Another drainage question

[David Wayne]

Last spring I ran a tile up a hillside through an area where there is a spring with water coming to the surface. It dried up for a few months, then water came back and runs down the hill about 100'. Today I dug the wet spot back up and found my tile. I cut it in two expecting to find it full of sand but it was open and took all the water from the hole and all that kept coming in. this one area, about 10'-15' long is sand, silt ,& gravel, looks like bags of Quikrete. The stuff has sealed off the slots in the tile. I am likely going to have to re-lay it and back fill with #4 stone. Should I also put a drain sock on the tile? Or is there a better solution? The sandy area is under about a foot of regular dirt & has the consistency of quiksand I will try to get a pic of it tomorrow or monday. Thanks

 

[Streetcar]

In silty areas, I have dug a trench and lined it with nonwoven geofabric and added #57 stone and slotted drain tile. The trench has larger area for the slit to clog before it quits working.

 

[sailfast]

You need geotechnical spray foam.

 

[fishheadbob]

In a problem area like yours I have gone with the belt and suspenders approach. I did a 300' length with a filter sock tile, geotextile, and stone. Probably overkill, but I was dealing with clay and sand without much pitch. Two years in, so far, so good. Probably spent a few more dollars than necessary but I sure didn't want it to not work . I am pretty cheap but sometimes you have to spend a buck to save a buck.

 

[coralhead]

I've been working on draining some areas on my lower pasture on a hillside. The key is not putting your tile in the middle of the wetspot but rather uphill from it. You need to catch the water before it gets out of the ground with your ditch. I am digging down to the hardpan about 2' (sloping downhill) and putting in 4" perf pipe with a sock. Then 1.5" rock fill to about 8" from top then topsoil over fabric to top it off. Probably overkill on the rock but it is not going to fill in for a long time.

 

[David Wayne]

I've been working on draining some areas on my lower pasture on a hillside. The key is not putting your tile in the middle of the wetspot but rather uphill from it. You need to catch the water before it gets out of the ground with your ditch. I am digging down to the hardpan about 2' (sloping downhill) and putting in 4" perf pipe with a sock. Then 1.5" rock fill to about 8" from top then topsoil over fabric to top it off. Probably overkill on the rock but it is not going to fill in for a long time.

This is real close to what I am going to do. Met with the owner this morning, We are going to run a second tile up to the bottom side and go around the other side of the wet spot and across the top. Will use silt sock and gravel. It was still flowing water in from all directions, nice clean looking water,if I were thirsty I wouldnt be afraid to drink it.
Thanks for the replies.

 

[MNBobcat]

Lucky break for me I found this post! How do you guys run your tile? Do you dig a trench with an excavator? I've heard you can somehow use a laser to get the pitch right but I have no idea how its used. My project is so small I will likely have to do it myself (after I get my permit) as I don't think I'll be able to hire anyone. I'd like to know what I'm doing before I would start on it, though.

 

[Streetcar]

Installing drainage should have constant slope. A constant drop in elevation over a set length of pipe.
How long is your drainage run.
What equipment do you have to determine elevation of your trench
The laser for drainage installation can be set on a slope . The light should be a constant height from the bottom of the trench as you excavate