Quick Hitches Any one have a Land Pride QH15 quick hitch

canoetrpr · Mar 27, 2006

I asked my dealer to order me a Worksaver cat 1 quick hitch and he said that he had the land pride one in stock and could make me a great deal on it.

Has any one tried the LP one - any problems with it? I've only heard good things about their other stuff so I'm inclined to go with it.

DDT · Mar 27, 2006

I have had one for over 6 years and over 4000hrs. If this one died I would get another. Works great still. I do drag a lot of 3 point equipment.

canoetrpr · Mar 28, 2006

The dealer threw one on my tractor for me to try.

The hitch is great. Unfortunately the top link does not fit my brand new kubota ballast box! The pin height is not the problem but the ballast box has a piece of steel for re-inforcement under the pins and the top hook is too big to fit to get under the pin.

Ah well! it was worth a shot. I'm not into trying to modify stuff to get this to work so I'll go either the Pat's route or pallets on castors as dollies.

For what its worth, the QH looks quite solidly built.

stuart · Mar 28, 2006

There are several quick hitches trhat offer an adjustable top link. Would that solve your problem?

canoetrpr · Mar 28, 2006

Nope the land pride one is adjustable as well.

Problem is that the top link hook is big and the the top link pin on the ballast box ha a piece of steel that is horizontal and below the top link pin. The space between the pin and this reinforcing piece of still is smaller than the size of the hook.

I imagine that for someone who knows how to weld this would not be a big deal - just cut away that piece of steel and move it a bit lower.

I think that this has convinced me that there are going to be enough implements out there that I will be getting off the tractor anyway to adjust the top link hook even if I get this problem fixed that I might as well go with a Pat's system or get dollies built. I just want to get away from having to move the heavy implement around to line it up. I don't mind getting off the tractor at all give the frequency at which I will be switching implements(very low).

Just want to save my back.

DDT · Mar 28, 2006

I can relate to your problem. I have a well stocked metal shop so I had to rebuild a few items. A hyd top link would do the trick. Shorten top link get bottom pins in place and extend top link and you should be there, slide top pin in place. I have to hook up my 65 gal sprayer this way. I have not had time to FIX it.

canoetrpr · Mar 31, 2006

After playing around with it for a little bit today I still have not decided whether I am going to return this QH or not.

If I did have a hydraulic top link that would be nice.... hmm.. wonder if the wife will buy that.

I don't know a thing about welding but it does not look to me like it is going to be a major job for someone who knows how to weld to cut into the piece of steel that is preventing my top hook from getting under the pin and adding a piece a bit further below for re-inforcement.

I took my wife's advice and didn't pour concrete in my ballast box so I can just unload the rocks, load the box in the van and take it down to a welding shop.

Advantages of keeping the LP QH vs. returning and going for a Pat's:

- It's here!
- It adds a bit of extra weight at the back.
- It saves me an hour trip to the dealer. I can replace that with a 5 min trip to the welder.

Disadvantage:

- I'm a little guy and it is actually not easy for me from the tractor seat to see if the bottom pins are lined up with the implement. Top of the QH blocks my view. I'll probably have to stand up just like the other little guys do.

Decisions decisions!

greg_g · Mar 31, 2006

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Unfortunately the top link does not fit my brand new kubota ballast box! The pin height is not the problem but the ballast box has a piece of steel for re-inforcement under the pins and the top hook is too big to fit to get under the pin. )</font>

Landpride sells a flexible toplink adapter to solve that problem. It's basically a pair of parallel bars with 3/4" hole on both ends. You pin one pair of holes and a spacer bushing to the implement, and the other pair to the toplink. Another version is their pivoting toplink adapter. It's in the shape of a U, but performs the same function as the parallel set - just no bushing required. If you keep the LandPride, one or the other is a must have option.

//greg//

canoetrpr · Apr 1, 2006

Ah.. I knew about the top link kit but thought that this was the kind of thing that was used only for implements that required floating top link - like a bush hog.

Sounds like using it will work just fine for my ballast box right? If I understand this correctly then I think I will just keep it and order the floating top lnk kit and not have to weld.

Turns out my woods mower can be re-configured to have a fixed top pin for ASAE CAT 1 QH compatibility. Very nice. Can't say how impressed I am with the woods stuff.

canoetrpr · Apr 1, 2006

Doh!... Don't I feel silly.

I was worried that hooking the floating top link to ballast box would somehow not be 'right' as the top pin was not being lifted.

Of course then I realized that the top link normally floats without a QH anyway!

Sounds like getting that floating top link kit will solve my problem nice and easy. I'll have to get off the tractor to potentially adjust the top link and hook up the pin but I'm not really too concerned about that. I've got a sum total of two implements right now anyway (and one is a ballast box!).

Of course this begs the question I'm asking myself - should I just stick to a Pat's then?