Anyone use an electric plow pump on their loader-mounted plow setup?

[deezler]

Hi all,

I am kind of a newb when it comes to hydraulics and snow plow technology, so bear with me here.

A friend of mine just picked up a worn out jeep that came with a Meyer snow plow and the e47 electric pump / lift cylinder. He is parting out the jeep and has no use for the plow setup, might offer me a good price on it. I am intrigued about the possibility of setting up a FEL mounted plow for my long driveway. I don't have a quick attach loader/bucket, but I wouldn't mind going to the trouble of swapping pins to mount a plow frame during the snowiest months.

My question is this: has anyone ever used an electric hydraulic pump for their FEL plow setup, for the angle cylinders? From my searching is seems like everyone uses the tractors hydraulics for the angle cylinders, off a rear remote, usually. I know this is probably the best solution, but my tractor has no remotes currently, and that seems like a pricey option to include in this venture.

So I was pondering just wiring up the electric pump and switches, and use that for the angle cylinders (provided I can figure out how to get a mounting system welded up). However it seems like the Meyer e47 draws a TON of amps. Like 150, or something nutty like that. My lil' tractor only has a 40 amp alternator and smallish battery - could it handle an electric plow pump?

(Sidebar: does the pump only run when you lift or angle the plow, or does it run continuously?)

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Katahdin]

Yes, I run my Boss plow on my Yanmar LX with its original electric pump and controls and it works great. Part of my reasoning was like yours, but I also wanted to keep the plow original in case I wanted to sell it or use it on my GMC 1/2 ton.

In any event, to keep up with the electrical demands I removed the original tractor battery and swapped in an optima red top that fit in nicely. To offset the risk that the 40 amp alternator could not keep up with the charging, I plug the battery into a trickle charger/battery maintainer when the tractor is not in use. That ensures you have a topped of battery when you start the tractor on a cold stormy morning. We had a pretty brutal last winter and I had no problems with the electrical system. Note, running your tractor at higher rpms while plowing will also help the alternator keep up with the charging.

Sidebar: the pump only runs when you angle the plow. In most plow wiring setups you will have a solenoid between the plow pump and the battery. The pump only operates when your controls activate that solenoid. From what I know about Meyer plows it should have a solenoid for the plow pump.

 

[Smokey1]

I use the boat battery, in a battery box on the "A" frame. Only needs a charge 1-2 times a winter.

 

[PILOON]

I maintained drives using an electric powered plow mounted on a truck that had about a 70 amp alternator and good battery.
More than once I had to walk home as the power drain is awesome. Usually that was night plowing with those extra needed lights.

Use your tractor hydraulics if at all possible!

 

[wolfpack2]

If you have the complete setup from the Jeep, have you considered modifying it and mounting it directly to the tractor instead of the loader. If your loader is a quick attach style and can be easily removed, this would allow you to use the loader hydraulics for the plow or the electronics. If you need to the loader, it might be quicker and easier to just drop the blade and reattach the loader than pining the bucket on and off. Also, having the blade closer to the front of the tractor makes it more maneuverable and more controllable as the blade has less leverage on the steering axle.

 

[Katahdin]

I maintained drives using an electric powered plow mounted on a truck that had about a 70 amp alternator and good battery.
More than once I had to walk home as the power drain is awesome. Usually that was night plowing with those extra needed lights.

Use your tractor hydraulics if at all possible!

Keep in perspective a plow truck's electrical needs are a lot different, especially if it has a gasoline engine. Assuming that's the case here, your truck would need to be running near red line, say 5,000 rpm, to be putting out the 70amps the alternator is rated for.

It would be very difficult to draw enough power to shut down the diesel engine on a tractor because it only needs fuel to stay running. A 9volt battery should be enough power to keep the fuel-shut-off-solenoid open (if the engine has one), and if the fuel line stays primed it may not even need a tank pump running.

 

[deezler]

Awesome replies, as always from this site. Thanks guys!

So it seems like this is easily possible, but:
1) should make sure battery and charging system is in top shape, keep trickle charged, maybe an new or extra battery
2) A good (big) deep cycle battery could probably power this thing on its own for a couple months, then recharge in the garage.
3) Could consider detaching the loader and mounting the whole setup to the tractor frame instead (hmmmmm.....?)

If I do end up pursuing this idea, I need to keep the fabrication as simple as possible. I would be depending on assistance for all the welding....

Thanks again, will consider all the suggestions.

 

[LD1]

It will eventually take its tole on the battery and alternator. But that isnt unlike a truck. Couple that with running headlights, you may or may not have issues.

Most people ditch the electric pump, cause it is cheaper, easier, and more reliable to use the tractors hydraulics. Plow pumps can be finicky. Add the cost of a solenoid, heavy gauge wire to the pump, etc, and you can buy hydraulic hoses and adaptors to control the angle cylinders.

Both methods are going to cost money, and modifications involved. But you shouldnt have to modify anything on the plow, and can always go back to a truck mounted unit with either method.

But again, my advise is to ditch the pump unit.

 

[deezler]

Ok, duly noted, good advice.

So, if I take the loader off and fabricated a frame mount for the plow, I could easily use the loader joystick for the plow controls, right? Is it just a matter of running some new hydraulic hoses, or is there anything special I'd need to do?

 

[aczlan]

Ok, duly noted, good advice.

So, if I take the loader off and fabricated a frame mount for the plow, I could easily use the loader joystick for the plow controls, right? Is it just a matter of running some new hydraulic hoses, or is there anything special I'd need to do?

Just run hoses to the loader quick connects.

Aaron Z