Anti-Seize on Brushcutter Blade pin

[Furu]

I thought this was the best place to put this question.

I was removing the cutting blades on my Woods BB-720 brushcutter and found it quite the challenge. They had not been off for 4 years. They are attached with a 1.5 inch steel pin that is locked in place with a key hole plate. To say the pins were tight is an understatement. I was thinking about putting anti-seize on the pins before I slide them into the sleeves but the bottle says that it is for threads.
Has anyone used anti-seize in this type of application or does anyone think that this is a bad idea since it is a tight smooth pin not a threaded screw application as the anti-seize is designed for.
The anti-seize I am considering is a copper based formula, there is also a nickle based formula, would it make a difference which is used?
Thanks

 

[RoyJackson]

Personally, I think anytime you use metal to metal fasteners, it's a good idea to use anti-seize as a barrier/preventative against corrosion.
As far as the copper based vs. nickel based, I believe one of (nickel) is used for high temperature applications. I have the copper based anti-seize and use it on everything.

 

[Baby Grand]

I had difficulty taking the pins off of my bb60. Had to use a 6ft pipe on my 3/4 drive wrench. I used this stuff when I reassembled them:

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm

It has worked really well for me on other bolted assemblies.
-Jim

 

[ModMech]

Keep in mind that *most* anti-sieze products are WATER SOLUABLE, to they will wash off the components when exposed to water.

Used motor oil is my friend for problems like this, an overnight soak before reassembly is usually adequate.