with my MX5100 and various implements. Kubota's range of motion in the lift arms are not as wide as other brands, such as Deere even in the bigger tractors like my M7060. Anyway, behind the MX, it would pick up a 3 point disk harrow high enough to even turn in some cases much less go in and out of low areas. I looked at options of trying to modify the lift arms on the tractor, but trying to get them to come up higher would cause them to hit others components on the tractor (axle or diff housings). Another option was to get longer arms, which will make the range of motion wider and the up height taller, but also moves the implement further back. I ended up modifying the pins on the disk, moving them down lower so that it would be lifted higher in the air when behind the tractor.

 

[Foodplot]

I put these (http://carterandsonsllc.com/) on my L3400 to make connecting implements easier, as it doesn't have telescoping links. Raising the connection height was a bonus. Also, for tall implements on my short tractor, I have a hydraulic top link, which lets me tilt the top of the implement quite a ways towards the tractor. Makes trailering easier.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Have you tried putting the top link in the bottom pin location on the tractor? This should get you several inches for transport height. Or get a hydraulic top link as mentioned in post #3 and all these height issues usually go away. :thumbsup:

 

[bobmart]

Until you posted and I looked at the tractor again I didn't realize there were top and bottom pin locations for the top link. Its currently in the bottom pin location. I really am a newbie, but challenging yourself and taking on new assignments is the way you learn.

 

[jeff9366]

1. The STIRRUPS at the foot of the LIFTING RODS have two pin adjustments, HIGHER/LOWER. When the Lower Links are pinned higher in the stirrups you will have more lift. (Lower is the default position.)

2. You can move right and left LIFTING RODS in along the Lower Links to alternate holes closer to the tractor. You will lift higher but have less weight lift capacity. (Out is the default position.)

MTVIEWRANCH's solution is easier, if it gives you enough lift.

These adjustment features are all part of Harry Ferguson's original design for the tractor Three Point Hitch, circa 1936.

Adjustments were to fit different plows with varying plow depth parameters, to more than a single tractor.


TBN ARCHIVE LINK: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/264107-lower-link-arm-adjustment.html

 

[pmsmechanic]

I was given a John Deere 506 mower ( I know lucky me) I couldn't lift it high enough to suit me so I just did what an earlier poster did. I drilled new holes in the mower brackets and lowered the bottom pins. I can easily lift it high enough now. Good Luck

 

[bobmart]

1. The STIRRUPS at the foot of the LIFTING RODS have two pin adjustments, HIGHER/LOWER. When the Lower Links are pinned higher in the stirrups you will have more lift. (Lower is the default position.)

2. You can move right and left LIFTING RODS in along the Lower Links to alternate holes closer to the tractor. You will lift higher but have less weight lift capacity. (Out is the default position.)

MTVIEWRANCH's solution is easier, if it gives you enough lift.

These adjustment features are all part of Harry Ferguson's original design for the tractor Three Point Hitch, circa 1936.

Adjustments were to fit different plows with varying plow depth parameters, to more than a single tractor.


TBN ARCHIVE LINK: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/264107-lower-link-arm-adjustment.html

Thanks for the help. I found the stirrups on the lift arms and the closer in and further out holes. I will measure top and bottom travel positions in both hole positions with my box blade attached tomorrow morning. This forum is great. While I like the old Dearborn rigid cultivator, a lot of my motivation for buying it is due to the difficulty of attaching my Landpride PTO driven rototiller. It does a great job but is a real ***** to attach.

 

[bobmart]

Thanks for the help. I would have to weld on lower arm extensions, but its do-able.

 

[Leejohn]

I would work more on getting the hang of hooking up the rototiller, each time you hook it up the next time is easier.What is so hard about hooking it up?